Henny

Well, if it uses the ABS pump and an altered version of the ABS brain to work, so I'd hazzard a guess that it's only a available on cars with ABS as well...

That'd be me then! Yup... My thoughts exactly! :wink: 8) Problem being the women bit never seems to happen after the beers... :roll: :lol:

yeah Mike16V, I know where you're coming from on that... I visited DubWhizz a few years ago in my old 16V C up in deepest, darkest Yorkshire in winter and ended up staying a couple of extra days due to siezed rear calipers... :? MK4 or, IIRC, late MK3 calipers are alloy and have the handbrake mechanism and spring at the bottom so that they don't sieze up... 8) Much better!

mmm, nice.... How much? Gonna have to fit a drain pipe soon, so it may as well be a good one! :wink: :lol:

WVW***50 z MK011*** That's your M Aparently the later front wings are wider than the earlier ones... I've yet to compare 2 cars to see the difference, so I can't comment more than that... It's a fair bet you'll have later wings if: You've got an up-y not down-y bonnet, You've got flush fitting fogs and indicators in the front bumper, You've not got brake cooling ducts (although if you have it doesn't mean that it's an older one! :roll: ) The trim line on the front bumper simply fades out at the same level as the rest of the line rather than sweping around and finishing on the top surface of the bumper. You've got a 3 slat grill (with no modifications) And that's about all I can think about, unless you've got a 1.8 16V handy to compare with, 'cos then you'd be able to compare the wing, ( :? ) headlamp and rubbing strips to see if they're the same or not... :lol: Good luck!

Does the fan not work on any speed? If it only works on the fastest speed (4) then the thermal fuse has blown... The thermal fuse is part of the resistor pack and is there to make sure that you don't overheat the resistor pack and set the car on fire! It's only a few pence for a new fuse and it's quite easy to fix... 8) There's a thread around here that'll tell you how to fix that... If it just plain doesn't work at all, then I'd suggest taking the plug off the fan motor and checking for Voltage on it when the fans are on... If there's voltage, then the fan motor has died, if not then you've got a wiring problem... 8) If there's no voltage at all, then the next most likely (assuming that you've checked the fuse box for dead fuses! :roll: ) is the fan switch which are also known to give up... :? Good luck!

Oooohhh!!! Snap! :roll: :lol: Same wheel, same size, and same thought about the sizes... :? 8) Oh, and have a look at my 'rado's pictures to see what my G60 looks like with a 350mm Momo Race wheel... 8) *EDIT* Sod it, here's the photo!

:lol: :roll: 8) I'm actually re-doing my ICE install this weekend while I can't do anything to the engine (it's still down south somewhere!) so I'll be doing the same trick as I'm hoping to run a load of data and video wires on the drivers side with audio and power on the passenger side! :wink: :shock: I'll also make up a loom for my nice new AutoMeter gauges and fit them with the panel I bought from Struan... (ScottCorradoG60) 8)

dave0280, yup, you're correct... If your C had electric mirrors (and I think that they all did) then they are heated. They are controlled by the same circuit as the rear screen, as are the heated washer jet nozzles, so they only come on when the rear screen is switched on... The elements sometimes burn out, especially if someone's left the rear window switched on for ages... :?

If you're feeling lazy, just take out the passenger seat out and run the power down one side of the passenger side floor, and the audio leads down the other (sill side and tunnel side)... If you still get hum with a 2foot air gap between them, you've got something else really wrong somewhere! 8) I've done most of my cars wiring this way and I've never had a problem... I'm also a broadcast engineer by trade and so I'd know if there was something wrong! :wink: 8)

That's the hall effect unit that failed on yours... It replaces the points on a traditional mechanical distributor, basically just a coil that detects when the dizzy spins past a certain point and gives out a signal that is used to fire the plugs. They need the amplifier to convert the low level signal given by the hall effect module into a 12V output that the coil can turn into a high tension pulse to fire the spark plugs... 8) These do fail too, but if the guy who came around narrowed it down to the amp, then he'd probably have tested the hall effect sensor first to narrow it down... It's a good point though, Adam. 8)

:roll: :wink: 8)

I agree with doing the cheap stuff first dr_mat, but I said to get the CHECKED first! It should be very cheap for a garage to CHECK them, and as I also said, there's no point in spending money on getting the tracking all set up to find out that the bushes are dead and need replacing and then having to get the tracking done AGAIN... :roll: Also, one I just thought of, check your tyre pressures! As daft and simple as that sounds, it can make one hell of a difference to the way a car handles! Even if you've only got one tyre that's low/high it'll make itself known through the handling... :?

Could be lots of things causing this... My first question would be to do with suspension set ups, have you had the tracking set up properly INCLUDING castor/camber? This will make a hell of a difference if it's wrong. :? Firstly, I'd get the suspension bushes checked out... If you've got dead bushes (especially in the wishbones) then this would pretty much give the symptoms you've described above too... then if the bushes proove to be OK, then get the tracking sorted properly... (don't do it the other way around 'cos once you've changed the bushes you'll need the tracking setting up again! :roll: )

YAY! I bought some new toys for J-DUB! 8) A quick thanks to Leew and scotcorradog60 as well... Leew for pointing me in the direction of http://www.vwspeedshop.co.uk/pg/cataloguepages.htm which is where I got my new gauges from, and scotcorradog60 for the mounting panel which will replace the ashtray area in my car... 8) (Struan? the VDO gauges you sold me are going into my MKI! 8) ) Whaddya think of 'em then? :?:

chubbybrown, that "wafer like thing" is the bit I listed as It'll be your electronic ignition amplifier that's gone belly up then... Not normally expensive to replace and stupidly easy to change too! :D

:shock: :(

You can get fined quite a bit for it, but I think it's because you're not putting other road users at risk by not wearing a seatbelt. AFAIK all points endorsable offences are based around causing risk (or actual damage) to others around the vehicle...

yup, the points thing is real.... :shock: It's about the only way that they'll get people's attention from their phone long enough to obay the new law if they realise that they could loose their licence, job, etc, etc, etc if they don't stop using a hand held while driving! :? :lol:

No. There, a short and simple answer for you! :lol:

I read somewhere that VW wanted to promote the VR6 as a tourer rather than a street legal racer which was pretty much how they promoted the G60.... "Keep up with the Porsches, not with the Joneses" was the slogan used on a G60 promo poster I've got. :roll: :? Brake ducts were, aparently, seen as too much of a link to a race car, so they scrapped them... :shock: :? Bit of a pants idea scrapping them, if you ask me... :? *EDIT* although the post above seems more likely! :roll: :lol:

I was never a fan of white corrados, but they seem to be growing on me recently... Very nice... 8)

Erm, sorry stevemac, but that's not right... Not all 'rados had brake ducts... My G60 didn't and most late G60s with the face lifted front and VR6s tended not to have them, although a few were fitted with them from the factory... It seems to depend on the mood of the factory workers on the late 'rados... :? :lol: There's a blanking panel on the drivers side (where the air temp sensor is) and the normal duct to the intercooler on the passenger side on my car, however the inner wheel arch liner has the markings for where to cut out for the brake ducts but they weren't cut out at the factory.... :? Mine are now cut out thanks to my Dremel! :lol: 8) Also, brake disk warping is a myth... :? It's actually caused by a reaction between a hot disk and the pad cooling that changes the chemical compound of the disk to become harder in one area that causes the "warping"... :shock: Read this for better details, it may change your driving habits too! http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/war ... s_myth.htm

The story doesn't end there though... Shell only bought the engine, they supplied a BRAND NEW engine to replace it.... The new engine blew up after only 20K miles :roll: :shock: :lol:

ISV clogged? (Idle Stabilisation Valve) :? 8) Do a quick search for ISV and I bet you'll find a LOAD of helpful ideas! :lol: