Henny

benji16v, you're putting more load onto the alternator by turning on the heavy loads like lights and rear screen, so more heat will be produced by the engine as it has to work harder to power it all... 8) IMHO, ALL performance VWs should have a seperate oil cooler fitted... 8)

Is that a different steering column? Car looks great now you've lifted her up a little... can't wait to see this project finished.... 8)

I have no intention of taking mine out again... sorry... it hurt too much the first time! :evil: :lol:

JBL or Infinity are very good component sets and ain't too expensive either... 8)

they're talking sh!te... go to Euro and you'll get one over the counter... they're still used on just about every VW made... :roll:

my tracking device also acts as a road angel type device when hooked up to their new optional interface with no subscription costs... 8) Best of all worlds, and the safety of knowing you can tell where your car is at all times and can dis-able it from where ever you are just by phoning it... 8)

it also means that they can sit on bridges and get you with the mobile units which aren't in the Road angel maps yet and know they won't get sussed by radar/laser detectors... :mad: really gets my goat this does... guy I know got bottled, and the police don't want to do anything about it, yet he then gets done for 34 in a 30 100 yards after it becomes 30 from a 60... :mad:

The only thing likely to break is your fingers... they're tough little feckers... :| Be careful though, 'cos when they do come off, they tend to do it suddenly making you fly across the car, and the metal bit they leave behind may be slightly sharp and can cut your fingers... Not one of VW's finest designs... :roll:

could also be the alternator bushes/noise supressor wearing out... does the type of noise you get alter with revs of the engine and dissapear with the engine off? If it doesn't change with revs, it's the aerial amp as suggested above.... 8)

I'm pretty certain that the cable from the switch to the solenoid is just a straight cable with no relays or other gubbins to screw up in there... I'm betting that you find you have 12V at the solenoid when you turn the key and that the starter motor is jammed... ;)

ah-ha! I can positively answer this 'cos I've changed my throttle cable this week and have been messing with a 1.8 16V throttle body to see if I could fix my sticking G60 one! 8) The throttle cable is a doddle to fit. Unclip it from the throttle body in the engine bay and pull it out of the clamp. Pull it from the engine bay through into the scuttle area (by the widscreen wipers) Undo the fusebox cover and the under dash tray around it (there's a screw at the back of that under tray in the middle which you may miss and will make you swear when you notice it! ;) ) On the left hand side of the pedals (YES, LEFT, not next to the throttle, the other side! ;) ) up at the top there's a lever which is attached to the throttle pedal. at the top of that there's a rubber gromet which the cable goes through to connect it to the pedal, un hook it. Now pull the throttle cable from the scuttle area straight out. Re-fitting IS the reversal (and has no hidden problems to it either! :) ) Should take 15mins all in if you're any good... 8) The 1.8 16V throttle body only has an idle switch. Nothing else. Nothing to click at full throttle... 8)

I tried for ages to get a new one... in the end I just took an angle grinder to it and hacked off the rotten bit... ;) :lol: 8)

8)

On the starter motor, there are 2 connectors for wiring, one is the big FAT positive from the battery (which also goes off to the alternator off the same connector), The other is the thin wire from the switch to the solenoid. This second wire is on a simple spade connector. Pull it off and check for 12V between there and the earth on the battery while someone turns the key to start. If there's 12V there, the starter is jammed, if there's not, you have a wiring fault. 8)

yeah, but they've got to: A) Make it law first... ;) B) Catch you with one I can see mine becoming part of the dashboard soon anyway as well as the GPS based one which will be installed shortly... ;) Nothing to see here... move along now... ;) :D :lol:

STEEP? Closer to vertical I'd have said... :| :crazyeyes: A storm without the storm wheels on 88K miles for 9.5K?!? I'd want 8000miles on the clock for that kinda cash... :? :roll:

I've had both Snooper and Cobra detectors. I currently use another Cobra one as I managed to get it very cheap The cheaper ones are OK, but lack some of the detection range of the more expensive ones so give you less warning... :| The one I've got now retailed at around £350 at the time and would have easily paid for itself by now in fines I've not had to pay... 8) My first one was the REALLY cheap Snooper one (cost £99 at the time) and was great back then (1999) but lacks the multi band sensing that you need these days (Ie it only detects 3 radar bands and laser, where my new one does 7 and laser... 8) ) Do they work? well, I've still got a clean licence... ;) 8)

I seem to remember some choice phrases may have been uttered by myself when I did my switch too... ;) :lol: Glad you got it sorted Tom, satisfying ain't it.... 8) :D

Sorry for not having written this guide yet... been kinda busy.... :| The two bits of casting on the intercooler are the 2 ribs on the front edge of the cooler at the top. (highlighted in red in this pic) need to be trimmed (not shown :oops: ) so that it'll fit under the slam panel and also allow you to fit your headlamps afterwards... Guess how much swearing was involved in finding out about the headlamps?!? ;) :oops:

Towing a car on a motorway with a rope IS illegal (and also not particularly safe!) It has to be either a fixed bar or an A frame (see below) I think you guys are all getting confused with the 2 different types of towing... 1) towing something designed to be towed via a tow bar fitted to the lead vehicle (trailers, A frames, caravans etc... ) 2) towing another vehicle with a rope or fixed bar using the towing eyes on one or both cars There are distinct seperate rules for each type of towing as regards to who can, where you can/can't, how fast etc etc etc.... It's also a REALLY good idea to check with your insurance company to make sure you are insured for towing (of either kind) as some will refuse to pay out if the car being towed is involved in an accident as it's not road worthy (why else would you be towing it) AND some insist that you inform them if you are about to tow another vehicle as it becomes seen as part of your vehicle in the eyes of the law and so if you are in an accident the towing vehicle's driver's insurance gets the hammering... :| kevhaywire, the bar set up you're on about is an A frame and clips onto a tow bar... all you need to do is to leave the key in the ignition of the car being towed so the steering lock doesn't come on and then you just need the one driver to move both cars... Used them a lot to move cars about in my time... 8) If you're in any doubt, ASK someone in either the citizens advice or your local police station... 8)

If you're after an RS4 style plastic front bumper, drop me a PM as I'll probably be selling the one I bought for mine shortly and it's PERFECT for sticking a big F off intercooler behind... ;) 8)

I'll be over to see ya tomorrow lunch time.... ;) 8)

change the rear wiper relay and it should kill the 5 second re-wipe.... ;)

if you've shattered the CV joint, get a new boot for it too 'cos the old one will be full of metal fragments which you'll never get out and could get into and damage the new CV joint... 8) Glad it's nothing toooooo bad... 8)

this I am still learning... and grinning like a loon all the while! ;) :D 8)