Henny

email sent about the 25 pics I've got of A20LEE... ;) :D 8) some stonking mods on this car which just blew me away... every time I looked at it I found something else which had been changed subtly... 8) VERY VERY COOL CAR... 8) 8) 8)

saw one or two Corrados today at Tatton park... 8) Think some of them may be forum members.... ;) :lol: :roll: Good to meet those of you I did get to chat too anyway... :)

G60- gin, sounds VERY much like a new ignition switch is needed.... :|

change the vacuum hose from the throttle body to the ECU for a new one which is exactly 100cm long... your old one will have either split, come off or gone porus and isn't giving the ECU the correct signals anymore... 8) It'll cost ya about £10 from VAG for the pipe, and is reasonably easy to change... 8)

buy a genuine VAG one, not a cheapo Euro or GSF special as they are pants in comparison to the genuine ones and WILL split much easier than genuine ones... (trust me on this... I know this from experience of BOTH... :( )

if the fan isn't kicking in with the new switch, it sounds like the water in the rad's not getting up to temp enough to fire off the fan switch... very odd... :| Change those 2 water temp sensors and let us know what happens afterwards... 8)

's alright matey... 8) 'twas good vaild info if it were a VR6 that I couldn't have given... :)

I just asked C&R for the Corrado rear MKIV brake conversion kit... 8) Came in at a smidgen under £200 all in IIRC... 8) Well worth it... :) When I did it, they needed the old ones back in exchange, they take a little bit more money off your card and then refund it when they receive the old calipers back.... I think they may have stopped doing this though as they have had so many MKII to MKIV conversions recently they have shed loads of MKII calipers and no MKIV ones coming back! :lol: 8)

Only used non-optimax once in my car and it ran like crap for that tank.... :| stayed with optimax since.... 8)

Top it up before you set off and I'll have a quick look at it at Tatton with you to make sure she's OK... I'll have my standard tool kit with me to make sure mine keeps running which includes a couple of litres of G12+ and some water, so don't worry about it too much! ;) :lol: 8) There's no reason to think you have a leak after the RR session, so even if you have a slight leak, 200 miles ain't gonna kill her... :)

Yeah, but with any spinning disk, you run the risk of damage to the paint work if you're not 100% sure as to what you're doing... :| I didn't know that Kev... every day's a school day... :D :lol: 8)

I'm keeping an eye on this thread (as with all threads... :roll: :lol: ) so pist up what you find after you've replaced the temp senders and if I can help anymore I will.... :) 8) Pipes expanding near the joint isn't just a sign of over pressure.... it's also a sign of age on VAG rubber pipes... :| unless your pipes are getting ROCK hard, don't panic too much until you've changed the senders.... ;) :D

not on a 1.8 16V there isn't.... there is no drain plug on one of these.... :| bob1888cfc, you'll probably find that the leak is from one of 4 common leak points on these engines.... 1) the plastic flange on the right hand side of the head as you look at it from the front bumper... it'll leak from around the base and leave a stain (roughly the colour of your coolant, or white depending on your coolant) around the lower part of the flange... 2) the plastic flange on the front of the head between plugs 3 and 4.... again leak will be below and onto the block and look like the description above... 3) the metal water pipe which runs around the outside of the block and over the gearbox.... this corrodes and leaks in quite a few different places.... have a close look for any points it looks badly rusted.... 4) the thermostat housing... this will leak under the engine to the left of the block as you look at it from the front of the engine... it's not too difficult to replace, but you may as well do the thermostat while you're there as it lives in that housing so there's no place in changing the housing without putting in a sub £10 thermostat! ;) None of the flanges cost more than £10 from Euro or GSF and are readily available... if it's the front one, it's as well to change the coolant temp senders and O rings too while you're in there... 8) The metal pipe is the most expensive fix at about £30 from VAG... it's a bit of a pig to fit, but can be done by most home mechanics with a little swearing and a few skinned knuckles! ;) :lol: Good luck! 8)

Personally, I'd always plump for a rotor arm and dizzy cap over a coil pack every time... You just need to look at the problems that VAG are having at the moment with Audi TTs and VAG 20VTs loosing coil packs alllllllllllllllllllllllll over the place to realise that this is a technology which has not yet been perfected.... :| Gimme something mechanical with 100 years of experience over something electronic with less than 20 years anyday... ;) 8) (and this is coming from someone with an electronic, electrical, computer and mechanical engineering degree! ;) :lol: ) Leave it how VW intended and you'll do MUCH better... ;) :D

one has a fuel rail, the other has a big metering head behind the drivers headlamp with a shed load of fuel pipes running around the engine...

inside the boot there's a cover on the boot lid... remove this and you'll find the spoiler (and rear wiper) mechanisms... Disconnect the wiring for the spoiler motor and check for voltage while someone else plays with the spoiler button with the ignition on... That'll prove if it's a wiring fault or if your mechanism is at fault... 8)

ECU hose from VAG for about £10 for the meter, or you could get some silicone stuff from somewhere like Demon Tweeks, but you'd need to make sure it's the correct inside diameter... O rings can be had from VAG, GSF or Euro with little to no wait... :)

it could be something as simple as the gauge beeing bust... :| Are you sure that you are actually getting to 110 water temp? What's the oil reading on the MFA? Change the black sender in the plastic flange on the front of the block, this is the water temp gauge sender and they're a sod for going wrong after being overheated or dried out... Also change the blue one while you're at it (will cost less than £20 for both from GSF or Euro) and don't forget to change the O rings for them too! ;) If this doesn't cure it, I'd see if you can get hold of a cheap water temp gauge to check if the one on the dash is telling a true reading or talking sh!te... ;) Good luck! :)

Welcome to The Forum.... Car looks excellent.... Interesting blanking plate where the ingition switch should be... makes me think you REALLY have been playing LOTS with this car since May.... ;) 8) Go on, what's the specs then? You know you wanna! ;) :lol:

there's also a silicone sealant remover available (think it's another Evo Stick product) which may well get it off too...

I live 15 mins from the Cat and Fiddle pass which has THE highest death rate in the UK... :| I can see why too 'cos it's too much damn fun blatting up and down it on a nice day like today... :oops: Oh, and not a speed camera on there anywhere... explain that one Mr.Government people... :roll: :mad:

and here too... got my leather from here during my rebuild for around £500... I've now got a BIG VW flag which I attach to the inside of the car when I park it so that the sun doesn't shine on the leather and make it into a small oven! Oh, and this is the only disadvantage of a moon roof that I've found yet... you HAVE to remember to shut the blind when you leave the car else it acts as a greenhouse as well as the windows... :| :onfire: I wouldn't change it though, 'cos the leather is lovely most of the time... 8)

ALL cars with aircon WILL loose power when the aircon is switched on... The engine has to drive the compressor/pump for the air-con (be it electrical or mechanical) and this will result in power loss... The question you should be asking is "will adding air con onto my car make a big difference to the power of the car"... FYI, if you disconnect all of the belts on a car (except for the cam belt and supercharged models of course! ;) ) you'll typically gain between 10 and 30 BHP at the wheels! :shock: You won't be able to run for long as the battery will go flat and the waterpump probably won't be driven so you'll have little to no cooling... Air con will easily knock off around 10 to 15BHP on it's own...

there is absolutely NO point in putting bigger rear disks on other than to make the disks fill the rear wheels a little more... The Corrado already has a brake load compensator which limits the amount of pressure the rear brakes can get depending on how heavy the car is at the time... If you upgrade the rear brakes to use BIG disks you'll end up locking up the rear wheels every time you hit the brakes and probably end up wrapped around a tree... :| :crazyeyes: :roll: The MKIV conversion simply makes the handbrake work (and work very well! ;) ) which is something the original MKII style calipers totally failed to do! :roll: I know that 16VG60 has fitted some slightly larger rear disks to his car, but his has been exceedingly well thought out so he's almost certainly adjusted other things to make this an effective and safe conversion... Send him a PM and ask him about it if you are REALLY up for changing for bigger rear disks...

unfortunately, I'm with ya there Rodders... If the boot floor's been bent, then the whole rear alignment will be out and you'll need some serious jig work to straighten it... :( This will definately be a write off IMHO as the work involved just to sort the rear panel will be enough to write an early valver like this off... Damned shame 'cos it looked like a nice one too... :| Get whoever was in the Corrado at the time checked out ASAP with a decent doctor and make sure you get copies of any notes made about injuries... Get yourself some decent claims advice too... ;) Most insurance companies allow you to buy back the salvage for between 5 and 10% of the replacement payout they make... This can be knocked off what you receive in the final cheque, or may have to be paid upfront depending on the insurance company... It looks like there's some good panels in there and the rest of the car looks to be in good shape, so breaking her will probably be worth your while if you have the space and time to do it.... Alternatively, you could always stick in a Rallye/synchro boot floor and 4x4 system with an engine upgrade! ;) :lol: 8) Hope it all works out for you anyway, it's a real arse when some pillock does something like this and you are a completely innocent party... :|