Henny

The trick is to remove the caliper without undoing the flexypipe, then pump up the piston in the cylinder quite a bit, crack open the flexy to caliper connection and bleed it by loosening/tightening the flexy... When you think it's pretty much done, loosen the pipe again, and squeeze the piston all the way back in... this'll remove just about all the fluid in the caliper and get rid of most of the air and old fluid... 8) It's not ideal, and it's certainly not a good idea to use this method for anything other than bailing yourself out of the sh!t when you accidentally snap a nipple off and have to use the car to go and get a new one! ;) :oops: :lol:

I honestly don't know what the crank is out of still... I've a good idea, but I respect John enough not to dig about too much as it's his little brain child and I know he spent lots of time researching it... The transporter block conversion is the one I was on about avoiding... I've mentioned it in my gallery thread and what my opinions of it are... ;) If you get a GOOD set of pistons, it shouldn't matter much if they are cast or forged... mine are Mahle cast pistons which have been modified to fit the application properly... John must have spent a good while researching these pistons, as they took one hell of a hammering when a bolt got sucked into my engine, but there's no structural damage to the piston (had it X-rayed) which speaks wonders for them! I only decided to replace the whole set as I intend to USE this car hard and so don't want to risk a possible BIG failure when I can afford both the time and cash to make sure there's no compromises on this re-rebuild! 8) The only daft/stupid question is the one you don't ask but wonder about... 8) The difference in engine weight is almost zero... I'd had my suspension corner-weighted before I did the rebuild, and got it checked out afterwards and there was almost NO difference! :) The Koni/H&R kit should do you nicely... I'm running on cheapo supersport coilovers 'cos they satisfied what I wanted at the time... I'll probably change 'em next summer when I save up a little money and get something a little nicer and probably start messing with anti-roll bars and the like at the same time! ;) 8) IMHO, good people to talk to about the engine are: John (16VG60), Darren (G-man) and Vince at stealth.... The guys over at C&R are also worth chatting to about 2.0 conversions as they have several interesting upgrades available for the G60 block... 8) Good luck! 8)

Red Corrado in ATS in Macclesfield at 8:20 this morning... Anyone here? (was in a punto so running in stealth mode! ;) )

with ya there storm classic, Anyone who's considering doing (or better still, done!) a 4x4 conversion gets a huge amount of admiration from me as I can see just how much work and commitment there is in getting it right... 8)

Get the new PVW which is coming out shortly... that should have my 1/4 mile, 0-60, 0-100, fastest speed (139.8mph) and 100-0 times in it... 8) BHP figures are just an estimate based on the Stealth roller session when I was a tooth out on the cam with a pretty bad boost leak... As soon as the engine is re-bedded in with the new pistons and shells, I'll be getting some figures from the next group roller session to see how she compares with some other cars... 8) With an LSD fitted, a good Corrado with 250ish BHP will keep up with a scooby of around 300bhp even when wet on the roads purely due to the extra drag of the scoob's permanent 4x4 system... Add to that the fact that scoobs get somewhat understeer-ey in the wet and it'll take a GOOD confident driver of a 300BHP scooby to embarrass a well tuned 250ishBHP G60 or VR6 with an LSD anywhere there's anything mildly twisty! Trust me, I know from experience! ;) 8) The A34 to Congleton is great fun for irritating the hell outta scoobies! ;) :lol:

just get hold of a black early interior and then it's just a case of swapping like for like... no messing about with changing wiring and switches etc etc etc... 8) Your dashboard clocks are more difficult as, IIRC, 89's have a mechanical milage and speedos so swapping to a later one is not just a straight swap.... Best bet is, as pablo_vr6, says, to paint the needles... nail varnish works VERY well and you can then get them any colour you want! 8)

I've been PAYING to drive a 1.2 Punto for the last 5 weeks while my car's been off the road... :evil: Not fun... :( Soooooo can't wait until I get the pistons back from being modified and get the engine back together again... 8)

use a spline drive socket of the correct diameter to hammer into the hex cap head... this has ALWAYS worked when I've done it... 8)

Plus gas = WD40 on steroids... 8)

phew, not just me that did that then g-man, :roll: :wink: :lol: :mrgreen:

'lo! 8) Firstly, when I started my project, I knew very little about the G60 engine... I learnt most of what I now know from on here and research into engines in general... 8) There's no reason anyone with a reasonable technical ability can't do exactly the same as I did... At the end of the day I bought the bottom end as a package from John (16VG60) so initially I had no idea what pistons, crank, compression ratio, stroke or bore I was going to end up with... I've since learnt pretty much exactly what is in there and have been MORE than happy with the results... 8) As Beavis says, it's important to work out exactly what it is that you want your engine to be for... Have a flick through my members gallery (click on the J-DUB link in the sig below! ;) ) and you'll get some pretty good ideas of how I went about my conversion... :) It's also VERY important to have a chat with as many different people offering, or owning, engine conversions to gauge their knowledge and the reasoning behind their conversions... After Inters last year, I'd already written off 3 of the "off the shelf" conversions just due to attitude and lack of information... Don't expect people to tell you exactly what's going to be in any bottom end you end up with... at the end of the day, that's their little secret and research which they're making the money on, but you should be able to get out of them exact CCs, C/R and probably if the pistons are cast, turned or forged... 8) It's true (to a point) that a longer stroke will give better torque, however you also loose some of the revvy-ness of the engine, so you have to be VERY careful not to over-do stroke at the expense of Bore... Some of the "off the shelf" 2.0 conversions are based on 2.0 Van engines which, IMHO, are not suitable for a nice revvy supercharged sports engine... My engine's an 83mm overbored Rallye block with a different crank in it and custom machined Mahle pistons which has then been fully blue-printed and balanced to give 1940cc and 8.5:1 C/R. The cam is a standard G60 cam and EVERYTHING which has gas going through it has been ported, port matched and flowed which, when coupled up with the Golf G60 intercooler gives rather a nice package! ;) 8) The standard G60 injection and ignition (Digifant) system is pretty good... changing the injectors, fuel pressure regulator and chip will allow some pretty major modifications to be done without exceeding the ECU's capabilities.... you will have to get the chip custom written though, as your engine will most likely be a one-off and will need it's own map creating on a rolling road, so keep a good 3 or 4 hundred quid spare for this... 8) Gearbox wise, I looked into quite a few places and eventually went with Stealth Racing 'cos I'd not heard a single negative comment about them and Vince is recognised as a God of VW gearboxes! :D Again, what you do to it depends on what you want out of the car... I considered quite a few things for my box, but after talking to Vince, I realised I was actually quite happy with the gearbox as a whole, I just felt that 2nd gear was WAY too short and it needed an LSD... so we put in a Quaife and a VR6 1st and 2nd gear and now I'm a happy bunny! :lol: Have a think about what you want out of the car... Give some people a call and have a chat with them to see what they say and the routes they mention to get your car to where you want it to be, then sit and weigh up your options... 8) Oh, and don't neglect your brakes and suspension... there's no point in having a nice fast engine if you end up wrapping the car around something (or someone) else at the first corner you come to due to crap brakes and handling! :| Good luck! 8)

yup, personally, I'd run her up to temp while she's standing, switch off and drain the oil. Change the filter and replace the oil (don't forget the bung first though!) and then drive as normal... 8)

nope... not that I know of... VW/Audi are all 100 or 112 PCD, porsche are 120 IIRC... Adaptors are definately the way to go... 8) Blown, send Dubwhizz a PM, he's just fitted Porsche Design90's to his G60 Golf and got a good deal on a set of adaptors... 8)

Huh? personal? WTF?!? It's a shed! Cosworth only tweaked these engines, they didn't actually make 'em IIRC... The only way you'd get this to 180MPH is to attach it to a missile and press the fire button! :roll: :lol:

I STILL miss my 1.8 16V Corrado... Lovely motor, quick enough to be fun and pretty cheap to run too... 8)

on the very front of the engine in the plastic flange which the top pipe to the radiator attaches to... 8) Make sure you also get a seal with the sensor! ;) :lol:

there are 2 sensors in the same place... Blue one ONLY feeds the ECU to let it know the operating temp of the engine. Black one ONLY feeds the gauge on your dash to show your water temps.

I've got (well, I did have before I stripped the engine again) around 260Bhp put down through a Quaife and modded G60 box... Jim'll testify that it was gripping OK at Brunters with standing water on the track with it's 205/40/16 A539s! ;) 8) :mrgreen: A 7 second 0-60 and a 13.6 second 1/4 mile in the wet (read as BIG puddles!) will also testify that you CAN get over 250bhp onto the road effectively with some decent tyres and an LSD.... 8) Oh, and remember Gibber, with your car as low as it is, the handling and initial get up and go are gonna be affected as well as your grip on the road... :|

theRuler, You wouldn't be able to pull off a trick like the MKI/MKII rear brakes trick with Porsche bits... Porsche = RWD or 4WD, so they don't have a rear stub axle, and the rear brakes are designed for driven hubs, not freewheeling ones... :?

double wall heat shrink works VERY well on the striker pins... ;) 8)

Yup, the chain between the 2 cams needs to be replaced around about the same time as the tappets are in need of doing... don't change it and the inlet cam stops spinning and you get lots of nice bent valves... :| :roll: It's only a cheap little chain, but it's kinda important! :wink:

sounds to me like the pressure switch has died... There's 2 on the G60, one on the right side of the head (as you look from the front of the car) which is in a T piece on the oil-line to the supercharger. The other is on the oil filter head. They're both identical to look at except that the colour indicates the pressure they activate at. These shouldn't cost you too much from VW and may just sort out your problems... Oh, and they're easy to fit too, just unscrew the old one and then screw in the new one! 8)

got mine on a "for sale" advert here... 8).... but then, I do spend half my life here so I managed to grab 'em quick before anyone else had chance! ;) :lol: :twisted:

fla, find an Audi or a new Seat in a scrappy... Audi's use a dark amber ring around the lighter which may go, and new Seats use red ones... 8)

I'm pretty certain that it's just a case of unplugging the whole lot of switch gear, undoing a couple of screws behind the steering wheel and then bolting on the same lot of bits from a later car, but as I say, I've not done it...