Henny

... if you can find the fault... :roll: I described corrado maintenance as being like a Giant Mechano set to Danger Mouse last night... it's mainly only nuts and bolts to replace bits at the end of the day... :wink: :lol: Saying that, I once described a computer as only being "burnt sand, plastic and a bit of lead..." puts it in perspective don't you think! :roll: :lol:

£100 for a battery?!? Keeeerrrriiisssstttt... Is it gold plated or something?!? :shock: £67.21 from Euro for a Bosch one, or £50 for a non-named one... takes all of a couple of minutes to fit it too! I'd guess on a VR that the speed sensor is one of the timing sensors if it's stopping it from running... I'm sure one of the VR owners here will clarify that shortly! :lol: 8) (Kevhaywire?!?)

OK, this is from memory, and it's been a while since I've done it, and I've had a drink tonight, and it's 1AM, and I'm hoping that I do remember correctly that you've got a G60, and.....! :? :lol: Disconnect your battery (before you even think about doing anything else!) Remove the airbox (needed for access space!) De-tension the S/C belt and pull it off the alternator pulley. Remove the alternator cover (2 small nuts IIRC) Disconnect the 2 wires (big red one and little blue one) Undo the bolts that hold the alternator on (3 IIRC) Your alternator is now not attached to the engine, HOWEVER, there's some sliding metal collars inside the holes where the bolts go into the alternator that clamp onto the bracket... You need to lever these back into the alternator (or bracket, I forget which) and then the alternator just lifts off... 8) Refitting is the reverse! :lol: 8) Good luck! 8)

I find faults like these are a swine to diagnose without actually being able to look around the engine and work it out with the car there... :? I hope this lot helps... 8) If you've no spark, use a digital multimeter to check for Voltage across the coil on the low tension side of it (the thin wires, not the thick one that goes to the dizzy! :? ) both when you turn the ignition lights on and then while you crank the engine over. You should get a pulse reading around 6V when you first turn the ignition on, and then a constant reading of between 0.5 and 2V when the engine is cranking... (This is what my Golf does as I just tested it! :roll: :lol: ) If there's volts there on turning on the ignition but 0V when cranking: 1) it's possible that your starter switch has died... (Yeah, I know it's one of my "cures all electrical problems" suggestions, but it's worth testing! :lol:) Turn the ignition on, and then, with a THICK bit of wire, touch between the LIVE of the battery, and the live of the solenoid on the starter motor. This by-passes the starter position on the switch so if the car fires up and runs then you know that it's the switch... 2) There's a problem with the wiring from the fusebox, check that all of the multiplugs are in properly and look for broken / disconnected wires If there's 0V when turning on the ignition AND when cranking then you've: 1) blown a fuse 2) got a wire that has broken or fallen off 3) got a dead coil (although you've changed this and it's unlikely to be this now. 4) got a multiplug that's fallen off the back of the fusebox 5) you're testing in the wrong place! :roll: :lol: sorry, couldn't resist that 6) got a dead ignition amplifier / ECU If there's voltage both when turning on the ignition and while cranking then you've: 1) got a dead hall sender 2) got a dead dizzy cap or rotor arm 3) got a dead HT lead between coil and dizzy I think this covers just about everything I'd test for... :? Good luck, and I hope you find out what it is and that it's a simple fix! 8)

:cry: that was 2 days before my engine died... :cry: It was a good show though... :D It's worth a try to get CCGB and the forum to have stands next to each other... Can you imagine how stunning it'd look with that many 'rados all together?!? 8)

Ignition switch = 1hour labour tops + £15 for the switch (or do it yourself... someone wrote a nice thing here describing how to do it! :wink: ) http://corrado.atx-hosting.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=4495 (about 10 replies down!) 8)

How much of one do you need? I've got half (the half the G60 badge is supposed to go on - Passenger side) that you can have for the price of the postage if you want... The other half is probably in a roadsweeper at the Trafford center along with my headlight glass and my original G60 badge... :( Interested? PM me! 8)

Nah, 'snot strange, I know Superchips list 'em too... 8) I have no idea how good they are 'cos I've no experience with the 2litre 16V engines, only the un-chipable 1.8's... :?

Last year was my first inters... Definately gonna go early to the next one, probably late Friday too... 8)

Sorry, VR6 I just couldn't resist that! :wink: :lol: At least you got there in the end... :) (Ok I'll go away now!)

Maybe, but you still forgot to move it! :roll: :lol: :lol:

yup, I broke mine while taking the engine out... :? bit of a naff design if you ask me... :roll:

Lowering 30 to 35 mm all around on a good set of coilovers (adjustable damping if you're feeling flush :lol: ) is definately the way to go with the suspension on a 'rado. Makes one hell of a difference and if you get a reasonable kit and get it set up properly, it won't screw the ride up too much either and will put one hell of a grin on your face... 8)

It depends on what the REAL milage is... I got stung by this one when I bought my current G60... I bought it with about 97K on the clock and later found out that the real milage was closer to 210K :shock: I didn't think that the car could have been clocked as it was such a nice looking one after some of the dogs I'd seen. It also handled really well, sounded lovely and went like a rocket! :D I did get it reasonably cheap though 'cos I pointed out a few bits and bobs that were wrong with it :wink: and knocked a few hundred quid off what was already not a high price... I'm not that bothered about it being clocked now, I know that it has been and that it's never been smashed which is all I'm bothered about now 'cos I'm replacing just about every thing that moves on it anyway! :lol: Bear in mind that I throw about 20K a year at my C with ease and VR6 South sold this one 4 years ago with 120K, it could well be competing with mine for the highest milage after one high milage user! :shock: Also, the easiest way to clock a car is just to swap the clocks for another one... If the milage is clocked, then a 141K mile set of clocks is gonna be cheaper to buy than a set with only 60K on them... :?

The first thing that comes to my mind is top mounts... :? They can crash around and cause all manner of weird and wacky bangs and crashes when they're on the way out... Good news is that they're not too expensive or difficult to do.... Slightly labour intensive, and you need to get the tracking done afterwards, but nothing anyone who can use a spanner can't handle... 8)

If it's got the wheel arch extensions on (black plastic) or any body kit that covers the wheel arches, be very careful to inspect behind these as much as possible as the rear arches are a sod for rotting... Also take off the filler cap and check inside for signs of rust on the top of the filler neck... If it's rotted through then it could mean a new pump and injectors if it's a GTI, at best you'll need to dredge the crap outta the tank... :? 'A' reg golfs should all have been wax injected from the factory, so any major rust or repairs on the sills (inner and outer) is a bad sign. A buckled wheel isn't a good sign of being looked after and having no history isn't too great either... I've not looked at the prices of MKI's for a long while (I think it would scare me when I work out how much I've spent on mine and how much it's not worth at the moment!) so I don't know if £1800 is dear or not... Buy a "THE GOLF" magazine and have a look in the classifieds at the back 'cos there's a good buyers guide there and some to compare prices with... 8) Good luck! MKI GTI's still rate as one of my top 10 cars of all time and every time I get to drive one I still end up with a huge silly grin! :lol: 8)

Which engine has your C got? More info usually gets more help... 8)

Woah, cool link, He's only 5 minutes from where I work too! I can see a nice set of autometer gauges in my near future! :D :lol:

VAG main dealer... 8) They're only about £15 over here... I'm sure your local VW dealer in the states will have 'em in stock too as they're used on most VWs and fail quite regularly... :roll:

Hell yeah, sounds great to me... I should have a 'rado back in one piece by then too! :roll: :lol:

It's good to hear that you got your broken bit out Banana man... 8) How much damage did it do to the internals when yours went? Have you still got the broken head part of the bolt? I'd place money on that it's almost identical in length to the one that snapped on mine... 19mm from the bottom of the flange to the end of the thread where it snapped... :? Mine's now sat on my window-sill of shame with all of the other bits of cars I've managed to either kill or blow up! There's a con-rod out of a MKI 1600 engine that came out of the side of the block, :shock: A valve that's decidedly bent out of a head where the camshaft snapped, a bit of the alloy from my first 'rado which was smashed off by going up the kerb sideways and backwards when I wrote her off, a piece of rusty chassis box section from my Type2 van, and now this bolt head from my G60... :? I seem to be building up quite a collection... I really must stop! :roll: :lol:

By inside edge, do you mean between the hub (bit at the center of the disk wot sticks out) and the flat braking surface, or do you mean on the back of the disk where the pad is supposed to grip? If it's between the hub and the flat braking surface (either side of the disk), then a gap of about 1/2 inch is about right as this is a section that the pad doesn't touch so surface rust is to be expected there... 8) If there is a rusty patch in the middle of either surface of the disk, then you have a real problem which needs looking into... :shock: Squealing tends to be caused by the brake pads vibrating against something... A good coat of copperslip on the surfaces of the edge of the pad which makes contact with the caliper and carrier should prevent this, especially if you use the anti-rattle springs that should come with new pads.... I wouldn't worry about a little bit of squealing while bedding pads in, if it keeps doing it though, have a good look at them and think about some more copperslip! :D 8)

Just to clarify things a bit... If the bolt shears and you are driving the car, it's as if the engine has just stalled... The problem is that the momentum of the car is still turning the crank but not the cam so the valves will stop in which ever position they feel like until one of the pistons hits them... :shock: Think about it, you're driving along at 4K rpm and the bolt shears... yes, the engine is no longer powering the car and should stop almost dead, but until you dip the clutch (and even slightly after that due to momentum) the crank of the engine is still turning at 4K rpm as it's being turned by the wheels through the gearbox... If the bolt shears while you are trying to remove it using the starter motor then, again, the cam is stationary and the starter motor suddenly has a whole shed load less resistance so spins faster with less time for you to let go of the switch... If the bolt shears while trying to remove it with a long bar or air gun, then it's VERY difficult to damage the valves/pistons as the engine is not turning and has no momentum to make the pistons go anywhere... :wink: IMPORTANT: Remember, it only takes one complete revolution of the engine with the cam stationary to bend some valves. The PG engine is an interference engine so the valves WILL hit pistons unless the cam is spinning too, or you are exceptionally lucky with where the cam stopped turning... :? H100VW I tend to agree about the bolts probably having been removed though, I know of several local garage mechanics who know about the bolts coming loose on some of the engines, so they remove it during a cam-belt change, put a bit of thread lock on it, and put it back in... :shock: I've managed to educate a couple of them, but some reckon it's almost impossible to snap a stretch bolt and so won't listen... :roll: I have no idea of the history behind my engine, but I know it's been clocked by 110,000 miles + and that the guy I bought it from "lost" the service history that he had, probably at the same time the milage became slightly more acceptible! :roll: It's my own fault for not checking it out properly before I bought the car as I just assumed that a 100,000 mile car would look pretty much like mine did... The thought that an extra 110,000 miles had been taken off the clock never crossed my mind... :? :roll: I'm guessing that my engine's been rebuilt at some stage in the past, I know the S/C had been seen to by Jabba a couple of times before I went there 'cos it was them who told me of it's past, higher milage, life... :( I also guess that the bolt on mine has been removed and put back in at least once! :? At least I know it won't be used again this time! :roll: :lol:

If by hard to start you mean that you turn the key to start it and nothing happens until you wiggle the key then it's likely to be a broken ignition switch... Check this thread out for details on how to change it... http://corrado.atx-hosting.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=4495 Cheap and easy to fix too... 8)

yeah, it's a bit of a bugger that this bolt effectively holds the pulleys on that drive all 3 belts including the cam belt! :? Makes it messy when it breaks! :roll: