Henny

ditch the original oil cooler and fit those two pipes... 8) The plumbing's exactly the same in that area for all 4cylinder VWs, so those part numbers are still correct... 8) They replace the two pipes which feed the original oil cooler with pipes without the take off points on 'em... One runs from the waterpump straight up the front of the block and onto the side of the front coolant flange (that black plastic bit which always leaks! ;) ) the other joins the water pump to the metal water pipe which runs around the side of the block... 8)

yeah, my mate runs it on his Ipaq clone... I'm very impressed with it... 8) on a slightly off topic theme, does anyone know any good LAPTOP software to do the same as this? I really like TomTom, and have GPS in my car for the tracker which I'm going to interface into a broken laptop in the boot which'll be linked into my TV system, but I don't know of any good Tomtom style software which'll run on a full PC processor... :|

bighairybstrd, all 3 wires onto the starter are +ve... it earths through the engine block... 8) There's a thick red one which comes from the alternator which connects onto the same point as the thick wire from the +ve off the battery... these both connect onto the bolt with the 13mm nut to secure them... Then there's a thin wire with a spade terminal which comes from the starter switch and connects onto the solenoid. This is the one you want to disconnect and replace with a thick bit of wire so you can tap it onto the +ve of the battery to "hotwire" the starter motor... 8) p.s. nice disclaimers about taking it out of gear and having the handbrake on! :D 8)

Probably a bit of tree... ;) (sorry, couldn't resist it... )

the aerial amp is built into the base of the outside aerial, BeavisJem... 8) The thick lead is a co-axial lead for the radio signal, the thin lead is the aux power from the head unit to power the amplifier... You can get aftermarket amps from places like Maplins or Halfords which may help things considerably and mean not having to replace the whole aerial.... 8) Think they're about £15 or so....

I've got the old ones on the rear of my Corrado, but I keep getting ABS faults which I'm betting is for this reason. The problem is that they are a push fit onto the rear of the disk, so as the disk rusts and expands slightly over time, they get well and truely stuck on. As you remove them, you open them up slightly so they won't fit onto the back of the slightly smaller (rust free!) new disks properly, which allows they to slip when spinning and cause the ABS light to come on.... :(

nah mate, you want a nice little W12 in a car like that.. ;) :lol: 8)

they should be able to benji16v, The fitting point is identical to that on the G60, it's only the size of the rad I'm not sure about which may limit your mounting locations, although I'm pretty certain that you can mount it to the drivers side of the rad with no problems which should get plenty of air flow to it... 8)

what? THIS ONE? :lol: 8)

I've got an 16row Mocal oil cooler and an aftermarket radiator fan on my 1940cc G60... Oil NEVER goes above 105 and water never goes much over 90... 8)

ummm, I've got about 45mm between the bottom of the Reiger front bumper and the floor... :| :oops: gonna put the original bumper back on as it's not good when you can touch the bumper on the deck on a fast track's corner... :lol:

Scrap yard mate! Just find any old VW (Passat's probably your best bet) and cut a chunk of dashboard out so you can use that when you get home.... 8) You could mount the head unit in the glove box pretty easily... take out the light and you can run the cables through the hole without hacking the glovebox up either... 8) I've installed DVD players and CD multichangers in gloveboxes before using some industrial velcro to hold it in with no problems and the advantage that you can sell the car with no dodgy looking holes in the golvebox... 8)

Ask Trilidon how much of a PITA it is to undo this when someone had done it to his ORANGE Corrado.... :| Don't do it unless you are 1000000% sure about it... Good luck with it though... 8)

Oh no they weren't... The early cars with leather didn't all have heater elements in 'em.... I know 'cos mine aren't heated and are definately UK Corrado seats... ;)

definately the bastard offspring of a gangbang with a corrado, a TT and a Leon Cupra.... :lol: Works well though, got all the right parts of all of 'em... 8)

yup, they're just plain old bulbs with a plastic filter in there... changing 'em for LEDs and getting bright spots is 'cos they're too close to the diffuser behind the LCDs so haven't got enough space to focus their light evenly... :?

do you want to put that into English woody?!? :wink: :lol:

buy these three haynes manuals and you'll have pretty much all the info you'll ever need... ;) 8) MKII Golf Passat 92-> 96 MKIII Golf (only really of use if you have a VR6) You'll have to work out which is closest to your Corrado out of each of the 3, but the Corrado was basically built out of the mechanicals from those 3 cars, so all is VERY similar... 8)

coolrado, just for info, the early cable drive speedos still have a pulse wire leaving the clocks to set the spoiler and active volume controls up with... You should be able to tap into that in exactly the same way as a later one... 8)

not that difficult if you have an adjustable steering column... never tried it on one without, so can't say if it'll come out as easily... :| undo the 2 screws at the top of the gauge surround. remove the 2 covers in the bottom corners of the surround, remove the screws and remove the surround. remove the 2 outer screws which hold the clocks onto the metalwork (NOT the 2 which hold the clear plastic cover on! ;) ) rock the cluster forwards, and unclip the wiring, vacuum hose and speedo cables (depending on which model you have depends on which of these 3 you have!) remove clocks... 8)

PCD = the diameter of the circle around the center of the wheel which the bolt holes are in.... IE, VW corrados are either 4x100 or 5x100 which means that there are either 4 or 5 holes in a 100mm radius from the center of the wheel.... 8) Offset is a little more tricky... it's to do with how far out/in from the center of the wheel the face you bolt the wheel onto sits relative to the rest of the wheel.... :? That's not a very good description, but I've just got back from the pub, so if you need, I'm sure someone else (sober! ;) ) will clarify soon... 8)

the blue lamp is NOT an LED... this was PRE-blue LED technology, so it's simply a bulb with a cover over it... :| You can get replacements, and they're not that hard to fit once you've got the clocks out... 8)

yeah, I'm beginning to regret the black leather upgrade with the engine upgrade in my C.... :? :onfire:

Sell 'em and get an Infinity "Bass Link" which are DIRT cheap over in the states.... :? :|

for the price of 'em, sling in the new one and see if it makes a difference... ;) you're gonna have a lot more work on your hands if this doesn't work... :? :( Thermostats fail in quite a few different ways, it's difficult to say if it's working or not just by slinging it in hot water... :?