Henny

Midland wheel supplies used to be able to get any wheel bolt you could name annodised in just about any colour... Personally, I like chrome wheel bolts... ;)

and more... :) 8)

OK, time for an update... A few pics from after Santa Pod 8 days ago, and some from Curborough on Saturday...

G-Man, Yup, Sam's gone for 83.5mm bore AND an increased stroke to get 2032cc IIRC... Crasher, thanks for clearing up the crank throw, I couldn't remember off hand what it was... :oops: :notworthy: Oh, and the T4 route for 2 litre, you've been rather kind to it by saying "a little harsh at revs" there... I seem to remember you described it somewhat less kindly at Inters a couple of years ago when I was talking to you about the conversion I was planning and some of the options! :lol: ;) I've since driven a G60 which used this conversion and it pulled OK at the low end, but was horrible up at the top end of the rev range...

'lo Slugga... How's it hanging?

vr6storm, I don't think so.... :twisted:

damn, that looks nice and clean and straight... 8)

:iamwithstupid: Had exactly the same in my MKI Golf 16V... ;)

nope... cast block, crack the bore and you have a nice large door wedge... Think the max you can take this type of block upto is about 2.2, using a different crank and 83mm bore, but then you get problems with not having enough cooling and you have to delete the oil squirters which cool and lubricate the piston crowns and gudgeon pins...

I know the feeling well mate... I've broken my car more times than I care to remember and normally find I've forgotten to do one little simple job just as I'm about to fire it back up again... :oops: :lol:

yup... all too much! :lol:

75lb/ft is for the flywheel to the crank IIRC, not the clutch pressure plate which is more like the 15Lb/Ft you mention... I'd guess that the later flywheel was heavier just to help with idling... if it was lightened I'd expect a SERIOUS difference in weight (~50%)... I am quite suprised that there is 4Lb difference though.... 8)

just different designs matey... Take 'em off an weigh 'em and I'll bet there's next to no difference.... ;)

rusty? Aluminium intercooler? nahhhh.....

if it's the cat heatshield, simply put a LARGE jubilee clip around it, and it won't rattle anymore.... ;)

use the MKIII golf diseasle bearings... They're a good upgrade for the G60 ones... Darren knows the part numbers for 'em... ;) 8)

yup, to add what G-man says: 83mm is the accepted max overbore of the G60 (either PG or 1H block) by most engine builders - some will go to 83.5mm, but that's seriously taking it to the absolute limit and may limit the longevity of your engine. 82.5mm will work nicely... Assuming 81mm is standard bore (which seems to ring a bell) the standard G60 throw works out to be 85.8mm so you'll get a capacity of around 1835cc... 83mm pistons would then give you 1857cc (ish!) Any other resizes need a different crank to achieve... 8)

simply disconnect the lambda probe at the multi-plug on the rear engine mount... Your car will run slightly rich, but if it keeps on running, then you know where the fault is... ;) Supercharged, The lambda sensor has a heater in it which can draw more than a dying fuel pump if it shorts... ;)

which engine?

intercoolers only wear out from impacts to the front of 'em from road crap or stress fractures due to over-boosting or incorrect mounting... if the intercooler is structurally OK and doesn't leak, then a new one will be no better...

sounds like bottom end bearings to me from that description... :|

looks lovely... what's the milage?

should I be concerned that what I came up with was J-DUB on Borbet Ts... :|

if the light is still on, there's still a fault. VAG-com won't turn the light off, the ABS system will do that on start up when it recognises there's no faults. Hooking it up to the dealers computer will tell you why the light is on, but won't fix it.

"engine/gearbox electrical connector short circuit"? Sounds like it could be the culprit to me from that description... ;)