Henny

The ignition lock and housing is the same amount even if you don't want to specify the key for it... (in fact, I seem to remember it's £10 cheaper if you just get a random key) The only thing you'll have to put up with is having 2 keys for the car, one for the doors and a different one for the ignition. It's relatively easy to change your existing locks to work with a different key, but it's fiddly and may require some other parts which, while not being expensive, will be annoying to get hold of... VAG will supply lock barrels made to a key number for any of the locks on the car at any time, so you could just walk in and order lock barrels for the boot, glovebox and 2 doors with the key number for your new ignition barrel with no problems when you've saved up for them... 8) IIRC, it's around £10 per lock for a barrel to be made up for you...

If you've got the box out, and in bits to fit the new Diff, you'd be a real prat not to get it rebuilt while you're in there... :roll: Just imagine just how f~@$ed off you'd be if you didn't do it now and then something else went wrong with the gearbox a couple of months down the road... :| I went the other way around... Took it for a rebuild and decided to get different 1st and 2nd and an LSD while it was in bits... ;) 8) (and it's all Phat's fault for talking me into it! ) Thanks Phat! :D

nope, not unless they are making new casings and displacers... The 40 and 60 in G40/G60 is the diameter of the displacer in mm... There is NO way to enlarge this part without making new outer housings and actually making a new displacer... The GT70 just Bahn Brenner's version of R1, R2, Stage1, Stage4 what ever you want to call it... They are just marketing terms to describe what work has been done to the charger and as such are pretty meaningless... :roll: In the case of the GT70 Bahn Brenner offers, it's a well flowed and ported charger with an enlarged inlet which is taken to 70mm diameter... A very good package, but NOT a G70... ;) :roll:

I'm pretty sure that you can't repair the ignition lock, you have to replace it... I've got one kicking around here to fit to my car (as well as all the other locks... :? ) which I got from VAG. If you know the key number, you can ask for them to supply a new one to fit your existing key. I can't remember how much it was, but I know it was under £50... 8) I've gone the other way... 'cos I only got one key with my car, I've now got all new locks which are off a new key (I matched the locks to the new ignition key myself) so that no-one else can possibly have a copy of my key... 8) :mrgreen: Have a look in HERE for ignition lock changing instructions A-La Stevemac (IE the slightly destructive but MUCH easier and faster way! ;) :lol: ) Think it's on page 2 or 3... ;)

not my taste at all... :| Looks like it's been done reasonably though...

I don't know the makes, but some of the ones I've seen have been rather poorly made/designed and you run the risk of pulling the threads straight out of 'em as soon as you start driving enthusiastically... :? If it's got a TUV rating, then it's OK... 8)

I've got a complete KR 16V I'll sell if you want it! ;) :D :lol:

you'll probably find that the radio reception goes completely before it leaks as the water gets into the base and kills the electronic booster in there... :roll: I've did mine while doing the moonroof conversion for the same flakey reason... :?

kangarooboy, nope, it's not available seperately... :roll: Time for a new aerial... :(

there's also a screw under the rear ashtray.

I've got an aftermarket alarm AND my boot light works fine... 8) The problem is that the switch sometimes "leaks" slightly when it's aged a bit, and alarms don't like a current leak anywhere on the car as they see it as someone opening a door and so set the alarm off... :roll: When you take the bulb out you loose the way for the current to leak and sort the alarm problem... it's a bodge cure instead of replacing the switch which (I'd bet) is gonna be expensive knowing VW... :roll:

Good point about the 2 session thing Andy, I did mine morning and late afternoon, so I suppose I did leave quite a long break with the sump off... :roll: :oops: A porus sump should not affect the running of the engine unless it's lost all it's oil thru it, in which case you may well seize up the engine by running it dry! :?

rear axle bushes provide flex to give the Corrado a passive rear wheel steering effect. If they're dead, then you'll be getting this effect when you AREN'T going around a corner which will be hi-lighted when braking... :?

Ah, Cool, so I was right with the double answer... 8) :roll:

think the fuel tank may be different too so will need changing... :? AFAIK the fuse box is the same on all Golfs and Corrados of that period, so as long as it looks the same, it should be reasonably easy to plug and play.

yup, just found those pics myself... 8) Made by SIG Automotiv (Neuhausen, Switzerland) NOT VW... ;)

yeah, I'd heard of the G50 (and for that matter I've seen a spec for a G30 too, but don't know any more about that! :?) but didn't know if it ever actually existed... :|

try here: http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... 65&start=3 ;) all the bulb descriptions you could ever want! ;) :D 8)

well spotted Rodders.. 8) I'd missed that link...

ECU = Engine Control Unit As coolrado, says, odds are this is a Blue temp sender fault... the contacts onto the ECU are sealed with a rubber sealant strip. The chances of this being a naff ECU contact are remote IMHO.. It could also be something REALLY simple like the idle screw has moved... :roll: while the engine is warm, disconnect the blue temp sender while the car is idling, then adjust the idle speed with the BIG brass screw on the back of the throttle body (where the throttle cable attaches) so that the idle is where you want it, then re-connect the blue sensor... 8) your idle should then stay around where you set it no matter what the engine temp... 8)

VW pushed the boundaries of production at the time to get the G60 to work... 80mm for the charger was out of the possibilities of the manufacturing AND the materials at hand in the late 80s when the work on the G laders was done... :? If there was a G80, then it was either a one off, or one of 2 or 3 prototypes made..... Why else do you think that no-one else tried to make the G-lader and VW dropped it after a few years? :(

ok, so it's 50% more... :? I'd not seen the 312mm kit that cheap before... 8) I got my 305mm complete kit for aroudn £450 inc. postage from Bill at Badger5...

No. The 60mm diameter of the G60 was the largest that VW could make at the time they were producing them. There may have been a prototype 80mm version, but it never saw any being made for sale...

The exhaust downpipe one should be, as it's almost the same part. I'd guess that cool taping the inlet manifold as it goes over the top of the head would help slightly too, but the VR6 doesn't suffer as badly from inlet heating 'cos it's a cross flow engine where as the 4 cylinder cars have the inlet manifold about 3mm above the exhaust manifold, so the heat transfer is massive... :? I think I'm also going to wrap my cat-bypass pipe as I'm worried about the heat I can feel on the gear gator which has to be coming from that pipe... It can't be good for the linkage bushes to be subjected to that heat all the time... :|

OK, so, I've managed to blow the head gasket... :oops: :roll: Having got the head off yesterday it looks like it may have been slightly blowing since it was first fitted and it was finally tipped over into fully blowing by me finally replacing the dodgy leaky (new! :roll: ) waterpump that I fitted when building the engine... :mad: Hey ho, these things happen (normally to me! :roll:) The gasket had been kicking around in my garage for 6 months or so before fitting and the new one looks much better even though it is another identical genuine VAG one... :roll: So, the head's off now, has been checked for trueness and isn't warped... 8) Unfortunately I've hurt my back and have taken today (and probably tomorrow too) off work to try and let it heal a little (pulled a muscle, nothing serious, just painful and not a good idea to drive with! :?) After an MSN conversation with Alex (Aposegil), I had some ideas for stuff to do while the head's off, so here's the results... (total cost £96 from Demon tweeks for the stuff needed...) 1) JMR hi-flow downpipe has been heat tape wrapped and sprayed with hi-temp silicone spray - should knock the engine bay temps down by upto 50% 8) 2) Underside of the inlet manifold has been treated with (lots of! ;) ) "Cool tape" which is a heat reflective tape and should help keep it cool where it's close to the exhast manifold. 3) The rubber boot around the steering rack universal joints has also been Cool tape'd to make sure it stays intact 4) A slight spot of damage to one of the gearchange cables has been repaired with cool tape... 8)