Henny

cliveyp, rodders was being a touch sarcastic about his location... (he's in Aberdeen, Scotland! ;) )

yup... the fuel pump fires once when the ignition is switched on to pressurise the system, and then only starts firing again once the starter is engaged or the engine is running... 8) Slightly off topic, but you may also find that when the engine is HOT and the ignition is off, the fuel pump still fires every now and then... this is to circulate the fuel so that you don't get evaporation in the pipes making it difficult to start... 8) Clever buggers these EFI designers! ;) 8)

There's loads of threads on here about insurance... Try doing a search for "insurance" and you'll find loads of discussions... 8) Here's a quick link with a load of contact numbers in it... 8) *edit* nuts, beaten to it! :roll: :lol: 8)

8)

1) if you're on standard 15" wheels with standard size (185) tyres, go with the standard pressures as on the B pillar, if you have different sized wheels, it depends on what size wheel and tyre you're using... 2) 1.8 16V Corrado brakes are "reasonable"... cheapest actual upgrade is to stick on a set of G60 calipers, carriers and disks... Personally, I'd start playing with things like DOT5.1 Brake fluid, Goodridge braided flexy hoses, drilled/grooved disks and uprated pads... 8)

nope, on a G60 it fires it for a moment when you first turn on the ignition...

Oooooohhh... neat... 8) 8) 8)

Yup... 8) :lol: I've gone through 2 boxes of gloves this year...

G60Dan, yeah, I did actually think of doing a Haynes style book for a Corrado G60 seeing as I've pretty much replaced the whole sodding car now! :roll: :lol: 8) Eug, :lol: freudian slip? ;) :lol:

Bejeesssuusss... I had a real double take there when I saw that photo! :? Other than the rear lights and 5 studs, that could have been a photo of my car when I picked it up! 8) Borbet C centercaps are available for about £5 each from Scotford (who are the official Borbet importers) Contact 'em by phone 'cos they're crap at email! ;) :roll: Tel: 01789 772409

1) dunno, sorry... 2) unscrew the drivers side lock pull slightly (the knob you use inside the car to lock/unlock the car) Odds are that it's too far down the thread and stopping the lock turning fully... 8)

they clip in, so, as Mike says, they just need levering straight up and out... 8)

nah, that sounds about right... Head gaskets leaking tend to smell of burnt fuel and hot coolant... (trust me on this one, why do you think that photo's got the head on the floor, not on the car?!? :roll: :oops: ) The smoke will be coming off the exhaust manifold which is right at the back on the bottom of that photo... the reason for this is that there is a drain hole in the casting of the inlet manifold below the fuel pipes to allow rain etc to drain off it... To check the pipes for leaks, get a mate to turn on the ignition when the engine is cold and you are looking at the pipes... if one becomes wet, or you can see fuel leaking, there's your culprit! ;) :lol: Seriously, they tend to leak visibly when you turn on the ignition 'cos the pipes are cold and so aren't as supple as when warm so they leak more... I'd place my bet on it being the top pipe on the left hand side... ;)

the speedo needle should rest BELOW the end stop naturally... IIRC it tends to point at the bottom left corner of the dial face (the bit where the curve turns into a straight line across the bottom) If you've placed your needle back on resting against the endstop, your speedo will overread at all speeds... You can simply hook the needle over the endstop to get it from the corner position to pointing at 0... 8)

yup, it's a simple screw fit... Pull the wire off, plonk on the correct sized socket, unbolt and fit the new one.... 8) easy peasy... Just don't do it when the engine is running or when it's hot else you may burn yourself slightly... ;)

Yellow pages? Google for "autoelectrician + yourlocation" (obviously swap yourlocation for where you are! ;)

remember that if you spray all of your lights a darker colour, the reflector MUST still be reflective (and red! ;) ) else you run the risk of being pulled or failing an MOT... Oh, and if someone drives into the back of your parked car at night, it's seen to be your fault! :|

It all depends on how you do the x-flow conversion as to if the Golf G60 intercooler will fit... If you drop the alternator under the charger on an air con pump mount (or similar) then there's no way you could get the pipework to the intake of the Golf's intercooler... you'd need to see how the engine is set up before choosing which intercooler you're gonna fit to make sure that it'll all piece together properly... 8)

I'll stick a step by step on here instead! :D Open the bonnet (duh! ;) ) Looking into the engine bay, you'll see 2 pipes coming up the left hand rear of the enginebay. These are the fuel feed and return pipes. On the end of these is a rubber pipe. One of these goes onto the TOP of the fuel rail (the black plastic rail which runs along the back of the head with 4 electrical injectors on it). Check this for leaks as it's the usual suspect. The other rubber pipe runs onto the bottom of a round metal thing which has a pipe running off the top of it onto the left hand end of the inlet manifold. This is your fuel pressure regulator. Also check this pipe for leaks as it splits too... :roll: There is one other pipe to check too... on the RIGHT hand end of the head, at the back near to the front of the throttle body there is an electrical sensor bolted to a plate attached to the head and the inlet manifold. This has a rubber pipe on it which runs to the right hand end of the fuel rail.. this also can split at either end and drop fuel onto the exhaust manifold... (the electrical sensor is a fuel pressure switch...) See photo below for where the pipes are.... 8) Pink rings = pipe ends to check, pink splodge = Fuel Pressure Regulator which has the pipe under it... 8) (Sorry the photo's of a head not on a car, it's the only one I've got at the moment... :roll: :lol: )

"HIM"? We don't like to mention "HIM".... :lol: Yup, it's a Subaru... (The sodding great big writing down the side of it gives it away! ;) :lol: )

why do you say that dr_mat? (interested, not questioning... 8) ) My thoughts were that if the earth strap is bad, then the battery won't be getting the full output of the alternator which would cause the battery light to come on. It'd also not be charging the battery properly which means that you're not running the engine off JUST the alternator once started, but are also using the battery slightly which would cause the battery to drain rather than charge and would cause the cutting out problems as described as the battery flattens and you run out of power to keep the engine running... It'd also only jump start due to the extra current available from 2x batteries being able to overcome the resistance of the dodgy strap and would run for a few minutes as the boost of charge from the other battery runs out of the car's battery... Shorting to earth normally has some pretty obvious tell tail signs like blown fuses if it's a big enough drain to put the battery light on....

this sound like the earth strap from the battery to the chassis and then the gearbox to me... if that's loose, missing, damaged or corroded (inc. ends) then you won't be getting a good earth to your engine so the alternator won't be charging the battery properly... Worth checking anyway... 8)

The calipers on the rear of a Corrado are Golf MKII GTI ones and are a bag of sh!te... :? They have a huge design flaw in that the outer seal is exposed and gets clogged up with brakedust which eventually causes it to seize up... :roll: MKIII calipers are basically the same, only they are alloy and, IIRC, have a slightly different outer seal which helps them seize up in a slightly longer time frame.... :roll: MKIV calipers are a COMPLETELY different design which does mean you need a new pair of rear flexy hoses to fit them, but the handbrake mechanism is WAY better... 8) Yes, they are more expensive, but you'll not have to change 'em for a long long while, so it's worth it... 8) :D

yup, Golf rad is bigger, but Corrado rad fits in nicely... you may have to make up a small support bracket for the rad bottom mount behind the charger though, as the intercooler may push the corrado rad off that mount... Easy to do though, and well worth it! :D

Apex is the name that Toyota uses in Japan for their sports line (Like Lexus is a different branch too ;) ) I'm pretty sure it was a Subaru, but I'll check tonight on my DVD once I've re-fitted my cylinder head! ;) :D