Henny

...or shear the bolt's head off and bend some valves as the sprocket comes off... :? :shock: I've seen that trick mentioned before too and, IMHO, it's too risky as you are turning the engine while stressing a bolt that's potentially going to snap even more. This is putting you in a similar situation as I was when mine sheared at idle... :? This trick does work, I will add that, but I personally wouldn't try it just in case the bolt sheared... :?

Removing the headlamp shouldn't affect the alignment too much as there is almost no adjustment in these 3 screws/holes. The adjustment is internal to the headlamp, so as long as you put the same headlamp back on without messing with the mirror, your headlamp aim shouldn't be affected much... 8)

Also, I thought that the 16V head requires specific pistons else the valves/head won't clear the pistons even when they're closed? There's more to this conversion that just strapping on a head... As I said before, have a word with John (16VG60) and he'll point you in a reasonable direction! 8) I agree with you as well PhatVR6 compression ratios are pretty important to consider when you're force inductioning your engine... If bolting a supercharger to a standard 16V engine is a bad idea, then just bolting a 16V head straight on is probably almost as daft! :?

110mm?!? :shock: Sheeesh, I thought mine was low when she dropped 80mm when I first fitted my coilovers... :? I'm almost glad I didn't make the trip over now... :? 8)

Toby yup, that is a worry. :shock: The bolt is in there somewhat tightly. You're best of getting a garage with an airgun to remove it and fit the new one as you are unlikely to be able to undo it with a bar unless you can get the car well up in the air while being on all 4 wheels. The best way (I've been told) to undo the bolt with a bar is to put the car in gear with someone sat in the car with the brakes on HARD and chocks under all of the wheels to make sure that it can't move off the 4 post ramps... :shock: An airgun does just sound a hell of a lot easier! :roll: :lol: At least if the bolt DOES shear off when you are trying to get it out you haven't damaged any of the internals of the engine ('cos it's not running!) and you know that it probably would have snapped off soon anyway! :shock: You've also then got it in a place you can work on it and will probably be able to get the broken bit out with a set of reverse taps. 8) Banana Man's probably a better person to ask about removing this broken bit as I just cheated and have had the block rebuilt! It's someone else's problem then! :lol: :wink: Good luck to anyone who tries to do this, please put up a comment on how you did it and how it went here so that people can gauge how likely theirs is to snap and how is best to do it! 8)

new clip + new pipe = £10 max + 20mins fitting time... New engine bay wiring + other repairs due to engine fire = how much was your car?!? :? You know it makes sense to sort it properly... 8)

It sounds like the pipe that is used to feed the actuators with air pressure/vacuum has split somewhere. It's probably just a case of trying to find the leak in the pipework and sealing it back up. 8) Check by all door hinges (these are common fracture points), by the pump (in the boot), and under the passenger side of the dashboard (there's a connector there that sometimes leaks!) Good luck!

Ah, it'll be a totally different design then... :roll: Sorry, I can't help in that case... :?

front disks or rears? :?

Change the pipe clip for a new jubilee clip, and possibly the piece of pipe for a new one... :roll: The spring clips that VW use for holding pipe on tightly are pants and loosen with age as the spring steel becomes looser... Also, the fuel pipes are renowned for becoming porus near to the ends and letting fuel leak out. I had the same problem on my G60 after I put the new head on it and I was as worried about it catching fire as you seem to be. Get it sorted soon... Fuel fires in the engine bay aren't funny... :?

Sounds like either a dodgy oil pump or a dodgy oil pressure sensor/wiring to the sensor... I'm pretty certain that the beeper only sounds when you've got very low oil pressure being detected by the sensor (or the wire's broken!) what engine has your Corrado got? It'll make the replies more relevent to your problem... 8)

Most VW 8V engine AREN'T crossflow, so engines like the PG (G60) are much improved by the addition of a crossflow head and suitable manifolds. 8) I dunno much about the VR6, but I do know that the 16Vs ARE crossflow. For those who are wondering, cross flow actually means that the inlet and outlet are on opposite sides of the head usually with the valves in line with the flow through the engine (ie one at the front, one at the back of the head). A standard G60 head has the valves in a line across the head (ie next to each other, not front and back) and has both inlet and exhaust manifolds on the back of the head. This means that the gas has to go through a hell of a lot of turns to get into the cylinders and then back out again. This is why gas-flowing the head can produce so much bigger improvements on a G60 than on a 16V...

Very nice 8) Interesting choice of tax disk location too... :lol:

If it's anything like a 7514, take a look at this picture... 8)

DX engine 6 sided bolt : Part number: VN 040 106 4 This is IMHO a better bolt, just don't forget to put some thread locking compound on it when you fit it! Oh, and, steveo29, you've just managed to upset me... I've just looked at my receipt and it's only 77p + VAT! :cry: :cry: :cry:

Wish I had... :roll:

G60JAY I thought about this too, but driving the S/C belt is a force which is exerted mainly in the wrong direction (actually it's the wrong plane, if I'm going to be technically correct!) for snapping the bolt... If driving the S/C were the main problem, then the key on the cam belt sprocket would shear off and cause the whole lot to stop spinning, not to shear the head of the bolt off... :? H100VW, The pinking and other symptoms only happen with the 8V GTI engine... With the G60 there is no warning symptoms that I've heard about, the engine just stops running like you'd stalled it... :shock: :? My G60 was running the best I'd ever had her 'cos I'd just put a new, gas flowed and ported head on about 5 days before the bolt sheared... :shock: :cry:

Congratulations! It's always nice to know that there's another person out there that's been helped to keep another C on the road! 8) Enjoy your drink! :)

Depends what the damage is... I was lucky in that the pistons didn't touch the valves (as far as I can tell at the moment!) but I know that Banana Man's bent a couple of valves when it came off... :? Some people have been able to get the bolt out with a reverse tap (basically a drillbit that turns the other way and is tapered so it should turn the bolt out as it bites into the bolt) I decided that seeing as my engine had 250K miles on anyway, it was time for a rebuild! :lol: Have a look in my galary section (Henny's J-Dub) for more info... 8) If you can't get the bolt out with the engine in the car, then you're stuck with having to get the engine out and taking it to an engineering workshop who can drill it out on a lathe and re-tap the thread afterwards, or a new crank... :shock: Either way, it's not good! :? :(

YAY! You da man! Anyone who uses a BIG hammer gets my vote! :lol: I'll have to try not taking it fully off next time I need to do one... Glad you got it sorted anyway... 8)

The late model 8V MKII golf GTIs have a similar problem with this bolt... On MKII 8Vs (late ones only, for some reason!) the bolt works loose. This damages the keyway and key meaning that there is no drive to the cambelt as the pulley is free to spin on the crank! :shock: I've seen this on several MKII golfs, it starts off as the engine not running right, normally it starts to pink a lot and be a sod to tune up. This is because the sprocket is wearing the key away and turning slightly on the crank so throwing the cam timing out gradually... Not good... :? I think (and this is just my engineering thoughts on it after mine sheared off) that the reason that the G60 suffers from the bolt shearing more than any of the other VWs is the size and width of the pulleys attached to the crank. On a 16V, for example, you've got the same number of pulleys attached to the sprocket, (2!) but both of them are just V belts to drive the P/S and alternator/waterpump respectively. They're both really quite narrow and to don't exert a huge amount of twist onto the bolt. By twist I mean pulling the pulleys towards the front of the car, which will exert all of the pressure on the hinge point which is the part of the bolt where it is no longer in the threaded part of the crank. Now look at the 2 pulleys on a G60 engine and you'll see that the Supercharger belt is a LOT wider than a V belt and under a hell of a lot more tension than a normal V belt. Then you've still got the normal tension on the P/S pump belt, but this is now 2 or 3 times further away from the hinge point on the bolt. As "torque = force x distance " you can clearly see that there is a hell of a lot more torque exerted on this point of the bolt in a G60 engine. Now here comes the interesting bit... This bolt is a stretch bolt was designed to stretch a small amount only and you're now exerting quite a significant torque SIDEWAYS across this bolt which is continuously changing direction due to the engine turning. This is basically introducing a wobble to the equation which will weaken the bolt even more as it's not under a constant force (which it would take) but is under a varying force (basically acting in all directions) which the designers probably never even thought about. This causes it to stretch slightly more than it's tollerance and eventually shear off flush with the end of the thread in the crank which is where the hinge point it. (I'll put money on that banana man's bolt sheared in EXACTLY the same place as mine on the bolt.) To sum it up, it's a crap design! :roll: :? Putting a hardened, non-stretch bolt in will make this problem disappear for a LONG while, but even that bolt may well suffer the same failure... however not within the life of the engine! :) Jees, that went on a bit didn't it... Sorry! :oops:

Yeah, Joe M you've hit the nail right on the head... It's just adjusting the heights of each corner to put the car at a level so that each corner has a certain amount of weight on it... It's nothing to do with the damping rates whatsoever... Mine are non-adjustable for damping, but being a coilover, obviously the height is adjustable! :lol: It's not a massively complex thing to do, but it is somewhat time consuming... I paid about £150 to get mine all set up, and that was a mates rate! :shock: Kev, regular standard struts should already be pretty close to the optimum settings, that's why standard C's handle so well from the factory... 8) It's only when people start trying to get the stance of the car to look the way they want it to and have the asthetics more important to them than the way that the car handles that the handling gets screwed up... :roll: Unfortunately some of the aftermarket spring/shock kits also work on a more asthetic stance than for handling, especially the ones that drop the car right onto it's arse... :?

You called?!? :lol: Yup, Although my car isn't on wheels and has no engine or gearbox at the moment, she's still got the supersport coil-overs and I still like how they are, and how they look and would recommend them! 8)

Yup, I agree Darren, I was really suprised how much difference it made to the handling of the car when I had mine done... :shock: 8) VR6, Corner weighting tends to be a bit of a specialist thing... I got mine done at a local garage that does race prepping for a load of different types of car (rally, formula ford, racing TTs etc...) Basically they stick a set of scales under each wheel at the same time and then adjust the coilovers until you've got a perfect weight distribution (should be done with you in the drivers seat!) both side to side and front to back... IIRC the perfect distribution on a front wheel drive car is 70/30 front to back (I may be wrong with these figures) I just trusted the guy who did mine 'cos I've known him for years and he's GOOD! 8) Obviously it should be 50/50 side to side :roll: :lol:

So do I take it that the bumper in the first post doesn't exist then?!? That's the one I want, not the big square one on the topless 'rado... Not my taste at all... :(