Henny

anywhere from the switch back to the clocks... :| wiring's probably the most awkward thing to diagnose as there's so many daft things that can go wrong with it... :?

use the search Neil g60, there's loads of info on what it is, where it lives and how to remove it on here... I know, I got the instructions for removing it on mine from on here! :lol: 8)

yeah, that rings a bell cost wise with me too Gav... 8)

same principle actually occurs with Cam-BELTs too, but they get changed more often than chains, and don't tend to stretch like chains do.... Basically, frequent BUMP starts aren't a particularly good idea in any car... :| Anyone who saw my car at Inters (and Bruntingthorpe) knows the kinda tool kit I tend to lug about with me 'cos I'm paranoid about the car leaving me stranded :oops: so there's nearly always a set of jump leads in my car! :lol: *Edit* damn, my reply got Kev'd! :lol: 8)

Let's hope they get it back.... can't stand these scum who go nicking cars... glad mine's got the tracker on it! 8) :twisted:

I sold my induction kit as I found my engine was more responsive with the modified airbox with the carbon cannister removed and a cold air pipe installed there instead... 8) If you DO go for the cone kit, make sure you fit a decent heat shield, else you're just gonna be sucking in hot air into the engine... :|

it's the sudden BUMP from the crank up the chains that can cause the problems... when you start the car off a starter motor, the change in tension on the chains is all nice and gradual, when the engine's running and you change revs, again it's all gradual changes... when you BUMP start a car, you suddenly slam the engine into a state where it's trying to suddenly accellerate to a couple of thousand RPM from standstill and that stresses things a LOT and can cause chains to jump teeth... :|

yup, I'd go with a broken wire or a dodgy connector/ earth... 8)

sounds about right... :)

if it's 14XXcc then, yes, it will be.... 8)

urgh, AND he's removed the spoiler! :roll: :(

He's Spanish? Explains a lot really... Don't like the car either, but it does look like it may have been done half way reasonably... :|

Alex, it's 1500cc... I was looking at getting a 1.5TDI corsa as a cheap run about if my Corrado was any more damaged than it turned out she was 'cos the tax is cheap, the insurance is sod all and they do almost 50MPG! Still not a nice car though! :lol:

rear pads tend to have the anti-rattle spring built onto them... I've not seen any removable ones for VW cars... 8)

That was actually quite mucky when that was taken as I'd just driven from Skipton to Bruntingthorpe in the rain... Normally she's a bit cleaner and the black bits look better! 8) Hey, if you're gonna rebuild an engine, why not clean it while you're doing it?!? ;)

yeah, I got a shock last month... 3 reminders in one hit! :crazyeyes: Taxed the Corrado (6 months, am skint after the unplanned engine rebuild) and Sorn'd the MKI and MKII golfs... should keep 'em off my back for another 6months anyway.... 8)

theRuler, that's what I thought too... :|

Knock sensor is on the front of the block just below and between where No.1 and No.2 spark plugs are... it's a round(ish) block which has got a 13mm head bolt holding it onto the block and has a single thickish cable coming off it which goes over to the gearbox area where it then has a green multiplug on it.... A lot of places cable tie the cable to the boost return pipe which causes the cable to chaffe through the insulation and bugger up the sensor's signals... :roll: Check the cable for damage on the insulation, if it's damaged, buy a new one from VAG, the bolt should be tightened to 15Lb/Ft torque to get the correct signals to the ECU... 8) See pic for better idea... red arrow (ish! done in paint!) is where the knock sensor lives, and the red dots indicate where the cable goes... 8)

You're in the right place... Take out the head unit again, and you'll find a blue wire with a white stripe on it coming out of the car's wiring loom... disconnect this from whatever it's connected to and your spoiler will probably start working again... 8)

'91 G60? a) yes, they were fitted as part of a recall b) dunno, haven't got Etka at work... c) no, VAG only as far as I know...

1992? I was learning to drive... a metro... :| (not mine, the driving instructors!)

Actually, that could explain why J-DUB feels sooo much faster at the moment even though I'm still bedding her back in (again! :roll: ) She seems to have shed loads more torque, and whip up through the revs loads faster (well, upto 4K anyway) Loadsa fun! 8) Just need to get the ABS working again as the roads are also getting a bit slippy around here and I've had a couple of skidding incidents already this week! :oops: I have overtaken a few Corrados in my time... normally just 'cos I can! :lol: :twisted: I do tend to sit with them now rather than just blatting past, but I think that's just 'cos I appreciate other Corrados more these days... 8)

One Place: Stealth racing One person: Vince... He be the god of all boxes VW.... (IMHO) 8) :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: give him a call to talk spec, price and time....

CheersJoeNose, I'll give them a ring in the morning... 8) I've set a basic value at 9K with Flux at the moment as that's pretty much what I could build another one the same for now I know what I'm doing! There's been quite a bit of prototype style development during the build of this car, and some of it's been rather expensive... :| There's something about the word bespoke that I like... it does kinda sum up the car nicely doesn't it! :lol: 8)

check your earth strap from the battery to the chassis and then onto the gearbox... if it's green this is your problem... The colder, wetter weather we're having now will mean that the copper is even more resistive and will be causing your starter to not get the current it requires... Either that, or your battery's shafted! :roll: