Henny

Woah, check this out.... I really wasn't far off when I mentioned DeLorean above... :shock:

Have you damaged the whole headlight, or just broken the glass? The glass is available seperately and is only about £25 +vat from VAG and it just clips on... :?: Just a thought... :D

's not a silly question... I was about to ask the same! :lol:

2 PMs that may help others and with Biggrim's consent... I replied: Hey up! It's not a problem, I'm happy to help... I've had enough assistance from this place to warrant putting some back! The part 068 919 081 that you mention is a 1.4Bar pressure switch, which is the one that you've already bought. I mentioned in my last reply that this will also do the job... It could well be that the 1.8bar one I've got in mine is wrong! After 216K miles it wouldn't suprise me if it's been changed! The two parts are interchangable they're the same size and fittings etc, it's just the pressure they activate at that's different... Fit the one you've got and you'll be fine... The only bit that you need by the sound of things, is the temp sender 049 919 563A which fits in the front hole on the filter housing which both Ant and I agree on numbers with and the parts muppet supplied you with the water temp sensor! Screw 'em in, wire 'em up and see what happens! Good luck, and don't worry about asking more questions... By the look of things, this thread has helped LOTS of people... Do you mind if I add your PM and this answer onto the thread so that people can follow what's going on? Ta...

Herts insurance (HIC) are the only people I've insured my Cs with over the last few years... They're always the best price wise and were really rather good when I wrote my first C off :oops: You get all sorts of goodies included too, green card, track day cover, glass cover, unlimited milage (for me, they also do limited milage) and if you ever do do something stupid/have an accident then they do guaranteed hire cars and salvage retention so you can buy it back off them if it's written off... 8) Call HIC on 01279 719932 If you mention club GTI, club Corrado, a few of the mags you read and that you attend shows like GTi International you can get up to 15% off!!! :shock: And No, I don't work for them! 8)

:shock: Live and learn... I wouldn't have thought that the Rallye was smaller than the G60 'rado engine, if anything I'd have guessed the other way around if someone told me there was a diference... :lol: Edit: Ooooh! :D Henny :: CF Enthusiast :: YAY! :D :D :D

Done the same on my G60's airbox and my MKI 16V Golf's too... Great noise they make now! :D I may have gone a bit excessive with my Golf's box... there's only a little bit of the lower box left now! :roll: Just remember that Dremmels are your friend! :lol:

Like I said before, if the speakers respond to the existing stereo then just connect 'em in the order they're already in... :D If not, then I'll have a look at mine later and get you the colours if someone else doesn't do it first... 8)

Depends what's under the tape? If it's just twisted wire, then yes, replace with bullet connectors... (make sure that the male bullet is on the -ve side of the connection!) If it's some connector block or something similar then I'd be tempted to leave it as it is... Colour codes are for the stereo DIN plugs are: Red: +ve (Ignition IIRC) Yellow: +ve (Permanent IIRC) Black: -ve Blue: Accessory power supply (for electric aerial/amp switch etc...) Striped cables are -ve speakers White:Front Left +ve Green:Rear Left +ve Purple:Rear Right +ve Gray:Front Right +ve If you've already got a stereo wired in and the fade/balance is correct on the stereo then you'll know which wire in the car is which from what it's already connected to... :D HTH... :D 8)

:onfire: Bang goes that theory then... I thought that all G60 engines (at least when they came out of the factory!) were the same PG block unless it was the rare 16V version, the only differences being some of the ancilleries (I/C, charger outlet etc...) :? Anyone else got any ideas?!? It's bugging me, I don't like not knowing why something's there and what it's for... :roll:

Only if you've got the original option gauge and sender and know where the other end of the wiring goes to... :? Your best bet is to get the original stuff working as it left the factory, and then buy a T piece so that you can keep the original senders and add the pressure sender for your after market gauge... That's what I did on my MKI golf and what I'm planning to do with my G60 when the funds become available for my new gauges I'm planning... 8)

That's one of the theorys I had about what it could be for... I'd guess that they'd run it off the cambelt seeing as how it is right next to it... I'm also now wondering if it's because the G60 was originally designed for the Golf Rallye and they may have needed extra cooling in desert rallys and the like? :?: I think that'd make sense wouldn't it? Anyone able to confirm/contradict this idea? 8)

Right, here we go, part numbers time... 8) Having stripped down my G60 to below head level I had a look at the sensors, my Bently CD and at ETKA and have now got the part numbers, wiring colours, locations and functions written down... :roll: So you should have: On the side of the head where the G60 oil feed pipe is, we have a blue wire with a black tracer connected to the 0.25BAR low oil pressure switch (028 919 081 D) it's the same on most VW 1.8 4 cylinder engines (mine's now off a KR 16V after destroying the original one in a fit of stupidity! :shock: :oops: :lol: ) On the FRONT of the oil filter head we have a green wire with a black trace which connects to the small oil TEMP sensor (049 919 563 A) which is, again, common to most VW 1.8 4 cylinder cars with a 0 - 150 degree C temp range... At the BACK of the oil filter head, we have a yellow wire which connects to the higher oil pressure switch of which there are 3 types... The one you want is 056 919 081 E which is the 1.8Bar switch (named as "1,8BAR 1 pin white" on ETKA) Then there is a blue wire with a white trace on it, which as I guessed at earlier in this thread, IS for the optional oil pressure gauge and should be tied up out of the way... :D The sender (251 919 501 D) that they've sold you, Biggrim is the water temp sender for the dash and goes in the flange on the front of the engine where the radiator top hose joins the block. Typical stealers not being able to read Etka properly! :roll: So: The two senders that you've bought (068 919 081 and 028 919 081D) will do the job OK... The first one isn't actually correct, but that shouldn't be a huge problem. The bit you need to buy is 049 919 563A which is the oil temp sender from the front of the oil filter head. The two oil pressure switches DO look entirely too big for the holes that they screw into, but they do go in! :? :lol: Good luck... I'm hoping that this should sort this for you once and for all! :D

It's oil temps and oil pressure biggrim's having problems with readings of... I'll sling the numbers up here in a mo... I've just got to find them in the pile of stuff I made up for doing my rebuild! :roll: :lol:

The front end reminds me of a Delorian... But then, I have been drinking tonight! :lol:

Mmmmm beer.... /homer :lol: I always wondered what that colour was Andi...

Or go to your local stealers and ask them which colour it is... They should be able to tell you from the Chassis number.... As long as it's not been resprayed! :wink:

No problem, and thanks for the nice comments... She's very photogenic and looks great when clean, but people like CaiosG60 who've seen her mucky will testify that she can look a real shed in between cleans! :lol: Timmy's 16V looks very nice... Good luck... 8)

Mad rush doesn't even come close... test ran it Saturday night at 11pm and then found a fuel leak sunday morning at 6:30 :roll: Tatton wasn't the goal... not having the hire car on Monday was the inspiration so I wouldn't have to spend another £125 on a hire car... :shock: I have the part numbers written down (I didn't forget! ) and I'll bung 'em up when I get out of work tonight... :D

OK, so after doing the head swap on my G60 I found I had a water leak from the side of the block behind the cam belt about an inch underneath the belt tensioner... It turns out that there's a hole in the side of the block just below the the head with an O ring and a plate over the top of it to seal it and I hadn't torqued up one of the bolts properly causing the leak... :oops: :roll: Anyway, the point of this thread is to ask this: Does anyone know what this hole is for? As far as I can tell, it's only on the G60 block (it's not on either of my KR 1.8 16v engines, or my mate's PB 1.8 GTI) It's just hit on my curiosity and I just wonder what it's for... 8) On the pic below, the bits are in red...

The switch is less than £15 inc vat... It's worth doing it as the other contacts will be on their way out too so you could find that you have to hot-wire your car to get the ignition on even if you put in a starter switch :shock: Yes, I've just done one on mine, it's dead easy... Take out the drivers seat, undo the 3 screws on the steering cowling. Lie down with your head resting on the brake peddle, unclip all of the wiring to the switch gear and with a torch and a watch-makers cross head screwdriver, undo the small brass screw. The switch will then drop out... In true instruction styleee, refitting is the reverse! :lol: Took me 20 mins including working out how to do it... :D

http://corrado.atx-hosting.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=1727 Keep an eye on that page 'cos I'll be plonking some scenic pics up from the way out of Tatton later today! :wink: Also, see http://www.randomlogic.co.uk/car3.html which will be updated soon with more info and pics... 8)

Dunno who took the photo, but they can take more of mine 'cos they've managed to not get any of the scratches on mine in shot! :lol: 8) Sorry I didn't hang around as much as I wanted to, Other things cropped up so I had to go earlier than I wanted... :? We'll have to get a meeting organised for the Manchester / Northwest area at some point soon 'cos I think it'd be really good to all meet up... 8)

Me?!? Mine's got 116,025 on the clock as I type this..... 8) ...and another 110k hidden in the history making a grand total of around 226,000 miles... :shock: Do I win?!? :roll: :lol: I'm not that bothered about the milage, I know that it's straight and solid and I'm planning to do some fairly major mechanical mods anyway and I have no plans to sell, which is just as well 'cos I'd bet I'd get sod all for her with the correct milage declared! :roll: **Edit - This post was made 2 days before the engine gave up snapping the crank bolt... **

Yup, J-Dub's me! 8) I thought it was a good show, but was a shame about the rain... :( Oh, and the fact that my car dropped it's coolant on the way home spoilt it slightly for me... :( Did anyone else know that there's a plate on the left of the G60 engine that covers a sodding HUGE hole straight into the water jacket?!? :shock: I'd not torqued up one of the bolts fully so it was leaking water from there... :oops: 'tis sorted now though! :lol: