Henny

to cover just about every job you need to do to a Corrado you should buy 2 haynes manuals: MKII Golf Passat 88-92 with these two, you should be able to work out how to do just about everything you'd need to do to a Corrado other than a few wiring bits and pieces which are Corrado only...

G60 rods are a different length and stronger than most other 4 cylinder rods...

got myself a Black And Decker one from Homebase which is a serious bit of kit and comes with a 3 year guarantee.... Much better than the 3 cheapo ones I'd had and killed within a couple of months in the past... 8)

try here for all your answers to what to look for when buying a Corrado... Welcome to the Forum... 8)

nope, not original, however there's also a Yellow storm on here somewhere too... :lol: REAL storms are either Classic Green with a cream leather interior or Mystic Blue with a black leather interior and were all VR6 powered. There were 50 automatics made out of the total 500 storms...

now that last line, I have no problems with agreeing with you on... 8)

nah, I don't do E38...

nope, don't worry about that .Rich., that's what I do too.... No point in going hell for leather on your first lap and then having to spend the rest of the session waiting for a tow out of the gravel trap while everyone else gets to know the track and increases their speed lap on lap... ;) :lol:

if you look at where the shifter cables attach to the top of the gear linkage, there's a big black bit right at the front with a 2 wire connector on it. That's the reversing light switch...

I can't believe I'm about to write this... :| I fully agree with phat here... :lol: I learned sooo much about how J-DUB handled just throwing it around Curborough and Bruntingthorpe that I'd say that if I hadn't have done that, the crash which wrote her off would have been MUCH more serious 'cos I wouldn't have known quite how much you could chuck her about to get out of trouble... I've always worked on my corrados for go, not just show, and track days let me appreciate exactly what I've built.... 8)

mate of mine has a MKII GTI without P/S and while it's heavy, it's sooooo much more positive to drive.... My old MKI 16V was seriously heavy on the steering but was sooo much fun to drive 'cos of the steering feedback that I still miss it now, 8 years after I last drove it! :crazyeyes:

Assuming this is a front mount one, not an A/C equipped golf version the bits you NEED to be able to fit the Golf G60 intercooler to your Corrado are: 1x U bend (inc. bolts) 1x charger to Ubend gasket 1x Ubend to block support bar (inc both bolts) 1x Ubend to intercooler rubber hose 1xintercooler with 2x rubber spacers/feet/washer thingies 1x intercooler outlet rubber hose 1x plastic outlet pipe 1x rubber pipe to connect to throttle body. Lots of LARGE jubilee clips You can use your existing Corrado radiator (although you'll have to trim off the 4 round mounting lugs on the leading face of it) or use the Golf one complete with fan and housing which will fit using the Corrado hoses. You'll need to modify the front of the intercooler at the top slightly as there's a large ridge which will hit your slam panel and stop it from sitting properly, just grind it down or trim it off with a hacksaw and a file. You'll also need to remove the right hand side (looking from the front) slam panel to inner wing mounting bolt and modify (ie hit with a LARGE hammer) the mount so that it sits vertically rather than horizontally else it'll foul on the intercooler and stop if from fitting... Hope this helps... 8)

yeah, but Gav knew what he was doing, and showed you so you now know.... Imagine how easy it is for someone with a seal/bearing kit to screw up the charger by pressing in/out a bearing skewed...

slap in a new set of lifters and have done with it... if 2 of 'em are either compacted or have play in 'em they're f'ed - It's best not to mix and match lifters though, I'd advise always using a complete new set if you have to replace any... Head skimming is only needed (and should only be done) if the head is warped due to heat/incorrect tightening/releasing or has any imperfections on it from where a leak has been. Otherwise, if it's within tollerance, bolt it back on... 8)

get hold of an early Golf steering rack which isn't PAS and you'll probably be OK, but it'll still be heavy... Taking the PAS off will also free up some horses from the engine too as it won't be driving the pump all the time too... ;)

As you don't have ABS it's dead easy... Brakes- Rear right first, then rear left, then front left, and finally front right on the brakes (working on longest pipe run first to shortest pipe run last) Rears may not need doing if you've only messed with the fronts, depends on how much fluid you lost doing it - personally, I'd take the opportunity to do a complete fluid change to DOT5.1 so you can safely know that it's been done recently... 8) If you do do the rears, try not to jack the car up else the bias valve will stop most of the pressure getting to the rear brakes meaning that it'll take ages to bleed 'em through... :| Do the clutch after doing the brakes. You'll need two people to do the clutch as someone will have to push and pull the clutch pedal while the other person opens and closes the bleed nipple as a self bleeder won't work on the clutch system for some odd reason.... NEVER LET THE SYSTEM RUN COMPLETELY OUT OF FLUID - it won't damage anything, it's just an utter pig to bleed the system through if you do! :lol:

8)

Thanks! 8) stickied... 8)

147K miles of pure sales-rep usage would be why it's soooo cheap... ;)

'taint the BHP that's the problem, it's the torque... Standard corrado box is good for around 250Lb/Ft on a regular basis... any more and with regular full throttle starts, you're gonna be eating cogs on a regular basis... If you're running a 1.8T, I'd go with a 1.8T box to match it...

Darren doesn't sell the seal kits seperate any more after too many people screwed up their chargers trying to save some money by doing it themselves without the proper tools or information to do it properly... ;)

Not true... A toothed pulley set will only make lots of noise when it's over tensioned... I've now got a solid tensioner from Darren on my G60 and it's quietened it right down to the level where you can't hear the belt at all when it's on idle... It whines a little when you give it some, but it's not loud and isn't annoying - if anything, the induction and exhaust noise damn near drown 'em out anyway... Any belt is only as strong as the belt that you specify... I know where I can get a belt that's easily 10 times stronger than a standard belt, but it's £120! The toothed belt that Darren supplies as standard is easily as strong as the normal poly-ribbed belt that was used originally... I've ran toothed pulleys for over 2 years now and have only recently snapped a belt when the original tensioners damper failed causing it to allow the belt to go slack and then suddenly go tight when you floored it... sticking on the solid tensioner solved that (and made it quieter too). As for a belt snapping and causing the engine to overheat and crack a piston - Didn't the temperature gauge's sudden quick upwards movement, loss of power from the engine and the bright red light on the dash (warning you of no alternator charge) tell you that something was wrong and to stop and have a look before you damaged something? :roll:

get it to an auto-electrician and get them to check it... Sounds like you've got something funny going on with your wiring which is putting too much voltage down through the sensors... :|

4th one, yeah, not the 5th though as it's the same car in the 3rd and has had the "dealer" factor added to the price... Get one of these at Auction and you'll get it for about £1900! :crazyeyes:

no idea which fuse the reversing lights are on... you may also want to check the switch on the gear linkage in the engine bay as these have a nasty habit of being knocked off by cack-handed mechanics... :roll: