Henny

yup, did the same myself... :oops: set the fans to blow outta the center vents only and then stick it on speed4... If it's like a small fart than a proper blow, you've put the 2 connectors onto the resistor pack the wrong way around and the fan isn't working properly... :roll: :lol:

Cool! That should shave a few seconds on my 0-60! :wink: :lol: 8)

Open the bonnet and on the firewall at the back behind the engine, there's two bolts that go through the firewall. It's these that the bently manual is on about... 8)

I can probably pop in on the way to the Warrington Club GTI meeting on the first monday of Feb as I'll be over that way then, If you're still stuck, lemme know, and I'll get one for you... 8) Do you have a phone number for them?

OK, I just got back from Stealth (nice bunch down there, dead friendly 8) ) and after a chat that lasted the best part of half an hour, we've decided NOT to change the final drive ratio on my box. It will have VR6 input shaft with 1st, 2nd and reverse cogs (reverse needed 'cos it uses 1st so needs to match VR 1st to work!) complete rebuild with new seals/bearings and the like and a Quaife LSD with the standard final drive ratio. The thinking behind this is that my new engine should be making plenty of low down torque but will still be nice and revvy so having a longer 1st and 2nd, then making the whole gearbox ratios shorter by putting a different final drive in would be a bit pointless... :? This way, I should be able to get a higher speed in 1st and 2nd and then hit third squarely in the power curve to be able to keep going... :D Those of you who have VR6s at the moment, what top speed can you get out of 1st and 2nd (without blowing the engine up! :lol: ) I'm just trying to work out if this is the exact rebuild I want or not... I've got a week or so before they do anything to it as there's no LSDs available until the start of Feb, so I just want to re-enforce my thoughts on this... 8)

Theres at least 2 people here with Corrados fitted with the 20V Turbo lumps... 20 V Turbo (Andy) and 20vee_t(Amy) both have Yellow 20V Turbo Corrados (different ones!) and are pretty active here, they're the people to ask about the swap... 8) There's other people here too, but I'm not as sure of their user names, and the two names above make it pretty obvious what they drive! :lol: :wink: 8)

Right, after a nice conversation this lunchtime, it looks like I'm taking a drive down to Stealth in the morning with my gearbox... 8) Complete rebuild, LSD, VR6 1st and second and a 3.94 final drive... Just over £1500 all in :D After spending the kinda money I have on the rest of the car, I'd be stupid not to splash this last bit on the box while it's out and is the only bit left that I've not done anything to... 8) It'll also save me the trouble of cleaning up the somewhat filthy gearbox! :wink: :roll: :lol:

OK, a little later than planned, but here we go... :wink: :oops: Open the bonnet and undo the pipe from the throttle which comes from the I/C Undo the pipe that comes from the charger going to the I/C Undo the screw that holds the 2 pipes together Jack up the front of the car Undo the inner wheel arch liner screws around the front of BOTH wheel archs, you don't need to remove the liners completely, just loosen the front of 'em... Under the front of the car, there's 2 subframe mounting points, one either side. There's 3 bolts on these points, 2 big ones and a small one in the middle. NEVER UNDO THE MIDDLE ONES!!! You need to remove the 2 larger bolts on both sides. The front bumper will then move if you pull it, BUT DON'T YET! Undo the 2 pipes onto the I/C and then remove them up through the engine bay. Slide the bumper forwards CAREFULLY, you aren't removing it completely, just enough to get at the top mounting bolt on the I/C, it only needs to move about an inch or two... you will have to hook the bumper around the arch liners to move it forwards. There's then 2 bolts at the bottom of the I/C and then one hidden one up at the top of it. Undo these and the cooler will come out. (may need a tug!) Refitting is the reverse... This should take about an hour all in, but take it easy, and be careful when pulling the bumper forwards as it's easy to pull it too far and drop it on the floor ( :oops: :lol: ) Hope this helps and all goes well... 8) Good luck! 8)

There were definately some G60s with the black interior as standard.... Most Red ones have black interiors IIRC... 8)

Don;t forget to change the tensioner for a new one! they're only a tenner, so the parts should come to less than £40 for everything! 8)

Cool, cheers Phat! I'll have a word with Stealth today about an LSD, rebuild, restack and other options... 8)

ABS brain is behind the LH side front kick panel on a 'rado. Take the L/H lower dash shelf off, then take off the outer trim and it's hiding there... 8)

Yup, Manchester or Cheshire (or even part of Staffordshire!) is covered by me on a regular basis! 8)

Dubwhizz is selling his Oettinger G60 Golf for £5K (ish) at the moment, and that spat 3 foot flames at the rolling road on Sunday! :? :lol: 8) The guy sat in the boot didn't seem to quite believe my warning until it did it! :twisted: :lol: There's a video in the rolling road section under Dubwhizz on FastPurple if you wanna see it! 8)

Especially if you'd bodged a 1.8 16V in during a boring summer holiday! :wink: :lol:

The idler pulley (the £40 one) has another pulley that runs along side it (on the outside IIRC, it's a while since I messed with a 16V) I only had to change the idler one, not the other one as well... If the idler dies completely, then it has a habit of bending the other pulley when it dies... This then pretty quickly kills the new idler pulley when you fit it... :roll:

Google is your friend! Use the translate function on either Google or Alta Vista and you should get a damned good idea as to what they're on about! :wink: 8)

Ah now you see i always meant to do this but never got round to it :lol: Could thi dreally make all the difference? Hell yes... :roll: :lol: Electricity don't flow thru most paints very well (if at all!) so you'll be loosing your earth which will switch off the auto-changer making the head unit loose contact with it... Bit of sandpaper and a few minutes rubbing around the mount and see what happens... It may well cure it! 8)

VERY Zender, I agree Kev.... :? There was another tuning/body kit company that used to do all sorts of cars, mainly French, but that's what it reminds me of.. :? (Could be Dimma?) Not my taste at all, but at least it's very nicely executed... 8)

So do I! It's on top of the PC I'm using to write this with now! :shock: :lol: :wink:

Just mention to the place that's fitting your by-pass that you can get lambdas trade price from VAG and that they're not to buy one if they break it, but they're to call you immediately instead.... It's amazing how suddenly they don't break the probe 'cos they won't make their mark up on it! :roll: :wink: :lol: If you're doing it yourself, be careful with the wiring out of the probe, and don't try and force it to turn... Soak the thread in WD40 for a bit if it's really tight, and you should be fine with it... 8)

That should be a good earth, I've got my amp earthed their as it's straight into the backbone of the chassis... :? I take it you've sanded the paint off from around the screw you're earthing via? Other than that, I'd start checking that the main multi-cable between the head unit and the changer is secure at both ends and not damaged in between... What make/model changer/head unit are you running? May jog someone's mind who's had similar problems...

Cheers Kev, I think you may have either just saved me some money, or made me spend some... I'm not sure which yet! :roll: :lol: Time for a rebuild I think! LSD, new 1st 2nd and 3rd and a different final drive here I come! :wink: :lol: 8) Wonder how much a 6th would cost... :wink:

That's how I did it when my head gasket went... It requires some wiggle-woggle joints (yeah, I know they're called universal joints, but that's what I was taught as a temp mechanic and it still makes me giggle!) and extensions on your ratchet to get at the bolts, (+ a bit of contortionism!) but it's a shed load easier than trying to strip the manifolds off in situe! :? Yup, it's a diagnostics port... Leave it alone and you won't have any problems from it... 8)

I lost count of the ammount of times I did that on my first 'rado! :lol: They're pretty much the same unit used on MKI Gtis too, and they often need a little "persuasion" from a hammer to work properly! :wink: :lol: