Henny

Meow! :wink: :lol: I'd bet they're still faster than the 1.6 MKII golf driver I'm pootling around in at the moment... And a damn site nicer inside and out! :roll: :lol: I know I'd rather be in any Corrado than this Golf... :(

I've never overlooked the 16Vs! 8) My MKI 16V Golf was a revolation to me when I built it, and even thought I've now got a higher powered G60, I still miss my first 'rado which was a 1.8 16V... The KR lump is exceptionally strong, flexible and well powered for it's size and age... I think that the reason that so many people over look the 16Vs is that the parts to upgrade them are slightly harder to come by and tend to be slightly more expensive... :? Ker-plunk... 8)

Ah, didn't think about your age being a problem... at 28 I forget that it was harder to get insurance when I was younger... :oops:

3? 1.8 16V, 1.8 G60, 2.0 16V, 2.0 8V, 2.9VR6... I make that 5 standard engine types! :wink: :lol: Don't forget the "smaller" brothers, they're still a world class car no matter what powerplant they've got under the bonnet! 8)

Just don't tell THEM that! :roll: :lol: :lol: Seriously though, if you explain to them exactly why you only need a few days insurance, I'm sure one of the recommended insurers (have a search about, there's enough threads on the subject!) will do you a decent deal... 8)

I used HIC... Harry1000 may be right about it being a "bolt on" though, as I was insured with them on a different car at the time as well... :? Phone around and explain what it is you wanna do... I'd bet that some companies would be only too happy to take some money off you as it's gonna be a lowish risk drive in their eyes... 8)

yeah, I know you can get 1 week insurance 'cos I've used it a few times when moving cars about to get 'em sprayed/rebuilt etc... dunno about 1 day though... Probably if you want to spend enough! :? :lol:

Something doesn't sound right if you can't leave an 8V astra for dead... :? Where abouts are you based? May be worth finding someone local to try theirs and see if it's just a perception thing, or if there is something amiss with your G60... 8) Hope you find out what it is... 8)

I did, just in case! :lol:

Yeah, I remember it, and you're right about it being Mike Brewer. It was roughly the time that the Car mag with the yellow G60 on the cover came out with "the great depreciation buster" as the title... 8) Don't have a copy though... Sorry... :?

The occasional backfire isn't uncommon, it probably means that you need to get the timing set up spot on now that the ECU knows if it's coming or going... 8) Stevemac put a post in this thread earlier about the correct way of timing up a G60 engine... Make sure that gets done and you should be grinning in a big way! :D I'm happy that it got sorted for ya, and that you're lovin' the G60 as you should be! (rapid ain't they?!? :lol: 8) )

vr6storm, damn, you beat me to it! :roll: :lol: GringoG60's not got a section in the members gallery yet...

Most car parts places sell HT leads for the G60, they're a pretty standard type of lead with standard ends on it (unlike the 16Vs and VR6s...) They're the same as an 8V golf GTi. 8) Euro Car parts, German Swedish and French, etc etc etc will sell you a full set for not a lot, but the quality may vary... :? The set from VW aren't too expensive and are supposed to be very good, or, as you asked, you can get stuff like Magnacor or Blue Ignitors that will fit pretty easily...

Connect the loose "wire" (it's actually a thin pipe!) to the plug which is sucking air in and watch what happens to how your car runs! (don't do it while the car is running though! :roll: :lol: ) They're exactly the pipes I was on about.. The sucking part should be sucking down a pipe from the ECU to tell the ECU how the engine is running and what fueling and timing the engine needs... 8) Hope you can sort it tomorrow now... 8)

Not yet... I'm in the middle of stripping the interior out to install new gauges, lighting for the dash + switches and my new TV ICE install, so it's not been a high priority yet... I've also recently bought all new front lights after some £%$£ reversed into my car and then drove off... New lights make a hell of a difference too, so when I get an engine and interior back in the car I'll plonk a loom in as well and see what a difference that makes... 8)

Very nice... 8) You just gotta love the leather... :D

Yup, it's behind the side trim panel beside the rear seat. I didn't know if your car was LHD, or RHD, but as far as I know, the brain lives on the RH side behind the side trim on all Corrados.(it'd be a door panel if there was a door there, but I don't know what the correct name for the panel is on a 3 door car! :? )

OK, so the light works, but the switches don't do anything. This helps a lot! 8) The switch lights are powered from the main windows brain (*NOT* Bill Gates! :roll: :lol: ) which is in the side panel on the right hand side of the car. If the lights light up, then it means that the brain has power. Check these following bits out and see if they're all OK with your switch light. The switch should illuminate ONLY when the windows are powered and can be activated. 1: with the driver's door open and no ignition on the light should be on, when closed the light should go out... 2: with the ignition on the light should be on, door open or closed 3: after the ignition has been switched off and the driver's door hasn't been opened the light should be on until the door is opened and then closed after which it should go out. 4: at all other times, the light should be off as the windows should have no power. If all of these are correct for your car, and you've checked both of the relevent fuses, then there are 3 likely suspects. 1: the brain is dead :? 2: the wiring from the brain to the windows has been disconnected or damaged :roll: 3: You've been REALLY unlucky and all 3 electric window switches, or both motors have died at around the same time... :? (very unlikely, but still possible....) Personally I think that the multiplug that goes onto the brain which provides the power to both windows has come off or been disturbed... Check the lists out above, and see what happens! 8)

This is the exact reason that you need the uprated loom! :lol: 8) The wiring to the main beam oxidises over time (the copper in the wire!) and becomes slightly resistive. This resistiveness means that you don't get a full 12V to the headlights any more meaning that your bulbs won't be as bright. The replacement/upgrade loom simply puts in a new feed straight from the battery to the lights via a relay which is triggered by the original headlamp feed. The reason that the lights go brighter when you use the main beam flash (and hold it) is because the flash lights up BOTH main and dipped parts of the bulb. If you keep holding it like this, you'll overheat the bulb and it'll blow! :? As long as you can see that the dipped and main beam are different parts lighting up, then the loom will work and will help to solve the situation... 8)

I'm in the middle of doing this at this exact moment! 8) It's taken me less than an hour to get the hole dash apart, all of the switches out, and the clock cluster out... In total, I'd guess at 3 hours if all goes to plan, possibly more to do the lights in the switches... 8) Well worth it IMHO though... :D

Cool, 8) Cheers Ess Three, I always wondered about LSDs and am now a little bit wiser... 8) Thanks for posting that and clearing things up a bit... :D

Just a quick thought, Make sure that the bolts holding the throttle body on are tight, if they're not, then this will also cause similar problems... :? Good luck! 8)

Yeah, I'd guessed that much... :roll: Which bit has broken though? Do they still go up/down with the driver's door open. Is one stuck, but the other not, etc etc etc... It ain't always just as simple as works/doesn't work, you should know that by now... :? :roll:

Yup, my MKI hasn't been on the road for 6 years in March! :shock: I really do need to get my butt into gear and get her back on the road again, but my flippin' G60 is just soooooo much fun! 8)

We have a suspect! 8) On the back of the throttle body there should be 2 small plastic pipes attached. One of these goes off to the ECU. If EITHER of these is not attached properly, then you'll get this problem as you'll have a vaccuum leak so the ECU won't know what it's supposed to be doing... :? 8) Have a good look there and see if you can see where I mean.