Henny

8) 8) 8) 8)

nope, you're not perverting the course of justice... you're not jamming anything, or blocking anything, or transmitting on a restricted frequency, or obscuring anything, or, or... you've just got some infra-red LEDs around your number plate... They'll probably get you for something eventually, but the ultimate excuse is that you've been filming yourself driving at night on a track, and the LEDs help the camera see at night... ;) 8) :lol:

Looks really nice Paul, but do us a favour and ditch the Audi badge on the back... :roll: Colour suits the car well, and those wing vents are starting to grow on me too... 8)

G60Dan, revolving numberplates are sooo passe... build a load of infra-red LEDs into the numberplate surround which are powered when the ignition is on... Digital/night cameras won't be able to see the plate then, and it's not illegal (I know, 'cos I was going to set up a company selling these and so looked into the legalities of it) 'cos they're still readable by the human eye... ;) You'll need to do both front and back though, but it'll stop all but Gatso style cameras which have a film in them... 8) :lol:

Baz? what corrado have you got? have you got a digital milage counter? could be a broken speedo cable if it's a mechanical one... If it's a digital one, check the AVERAGE SPEED on the MFA (MPG isn't as easy to tell by! ;) ) if that's still working, then I'm with Supercharged on it being the needle coming loose, or a dodgy connection... If it's not working (and the spoiler's not working either) then it's probably the gearbox speed sender which has either broken or become disconnected at the plug or due to a broken wire... :|

oil light will only come on if there is low pressure... low oil level will not cause the light to come on... The light probably DID come on while you were hammering it around the roundabout, but the buzzer will stay on longer than the light, so you probably didn't notice the light being on... If it comes on when you first turn the ignition on, and then goes out, it's almost certainly working properly... 8)

yup, with Chris on this one... Laser is dusty and needs cleaning IMHO... 8)

Bumper looks excellent mate... 8) Did you have any problems fitting the earlier fogs/indicators into the bumper? Can't wait to see some slightly less blury photos... 8)

I'm 6'1" with short legs, and I can safely say I've not been in many (if any) more comfortable seat than the Corrado ones.. it takes a bit of pratting around to get it set up right but then, once it's set up, I can drive it all day (except petrol stops! :roll: ) and have no bad effects at all.... and that's both the cloth and leather interiors I've had in the car... 8) Never tried the Recaros though... :|

Trimsport still do these IIRC... 8)

Sounds very much like the alarm in my garage... ;) 8) Set it off and stay inside for: 1) more than 20 seconds and you'll have ringing in your ears for a good few hours 2) more than 30 seconds and you'll have temporary hearing damage and ringing for a few days 3) more than 50 seconds and you'll have permanent hearing damage, and ringing for a few weeks 4) more than a minute and you're risking permanent deafness... :| Oh, and the 2x 250W flood lamps aimed at the doors have a fantastic stunning effect! ;) All covered by the sign on both doors warning you of loud noise levels and advising hearing protection... 8) Dunno if it'd stand up in court, but anyone who'd tried it would have problems answering the questions due to not being able to hear 'em! :lol: :twisted:

fair enough... I'll sling a set on next pad change (or when I finally get my arse in gear and fix the rear ABS rotors! :oops: :lol: ) 8) Still don't understand how they could affect the pedal travel though... :|

'ello! 8)

I'll dig out the part number for the oil pump splash plate when I get home... it's VAG only unfortunately and will probably take a couple of days to get in for you... :| I'll also confirm the torque settings too as they're off the top of my head from what I remember them being when I bolted mine back together earlier this year... 8)

DEL VR6, they do that when there's either a dying part in the hydraulics or the pressure plate is on it's way out... you can't really tell which from that, but it's not an extra problem, so don't worry any more about that bit, sort the clutch problem and it'll sort the pedal problem... 8)

dinkus, Sorry mate, you were an easy target! ;) :lol: £46.95 from Eurocarparts... 8) Total job should cost you less than £100 if you do it yourself (look in your other thread for details... 8) )

doddle to do... but can be seriously messy... :| Drain oil (duh!) and leave it draining for a good few hours to try and get as much oil out of the system as possible Re-fit the sump plug Undo the bottom gearbox inspection plate/cover Undo the 12 or so 10mm bolts which hold the sump on Carefully tap the sump to break it's seal and it'll come off (with some persuasion as the P/S and water pipes tend to get in the way a little) Remove old sump gasket Undo 2x 14mm headed bolts and the oil pump will drop out (probably soaking you with oil in the process :roll: ) Get new pump, fill with good quality grease and turn it to suck the grease in - This will get the initial pressure up a lot quicker and stop the engine from running dry for the few moments it takes for a new oil pump to get working Turn the key'd drive so that it's in the same orientation as the one on the pump you've just removed and fit the new pump Tighten the bolts to 45LbFt (I think, I'll check this when I get home) Replace the sump gasket and re-fit the sump (bolts tighten to 11Lb/Ft IIRC) Re-fit inspection cover. Change the oil filter, fill with oil and try her out... 8) Parts needed : New pump New pump splash plate (the old plastic one WILL break as you remove it to fit it to the new pump) Sump gasket Oil filter Sump bung washer Oil A damned good shower/bath afterwards! :lol: :roll: Have a good look at your sump before you start the work... New sumps only cost about £20, so if there's any sign of rust on the outside of the sump, or any deep scratches or dents, replace it... 8)

To be fair, why would you try it the other way?!? I only remembered it 'cos I'd read it here and thought that it was a bloody silly idea... :roll: :lol: 8)

not enough pressure mate... And yes, I have driven my first C without power steering... trying to go into a corner at 15MPH when the P/S belt breaks isn't something I'd recommend! :| :roll: :mrgreen:

remove it anyway and just go the gym a little more often! ;) :lol: :mrgreen:

loosen the pin... the thread it connects into "floats" in the B pillar so allows you to adjust it by moving it around a little once it's loosened slightly... 8)

8) nice one! 8)

just to add to what 'nana man says, also check the pipe from the bulkhead to the slave cylinder, as I've seen a couple of these which have gone porus over the last few months which leads to a similar problem as a dead cylinder would... The pipe I mean is the rubber bit with the coil of metal pipe on it which feeds the slave cylinder... 8)

No sounder for over temp (and mine's been off the top of the gauge! :oops: ) just the little red light and that's it... The beeping DEFINATELY sounds like the low oil pressure warning as everyone else (except Dinkus :roll: ) has said above...

..and ignore their prices online, they are sooooooooooo outta date it's untrue! :roll: