Henny

I'd agree with GazzaG60... I did mine last week and it's a complete @#$£ to get at the top nut otherwise... You should be able to get away with just removing the top hose from the rad and block and the rubber pipe from the S/C to the I/C. If you then take out the drivers side headlamp and the battery, you can remove the 4x 10mm (head) bolts that hold the fan housing onto the rad. Remove the wiring from the fan and the thermo switch on the rad and the housing should come out with a small amount of turning... You can then get at the nut to undo it... 8) I also decided it was time to do my oil cooler while I was in there... :? Not an easy job on a G60! :shock: Made a hell of a difference though... It's dropped the oil temp by about 6deg no matter what kind of driving I do! :D

:oops: Well after destroying the sensor on the side of the head on my G60 last week just before I went off on holiday (hence no replys from me for the last week! 8) ) I can safely say I was wrong before... Sensor on side of head = pressure sensor (which go fragile with age! :roll: ) Sensor at front near block = Pressure sensor Sensor at front near rad = temp sensor The wiring pics I put up should be correct though 'cos my C has just done the best part of 1000 Miles this week at 32.MPG, 54mph ave with no problems at all! I've never managed to get her over 27mpg before! :lol: Oh, and the pressure sensor on the side of the head is the same as the one on the KR 1.8 16V engine closest to the block on the oil filter head! Glad I've got 2 16V engines knocking about! :roll: :lol:

The new legal limit is 70% light transmission. This means that if your glass does not allow 70% + of the light through (into the cabin :lol: ) then you will get told to remove the tints... The new legislation also allows the police to impound the vehicle immediately to stop you driving it in "a dangerous, unroadworthy condition" :? Most counties will be getting the meters in nearly all of their traffic cars within the next couple of months... If you've got REALLY dark tints, get 'em tested before you get stopped else you may end up in the middle of nowhere with an impounded car! :shock: Oh, and just 'cos the police had a tinted T5, doesn't mean that you can get away with it as the legislation only just got passed and the only way you could argue would be if the car that stops you had dark tints... :( Finally, AFAIK, this ONLY affects the front windscreen and front door windows. These are legally needed to be a minimum of 70% but you should be able to argue that you use the car as a VAN and so aren't able to use the rear windows! :lol: As long as you have both door mirrors they shouldn't be able to do squat... :D I wouldn't like to test that theory though... :roll:

Hi! The motor is the same as MKII golf/jetta... I think also passat as well, but I could be wrong on that... Get one from somewhere like Euro Car Parts for a MKII golf and swap your resistor pack over.... If the pack had blown you wouldn't be getting the 12V on the terminals that go into the motor... :D I've replaced mine with a MKII golf one and it works beautifully now, I had to mend the resistor pack on mine though 'cos one of the components had blown and I was damned if I was gonna spend £70 for the resistor pack alone! :shock: It's an easy job to do, just make sure you are careful to put all the screws back in the dash tight else you'll have more rattles than mothercare! :lol:

Ooooh, looks nice... Where d'ya get it from, and how much was it? Something I'm thinking of doing to my G60 at the moment to start the ball rolling on the 2litre conversion I'd like to do... :D

Hi Again! I did mean both pressure senders and if the MFA is now working, leave the temp sender, if it's not, yeah, replace all 3... It won't cost you a fortune and you'll have the peace of mind that they'll probably never cause you any problems again! :? :D Can't hurt anything but your wallet can it?!? :lol:

As far as I've been able to work out, they're all mechanical, so all you do is put in a T piece ti the existing S/C pipework and then run a pipe to the gauge... No senders required... :D If you have a look around on the site for the G60 carbon cannister removal instructions, there's several places that mention where to put the T piece... 8) I think I may have found ONE electronic Boost gauge, but it's Digital and costs 130quid! :shock: May have to get one though, 'cos it looks cool! :roll:

Hiya! The senders just screw in like a bolt... As long as your engine's not running, you won't loose much oil, (maybe a few drops) 'cos it won't be under pressure and can't run out upwards! :lol: I'd cost up changing both senders, but if that's too expensive, try to get the front sender and connect the wiring the same as mine... With any luck, it should all start working properly again and, with a bit more luck, you shouldn't have any problems with either temp, or pressure warnings from then on... :? :D The only thing to be aware of when fitting or removing these senders is that they are made of brass and so are very soft... DON'T over tighten them else you'll snap 'em off and leave yourself in a VERY sticky situation! (Voice of experiance here from snapping one off in a 25year old beetle... :roll:) Changing the connectors is rarely a bad idea as long as you get good connections on 'em and make sure that the terminals you use are insulated properly... :) Once again... Good luck! 8)

Congratulations! It's an aftermarket pressure sender! :roll: :lol: That's the BIG sender at the front of the filter mount. This could well be the cause of ALL your hassles... Time to go to VAG and buy a standard one so you can put the car back to standard to make sure you know what's happening... :? 8) The green wire with the burnt end is probably why your light keeps coming on and beeping... If it touches anything earthed it'll think that you've run out of oil pressure and set off the warning! :? Two can play at the digital camera lark... :lol: Here's a couple of photos of my G60 engine so that you can see what should be connected where... Oh, and one so you can see what a coolant leak REALLY looks like! :shock: :roll: Don't worry about being a pain in the ass... If I thought that I wouldn't help! :D :wink:

There's a word for people like you! :lol: It's easily done if your engine bay is anything like as mucky as mine is at the moment... :shock: I think I'll give it a damn good clean this week while I change both of the plastic coolant pipe flanges that have started to leak, and the front engine mount that's soooooo soggy it's made my new SS exhaust start to blow... :shock: :roll: Does it work now? and if it does, what kind of temps are you reading?

Well that saves me starting a new thread asking whether you need a boost/vacuum gauge, or just a Boost gauge on a G60... :lol: Guess I'll start looking for a nice boost/vacuum gauge that doesn't say TURBO across it... :roll:

That's where my fire extinguisher lives... 8) My CD player wouldn't fit there and with some of the people I give lifts to, it wouldn't last long if it did! :shock: At least a fire extinguisher isn't gonna get squished by 2 rugby players! :lol: Erm, Rams I dunno if you know, but it's illegal to drive with a TV on where the driver can see it... :? If you're stationary and watching the TV, what does it matter if it blocks your field of view?!? :roll: :lol: Of course, I'd never help a mate get around the built in safety system on his Clarion TV so he can watch TV while stuck in traffic... Honest guv... :wink:

DubWhiZZ's G60 Oettenger Golf does this as well... It basically is where excess fuel gets ignited in the hot exhaust causing a flame outta the tailpipe... Looks cool! 8) It shouldn't do too much damage as long as you aren't getting a huge BANG with it, but it does mean that your car is overfueling on run-out and on high revs... (huge bang could damage your exhaust!) I remember that you'd had a chip and pulley fitted and a de-cat when I spoke to you a while ago, do you know which chip/pulley combination you've got? Could just be that this is how it's supposed to run, as running slightly rich is MUCH safer then running lean and pinking? :? The reason that it'll seem slower now it's not pinking is 'cos it'll be running slightly more sluggishly than when it was pinking... The aim of perfect tuning is to get the car so that it's just ABOUT to pink all the way through the rev range without actually ever pinking... Practically impossible to do, but this is where you will pull maximum power safely out of the engine... As long as your engine is purring happily through all of the rev-range, and has no flat spots where the power is massively down from what it should be, I'd be inclinded to trust the Bosch blokes that set it up... 8) For those who aren't sure... AFAICR, Pinking is named after the funny noise that the engine makes when the timing is slightly (or massively!) out so that the engine is firing before it should. This means that instead of the piston being "fired" back down the cylinder like it should be, the explosion is actually partially slowing the piston down as it's on the up stroke and then pushing it back down. This means that the piston suffers excess pressure causing heat, burning and potential melting, it also causes strain on the con-rods and crank + all associated bearings... :shock: It can also occur when not enough fuel is being burnt for the amount of air in the cylinder (ie running lean) which causes the fuel to ignite much easier (and thus earlier) in the stroke than it should...

:lol: I'm an Ex-mechanic (at a VW Beetle/Golf specialist!), Electronic Engineering degree graduate, who's now a Chief Broadcast Engineer with a history of buying knackered VWs and doing silly things to them for the last 11 years! :lol: I guess it shows sometimes! :? :roll: :lol: The green/black wire with female spade does sound just like the oil pressure switch wire... Check it's not been damaged further back and isn't cable tied to anything metal/hot that it could be shorting out on... :? *EDIT* Oooh, And now I'm a regular! :lol:

Yup... Same... :lol: Lift card up at the end to remove from door...

Think it may be time to install my Yamaha DTX 5.1 amp, and TV into the car then! :lol:

Could be waterpump... If the car's been sat for a while, the seals dry out and then leak when the car starts getting run again... They're a sod for it... :roll: Other stuff around there that often cause leaks could be: The multi-outlet rubber hose that goes between the pump, block and oil cooler. (known to split at awkward times...) The outlet flange from the front of the block with the 2 temp switches in it. (it cracks or leaks from the gasket. If it's this, replace the plastic flange as well as the O ring as it'll probably crack when you change the O ring anyway! :roll: ) The metal pipe that runs round the front of the engine, over the gearbox end and up to the interior heater pipework. (normally corrodes at the corner of the block by the gearbox though) The plastic thermostat housing part of the water pump which has a habbit of cracking and causing a leak. Or, as you correctly point out, the oil cooler itself which is a favourite of mine to change when I buy a VW these days! :roll: Sorry if this sounds like a nasty list, none of these are particularly bad to do (or expensive) but this is a pretty good list of the bits that often leak in the area you described... :wink:

Yay! I got something right! :lol: 8) The MFA is indeed like the GTI in that it starts reading at 50deg and just displays --- until then. 8) 2) Don't worry about the earth strap to the bonnet, I replaced mine when I noticed it was broken and the stealer I got the part from thought I was mad spending £6 on it 'cos "we normally just remove 'em when they've broken..." :shock: 1) Green + black trace?!? That'd be one of your oil pressure sensor wires then!!! :roll: Could be you just found your problem! Mine's connected to the FRONT sensor on the top of the oil filter mounting... Check to see that you've got a wire connected to both of these 2 sensors (front: green/black, rear: yellow on my '92 G60) There's also a blue with white stripe wire that's just tied back on mine and not connected to anything... I seem to remember this is the same on a few I've looked at... :? I'd bet that the connector off the top of the front pressure sender has snapped off and the wire is just floating around in the engine bay, occasionally touching earth and setting off the warning! :? If you find that the green/black wire is just hanging loose with a bare end, start your car normally, then touch the wire to the block, or any other earth, and I'll bet your warning light and beeping thingy starts up! If so, replace the sender and all's fab and groovy again! 8) :lol: Hope this solves things! Henny....

Hi All! Here's a quicky for you... On a Corrado dash board, there is a grill either side for the speakers, and a grill in the middle as well.... What's the middle one for? Does it do anything, or is it for anything? Anyone know? Cheers! :D

Ooooh... :D The only one I've come accross was by a certain 3 letter company that I won't mention for fear of what could happen! :lol: EVERYONE has warned me off it 'cos it's based on the Type4 2litre lump and has a HUGE stroke "more suited to a diesel" as I was told by one tuning company... :shock: :? I've got a small wodge of about 6K :shock: ready to throw at the car... Think I may have to give Stealth a quick call! :D And before anyone says, "why not sell yours and buy a VR6" or anything similar. I DON'T WANT TO! I wanna spend my money on doing something a bit different to a car I've already fallen in love with!

As the Americans say.... "Ain't no substitute for cubic inches!" Personally, I reckon a decent supercharger/turbo makes a nice addition though! :lol: I've been looking into upping the capacity of my G60 for a while now 'cos with 200K + miles :shock: she's getting ready for a new engine! Only thing is that I've heard the 2.0 conversion is a bit :!: rough, so I'm still looking and researching... :roll:

Biggrim, What does the water temp gauge on the dash read when it's doing this? Also, when the beeping starts, what is the oil light doing? (constant on, or flashing?) The beeping, as I mentioned before, is an oil PRESSURE warning, not temperature, it's the light that lets you know if it's high or low oil pressure... There isn't a high oil temp warning on a standard C (except for reading the MFA gauge...) :? If your water temp seems to be reasonable (between 90 and about 105) then it's starting to sound like the oil that the garage has put in is seriously thin, or your oil pump is on its way out, which is causing the oil pressure light to flash and the beeper to go... Have a look around in your engine bay and your 2 oil pressure switches (one hi, one low) are on the top of the oil filter head (big block at front of engine!) Your oil temp sender is on the right hand side of the head where the oil feed to the charger comes off. Check the pressure sender wires aren't loose or damaged as this will cause your problem as well... On the right side of the head (as you look at it from the front!), the temp sender will probably have an odd coloured wire attached which will be the one that's been used to connect your VDO gauge. If you're lucky, there will also be a loose wire (blue with black stripe on my '92 G60) hanging about that goes into the original loom. Swap these two over and you should get the MFA oil temp working again... 8) Unless someone's been messing inside the dash wiring to get the feed to the VDO gauge... :? :shock: This will then give you a better indication of what is actually going on... 8) Hope this helps!

Euro Car Parts Sump gasket: £14.25 8) It's the same sump/gasket as pretty much every VW watercooled engine for the last 20 odd years, except for the 1.1 and 1.3 which are much MORE :shock: expensive! Give 'em a call, it's not a bad job, just make sure that you have a long thin extension for your ratchet and a socket that you can get in 'cos a couple of the bolts are in a pretty tight space... :?

4) If you are still having problems with "warped" feeling or vibrations under braking with new disks, take 'em off and clean the hub that they face onto LIGHTLY with a wire brush... It's possible (my 16v C did it!) that the face was dirty when the new disks were fitted so they aren't on flush as they should be and so seem "warped" when you brake causing a vibration 'cos they're not on straight... :? Dunno, solved the problem on 2 of my cars so far... :lol:

try http://www.knfilters.com 1991 VOLKSWAGEN Corrado 1.8L Code:HP-2005 8)