Henny

you sure that wasn't his hollow head?!? ;) :lol:

great shot! :D Yes, the bungs are available from VAG for about 10p each! 8)

yeah, there's a load of different types of LSD available... Different manufacturers allow different configurations, Trans-X, for example, have a system whereby you change one plate and that then changes the angles... Sling "LSD" + "ramp angle" into google and you'll get a whole shed load of info on it... 8)

The ramp angle is the angle that the worm gears inside the diff are cut to... Basically the steeper the angle the quicker the diff will lock up... I'm pretty certain that Quaifes are set at 45degree and Peloquins are set slightly steeper so lock up slightly sooner than the Quaife would... That all depends on what the gear ratios in the box are... :|

the parts you need are only available from VAG and cost a sodding fortune, so it's much cheaper to get hold of a good second hand VR6 box and get the parts taken out of that! 8) Personally, I'd be interested in looking into the MKIII 16V box route if I was going to be doing this again, as this'll probably work out quite a bit cheaper in the long run... Again, you'd want to chat to scruffy about it to work out what kinda ratios it has in it and how drivable it makes the car... 8)

The VR box IS cable change, but you can't use it with any other engine other than the VRs 'cos the bell housing is totally different, so it's a "strip both boxes and rebuild using the bits you need" job... :| The MKIII 16V box should just fit straight in, but you'd be better to ask Scruffy about that as I've not done that conversion (yet! ;) ) I've got the Quaife LSD in my box, and I know that PhatVR6 would recommend the Peloquin LSD which is basically identical, just American... :lol:

...and who didn't want to insure me 'cos there's too many modifications to my engine?..... :roll:

Yeah, right, Fatlad... Like you've room to talk about pie-eating! :lol: On the whole PVW / Golf+ / Maxpower/ Volksworld front, I go with the theory that I have no preferred magazine anymore.... Personally, rather than forking out nearly £4 per mag for a load of adverts I don't want to read, a load of articles on cars that don't always interest me and professional proof readers who don't spot blindingly obvious mistakes, I'd rather look at a couple of good forums to see what's going on where any mistakes are gently pointed out and corrected.... ;) Just as well I've found DUBFORCE.NET, OLDSKOOLDUBS.NET and, of course, THE Corrado Forum! 8)

I used to hammer a scredriver through the ones on my old 16V to get 'em undone... They're a little sod to undo sometimes... :|

feck, I wondered what was going on... :oops: I've edited the post above to have the correct figures in it... I was somewhat distracted when I was writing that... :oops:

8)

H100VW,

check for voltage at the switch... they're a bugger for getting wet and stopping working, so if there's voltage there, this is probably the problem... :| If there's no voltage, it's time to check the fuses... 8)

you're gonna need an LSD in there to get that power onto the ground, especially in a MKI where there's feck all weight! A VR6 1st and 2nd gear put into the G60 box will allow you to hit 60 in second and makes the feel of the whole box a bit better (gave me a 7sec 0-60 in my corrado, you can probably knock a second off that with a lightweight MKI! :crazyeyes: ) and there are some other people on here running MKIII 16V boxes which are supposed to be very good too if you don't want to have the cost of a rebuild on your hands (Scruffydubber is running one I think) *edit* Oi! Gav! stop pre-empting my posts! :lol: 8)

Cheeky? certainly not... :D This isn't the kind of forum where we get all arsey with anyone who's car isn't a corrado... 8) Need a few more details though... Can you pull it out of gear when you're driving (using the clutch) with little to no resistance? When the engine's not on, can you select each gear with no problems, and start the car with the clutch pressed down then move the car to show that you've actually selected the gear once the engine's running? Is it ALL gears, or just a couple of 'em? Did you replace the clutch release bearing when you did the clutch? What clutch did you put in there? It sounds to me more like the clutch isn't releasing properly rather than a gearbox fault if you can't get ANY gear once the engine is running... :|

The 1H block was used 'cos it was kicking around at Johns workshop and mine was found to be too far gone to be re-used! It's basically the same block as the PG so there's no real differences except it has slightly better water and oilways and uses larger head bolts... John would normally have used the PG block for this conversion and was slightly suprised that the head bolts were different too! 8) You'd have to ask John what the crank is... as I said, I still don't know for sure and don't want to give you any wrong answers which could screw up your new engine by not being upto spec... I'll also guarantee that you won't just guess what the pistons are, as they're not a direct fit and needed some machining work doing on 'em to make 'em fit... ;) Nothing too severe, just a couple of little tweaks... 8) They are WELL upto the job though, and it must have taken John a LONG while to find 'em! 8) Now that mine's back on the road, I can't believe just how much better it is... She's now got just under 100 miles on her since the little incident with the random bolt being sucked into the engine and she pulls like a freight train and seems to want to rev like a jet engine! 8) It's soooooo hard trying to keep her to a repectable level while I bed the new bits in! :| You REALLY need to talk to John if you're serious about trying to get something similar to my engine... He's the only one who knows exactly what's in my engine with regards to the crank and pistons... I've sworn that I won't tell a soul what the pistons are as he did me a HUGE favour getting hold of the replacement ones when that bolt managed to get sucked in and damage one of 'em... 8) Oh, and you've got that forumla slightly wrong... It's not BORE, it's RADIUS that you need to square to work out your engine specs... ;) Formula for engine CC = No. of cylinders x (Pi x (piston radius in cm)^2 x (stroke in cm) ) Given that we all know that the engine is 1940cc and the bore is 83mm, it's not difficult to work out that each cylinder has a volume of 485cc... 8) Bore = 8.3cm therefore piston area in cm^2 = Pi x (Radius^2) = 54.08cm^2 Therefore stroke = 485/54.08 = 8.97cm (2dp)

you ain't the only one Jim! :oops: :lol: 8) She's not looking too bad at the moment though... the original spec bumper's back on now and she looks good, just needs the paintwork sorting and she'll not be far off how I want her... 8)

yup, exactly... 8) Mine's the same at the moment... :oops: It could also be the bypass valves which have been put in inside the engine bay... they get gunked up and don't let as much coolant into the Matrix so it doesn't get as warm as it should... :|

45power'd, I've split the thread to make it a seperate one for ya! 8)

the hot air problem will be due to the control flaps' mechanism having jumped a tooth on the cog... have a search for "bowden AND cog" and you'll find how to sort it out... 8)

Cheers Gav, there's no huge rush at the moment, but I'd rather it was done sooner than later just in case some of these muppets who keep trying it on manage to mess up the braking and end up smashing my car up... :| It's not the theft element of the insurance I'm that bothered about (the trakM8 deals with that nicely! ;) ) it's the other idiots on the road damaging the car which concerns me somewhat... :| If you could have a word, that'd be cool... I can even pop down there one lunch time and go and see him... 8)

actually Jim, that's not a bad idea... I wonder if he'd do a report on it... :| I could lob it onto his rollers at the same time and show him what she'll do now that the cam-belt's on properly too! :lol: 8) dinkus, this is to AGREE the agreed amount...:roll: WIth HIC I just had to show 'em what I'd spent on the car, show 'em a couple of photos of the car and list all the mods... Flux wanted a 6 sheets of A4 questionaire filling out, 6 photos, copies of the receipts (they wanted the originals, but I told 'em exactly where they could shove that idea after they'd managed to loose 3 letters from me already!) and then they want an independant assessment and valuation... :| If I'd have known the hassles I'd have had with them, there's no way I would have gone with 'em... :| :( Maybe I should just point 'em to this thread and see what they say then! :lol: :twisted:

too much camber would also do this Timo., Mine's wearing 'em in the same way 'cos of the way I've had my suspension set up... it means that cornering is really rather positive ;) but tyres don't last very long... :oops:

OK, I've ALREADY got a policy with Flux... (wish I fecking hadn't, but that's a different story... :roll: :evil: ) I've presented them with a list of all of the mods, photos of all the work (I don't think they quite expected a CD of the pics though! :lol: ;) ) and copies of all the receipts, but they want someone impartial to put it in writing as to the value of the car...

nuts, sorry, can't help any more if it's the VR as I have no idea where the engine/rad/pipes etc run in relation to where the release mech is... :| The other option is to sacrifice your grill and smash that out of the way, then you can get access by hand to the mechanism and release it by hand... :| New grill from GPC is £25 IIRC... 8)