Henny

:roll: :cuckoo:

Also, you'll need to buy the sump baffle that is attached to the oil pump pickup 'cos it WILL break if you try and remove it from the original pump... :roll: It's about £12 from VAG and is soooooo worth doing... I got a genuine pump from VAG and I think it was just under £90 + the baffle... :?

Yup, there's a little sensor on the G60s just next to the FPR that has a brown and white wire on it... If this thinks that your head is still hot, it'll keep the fan going... (guess how I know! :roll: :lol: ) Dunno about the rest of 'em, but I can't see why it would only be the G60s that do!

yup... My CD one is really good, but it's a pain in the butt having to drag my laptop outside to compare something on the car to the manual! I'd be up for one at the right money... 8)

AFAIK all 'rados will do it, but you may not notice it doing it instantly, if at all... It uses a fuel temp sensor in the engine bay to determine when to do it... 8)

Corrados do run the fuel pump for a while after they are switched off to cool the fuel and prevent evaporation within the lines. This helps with hot starting (you've got fuel rather than vapour coming out of the line!) It scared me the first time I noticed it too! It's nothing to worry about as long as it's not going all the time... 8)

I'm guessing that this is on a 16V engine as that's the only one I know of with an engine breather where you describe... :? If it's the 1.8 (KR block) then IIRC you need to get hold of a special puller to get the breather out of the block. I had one that leaked on my MKI 16V and never managed to cure it while I had it due to the limited space in the MKI enginebay! You may have more luck with the 'rado as there is more room, and, if things get really tough, you can unbolt the front end to get at it fully... :? If it's a 2.0 16V I have no idea as I've never played with one yet, but I'd bet that Alex (aposegil) will know :wink:

on the front bumper, on the left hand side as you look at the front of the car, there's a sensor on the lower grill part (below the indicator/spots). If this or it's wiring has become damaged or has a dodgy contact then it will cause the MFA to skip the display on the screen. If you disconnect the sensor (or it's missing) then you will never get a reading for the outside temp on the screen, it will just skip past to the next option. If it's working sometimes (and is showing a reasonable temp for the weather!) then the odds are you've either got crud in the connector, or a dodgy wire where it goes through the chassis leg. 8) Hope this helps... 8)

Yeah, mine's now crossed the 10K level... :crazyeyes:

Sorry, I couldn't resist that! :wink: Yeah, my G60 inlet is a bit on the rough side (on the outside only, the inside's been flowed!) took a bit of work with some sandpaper to get it to look reasonable enough to paint... It's nice and thick though, I don't think it was cost cutting, just a different casting technique... :?

there's this funny stick thing just next to your left leg, and sometimes a peddle for your left foot to press... You're supposed to use them to change gear every now and then rather than driving everywhere in only 1st at 9000rpm! :roll: :lol: :-P

Welcome to the forum... 8) sounds and looks like a lovely motor you've got there...

I'm pretty sure that Halfords sell a clear engine laquer... I saw it in there last night... It's not very cheap (about £7 IIRC) but it's heat and oil resistant so should help do what you need it to... 8)

There's quite a few threads on here about brakes and nearly all of them come to the conclusion that it's a matter of personal preference and depends on the kind of driving you do mainly... Have a search around (try "VR6 AND Disks" for example) and you'll find the threads I'm on about... 8)

Ah! you should have said to me that you needed instructions when I sold it to you! :wink: I'll dig out the instructions that I used to get it off originally and post 'em up tonight... 8) All of the info I used is on here somewhere, but I collated it all together to make a reasonable guide to how to do it. 8) It's not mega difficult and should be able to be done by a semi-competent mechanic in well under 2 hours... 8)

Which version of the Corrado do you have? If you have one of the later ones with the 3 round heater controls, then there is a thread in the common problems section with a full "how to" guide written by Kevhaywire that should help you solve all of your problems... 8) If it's an earlier one with the 2 slides and a fan switch, then it's probably still covered in there... It'll probably be either a broken control cable (or one that's come off) or a gear having slipped on the heater box. Have a look HERE for details... 8)

Sounds about right... Mine started as a simple project and then a sheared bolt resulted in a bit of overkill :wink: :lol: There's gonna be quite a few of us at Inters this year, there is talk of having a stand down there, so keep an eye out on here for details a bit closer to the time, and I'm sure we'll all meet up and have a laugh! 8)

AFAIK the only way to check 'em without them running is to take 'em off and open them up... I'll have a look at my wiring diagrams tonight for you as I've got them layed out neatly 'cos I'm in the middle of rebuilding my G60 at the moment... 8) $100 is still a total bargain though! :shock:

Cool 8) I've spent slightly more than that on my 'rado recently, and I can't imagine how I'd be if my partner (if I had one at the moment!) told me to get rid of it! :shock: What have you done to it for the money? Sounds like it could be quite and interesting car... 8)

That's a lovely looking G60... I can't believe you've got to sell it now you've done it... :? I'd go mental... :mad: Welcome to the forum by the way... 8) (and please turn your caps lock off!)

Could it be that your waterpump has become noisy too? Just a thought.... If you're sure it's the pulley, I'd have a stern word with VAG about it 'cos that's just silly lasting only a week! :?

Dunno how it sounds... my engine's still in my garage at the moment :roll: I've not run it without the carbon cannister yet, but I'm sure there's plenty of people here who'll tell you how it does sound with this mod. 8)

Nope, I've taken out the carbon canister and put in a pipe to the lower part of the bumper where the brake cooling ducts should be. I get a lovely cold air feed directly into the bottom of the airbox, and it looks standard to the untrained eye! 8) you could run a pipe to the grill, but it's a bit tight for space around there, and the carbon hole is in the perfect location :wink:

There's an idler pulley on the KR engine that freewheels over one of the other pulleys for the waterpump. This has an anti-friction coating on it which breaks down over time. I've had to change the one on my original Corrado as it did exactly as you describe. I recently sold the pulley (I wrote the car off about 3 weeks after fitting it! :oops: ) to Bally (I think it was anyway!) who was having exactly the same problems. The pulley is still available from VW but is about £70 IIRC... I'll get the part number for you when I get home tonight. It's not a difficult job to change it, it just hurts the wallet a bit! :?

Which version of the Corrado have you got? G60, VR6 or SLC? Makes a difference on the wiring diagrams! :wink: Welcome to the forum by the way! 8)