Henny

oh, and I've moved this thread to the members gallery for you... 8)

you may also have to swap the red and yellow wires on the back of the stereo... I seem to remember that Corrados have the permanent and switched lives the wrong way around.... :| Check 'em with a multimeter to see if they both have power on 'em when the ignition is on, and which one goes off when it's switched off again.... 8)

Welcome to The Forum... Nice looking car you've got there... 8) looks nice and clean... :)

they're HEAVY... They need to go on a diet in a major way to make any use of the power and handling potential they've got... :| The suspension is a little too soft for any serious fun (IMHO) but that's been the trend in VWs since the MKII and can easily be sorted with a nice aftermarket kit... 8) Other than that, they seem to be pretty well put together... :)

thank feck for that Kev, I was starting to think I'd been modifying things without even noticing I'd done them! :| :lol:

Nice pics there Jim... Glad you kept my car quite a way towards the back of all the shots where she actually looks reasonable! :lol: 8)

gibber_2k, the VR6 ECU will go into fail safe mode if it detects an out of limits reading from some of its sensors... To reset it, disconnect the power to it (normally easier to dis-connect the battery!) for about 30 seconds... If you use the search, then you'll find the complete procedure... 8) pablo_vr6, it could be as simple as how the car is normally driven and how it's been treated since new... I've driven quite a few cars in my time (understatement there! ;) ) and I've yet to drive 2 cars which are identical in the way they perform even ones I've built the engines for myself! Power and torque seem good for both cars, so I doubt there's a real problem... but I know what you mean about wondering why one is "lazy" and the other isn't... :|

ta! you just saved me a wasted trip... 8)

This is about as close as I can get to the last GTI I bought... The yellow just isn't quite bright enough though... ;) :lol:

8) 8) 8) I'll pop into smiths on the way home... 8)

Big innit?!? Make sure you don't fall in! ;) :lol: 8)

don't forget to replace the fuel filter before fitting new injectors! There's no point in fitting nice new injectors if you're just gonna clog 'em back up the first time you fire up the car! :roll: :lol:

Do you? I didn't... :| *pops into local Halfords to buy one* 8)

dazzyvr6, It's not the car theives I'm worried about... if someone like that wants 'em, they'll take 'em... it's the little scroats who may just happen to come along this forum and think "ah, nice car, and I now know how to nick his wheels..." that concern me... At the end of the day, I could post up here a complete "how to" on how to open a corrado, de-immobilise it and get around all of the locks so they could just drive off with it all in about 15 to 20 mins, but I don't think you'd be too impressed with that would you? :| Oh, and my mates garage has got one of those dynomec tools... they're VERY good, but have you seen the price?!? Oakley, you may find that some of your local cheapo tyre places have a "universal" tri-lock key which they would get your bolts out with for a few quid... if you've got tri-locks that is... :|

I think that the conclusion was that with the doors being soooo heavy on a Corrado, you'd end up having to put some SERIOUS re-enforcement into the hinge area and there simply may not be space for that amount of steel in there... :|

According to GSF: £22.50 each inc seals... not bad really... damn site cheaper than when I did mine 5 years ago... :roll: :(

take the center off the wheel and check the nut is tight... :|

odds are there's some crud in them, or they've basically just worn out... :( You may find that getting them ultrasonically cleaned will help... I replaced the ones on my valver when I had it (was feeling flush at the time! :| ) and it made one hell of a difference... 8) Check the rest of 'em and see if they're all the same....

it's also worth getting hold of a Golf or Passat Haynes manual to find out if there are any reccomended torques to tighten the bolts to... oh, and be VERY careful not to loose any of the copper washers else you'll have a fuel leak! :|

What type of locking wheel nut is it? 3 round offset hole (tri-lock) style, funny shaped groove set into the outer face, or oddly shaped outer style? Lemme know and I'll PM you a possible answer... (I know a couple of tricks... ;) ) It's not too clever putting up how to remove locking wheel nuts on a public forum... ;) :roll:

if the G60 one will fit into the VR6, then the VR6 one will too... as this is the one which is designed for most power handling from new, and he's not gone too mental with the valver's spec, stick in the VR6 one if it'll fit... 8)

honestly, you only have remove the old rear calipers and bolt the new ones in place instead! That simple, no other parts needed except for the pipe! I even used the pads which were already on my car (mintex 1144 MKII golf rear) as both them and the disks were replaced not long before I realised the calipers were dead... :roll: As with just about all work on a Corrado, many people would be able to do this themselves, but if you aren't confident of your abilities, I'd book it into a garage to get it done as brakes are pretty much the most important safety device on a car, and screwing 'em up is really not a good idea... :|

MKIV rear calipers just fit back on EXACTLY the same way as the old ones did... the only difference is the way the brake pipe connects to the caliper (which actually makes things easier IMHO!)

I've not fitted one to a Corrado before, and the one I had on my MKI 16V (corrado engine) was fitted from when I put the engine in... all I do know is it made it go like a fecking rocket! :D 8) :lol: This mod should increase power through the whole rev range, as it's allowing more air (upto 300% more!) into the system at any time you boot it! Good luck! 8)

There aren't any more! ;) :lol: