Henny

feck, how many did you buy?!? :crazyeyes: ;) :lol:

if there's a waterleak from just behind the pulley on a 4 cylinder VW engine, it means you need a new waterpump. This leak is caused by an internal seal failing which VW had forseen and actually put a drain into the castings to make the water exit the pump in a controlled manner rather than spraying in all directions!

a decent powdercoater will have a very broad range of colours including mettalics... I use Greenspeed in Macclesfield - they're reasonable pricewise and excellent service and quality wise... The engine mounts I had done 3 years ago still clean up to be mint now, and that' after they've been ripped out of one car and plonked into another too! :lol:

Be prepared for a bit of a shock when you get the price on the accumulator, they're not cheap IIRC... :|

Flexy pipes will cost you about £50 for a full set of Goodridge ones. Parts to do the whole cars solid pipes should cost you less than £30 (maybe a little more if you use Nickle copper pipe which won't corrode again). Dot 5.1 brake fluid will cost you about £15 to replace the lot from Halfords... The tool to flare the ends is about £25 from Ebay. Time wise, it's all VERY dependent on who has worked on the car in the past... H-YYU failed her MOT on the rear solid pipes being corroded, so I bought all the bits and expected the job to take less than 2 hours all in... around 10 hours of work later, and I'm still not done as EVERY brake connector has been rounded off by some muppet in the past, meaning that I've had to carefully hack-saw off every connector avoiding damaging the mounting points to be able to remove the flexies... At the end of the work I'll be ending up with all new pipes from the enginebay back, a new pressure regulator and MKIV rear calipers on the car... Oh, and I'll probably have fitted the Brembos to the front as well while it's got no brake fluid in her... :roll:

I've locked this thread so people don't post ideas on how to remove locking wheel nuts here... If anyone knows how to remove them, please PM the punisher directly. ... Sadly, you never know which low-lives are reading this! :( Thanks! *edit* pm also sent about how to get the nuts off... :cowboy:

yup, there is an insurance ombudsman, and most insurance companies will do their damndest to make you happy rather than get involved with the ombudsman 'cos it makes a whole shed load of work for them! :lol: I've contacted the ombudsman about a claim in the past and had the insurance companies decision overturned (after a theft which the insurance company said they weren't liable for :roll: ) , and I threatened getting in touch with the ombudsman when J-DUB was written off and I was offered a stupidly low amount for her, even though she was supposed to be on agreed value... :roll: google "insurance ombudsman" on the UK site and see what pops up... ;)

1991 G60 (early body) 7.5"x16" Borbet C, 4x100, 40mm offset. 11mm custom made spacer which converts between standard center bore and Borbet C center bore of (IIRC) 60mm (IE it acts as a spiggot ring as well as a spacer) all around to get back to a slightly more reasonable ET29 This allows clearance of the Brembo 305mm Seat Ibiza brakes on the front by around 5mm 1992 G60 (Later body) 7.5"x16" Borbet C, 4x100, 30mm Offset. 11mm custom made spacer which converts between standard center bore and Borbet C center bore of (IIRC) 60mm (IE it acts as a spiggot ring as well as a spacer) all around to get ET19. These also cleared the Brembos by around 1mm but would not fit on the earlier Corrado due to hitting the wheel arch and having tread exposed outside the bodywork. The ET35 or ET40 16"Borbet Cs have a shallower dish on the spokes than the ET30 / ET25 ones which is why the ET40 wheels can fit over the Brembos with an 11mm spacer and the ET30s don't clear as standard... Took me ages to find a set of ET40 7.5"x16" 4x100 Borbet Cs though! :lol: Tyres on all wheels have been Yoko A539 in 205x45 size, although I now have Goodyear Eagles F3s all around on H-YYU just for a change...

Bit of an odd one this... On the early shape G60s there was a brake duct which fed cold air both onto the brakes (hence the name!) and also onto the intercooler. There was then a hole in the plastic wing liner which allowed the air to exit the cooler into the wheel arch. On the later G60s this brake duct and exit duct were deleted, so they didn't have as good an air flow to the intercooler.... Why this was done, no-one knows, it just was... :roll: Anyway, it sounds, from what you've written, like the exit hole in the plastic wheel arch has become caked with road crud and needs a good cleaning off. Personally, I'd not bother with a mesh, as the mesh will just get caked up instead of the back of the intercooler and have exactly the same effect of stopping air flow though the intercooler. What I'd do is to take off the passenger front wheel and clean the exit hole with a hose on a reasonable pressure to blast the crud out... Normally, I'd advise cleaning the intercooler externally at least once every 2 years to ensure this doesn't happen again... 8)

where's the fuel leak? Sounds more like it's on the Fuel filter on the main fuel line rather than the charcoal filter which doesn't actually attach to anything other than breather pipes... If the leak was noticed near the back of the car, it's the fuel filter... if it's near the front of the car, they're talking ballcocks as there's no fuel near the charcoal filter! ;)

...turns out that replaceing just the rear brakes isn't the only job... I've got to replace EVERY brake component from the enginebay back due to some muppet mechanic having stripped the hex ends of the brakepipes in the past... :mad: Not going to make inters now... :(

ditto...

you'd have to open up the cluster and swap over just the rev counter, although it still may just be the firmware in the cluster that allows for the 8K redline, the mechanism may use the same electronics and coils to make it work... :|

...you try to replace one brake pipe and 10 hours of work later, that one pipe still needs replacing, but now, so do all of the other pipes, the pressure regulator and all 4 rear flexies... :crazyeyes: if I ever find out which mechanic screwed these brake pipes up so badly, I'll show him exactly how to insert pipes and flanges...

I had trouble finding an insurance company that believed a 17 year old wanted to try and insure a 1972 Type 2 with as many suspension and body mods as mine had AND a porsche engine in it... :oops: Most of 'em just laughed and wouldn't give me a quote... :( I ended up getting a MKI Golf GTi and haven't looked back since! :lol:

LJ, sounds about right to me too from memory...

Chris VR6nos, yeah, saw that site today while searching, it's quite informative... 8) Having talked through the project with my mate, we think we're not going to bother with the W8 engine route now as it's gonna cause more headaches than it's worth, we may as well just get a V8 out of something else and use that as it'll be easier to work on and probably more reliable... Shame though, it was interesting researching the W8 engine... Thanks for your input everyone... 8)

odd, I've never had a problem with them and they've always been reasonable on the phone with me... :|

the main problem with knife edging is that you're removing a LOT of the inherent strength from the crank by removing that much material... Fine for a race engine that's gonna get stripped regularly and checked over after each race, but for a regular use road car, simply mildly lightening and then dynamically balancing the whole bottom end will yield some very nice results without compromising strength too much... 8)

erm, the timescale's looking to go along the next 2 years, so progress ain't gonna be quick... although the end result sounds like it should be! ;) :lol:

I sikaflexed in 2 angle brackets onto the boot floor then used some self tappers to hold the box onto them. I simply put a slit into the carpet so that they popped through where I needed 'em to be... 8) I've since got rid of the big heavy box and put in an infinity basslink which is held down with velcro and tied to the back seat so it can't slide about.... It's about the lightest thing I have in the boot of my car, so in the event of an accident, I'm more worried about the toolbox coming through the back seat and my head! :oops:

He's thinking of doing something like Noble did and building a sports car of his own design around an engine/drivetrain, so it'll be something completely new... 8) Dr Forinor, as he's on about doing it for a new project that could turn into something of a business (obviously he'd need VAG backing/supplies!) it'll have to stay closely under wraps, but I'll drop some hints if I can... ;) potatonet, the Eton was up there on my list for chargers if we went down that route... ;)

which engine? sounds like your fan run-on temperature switch has failed, or the wire has fallen off/broken and is shorting to earth causing it to think it's too hot once you turn off the ignition... The fan-run-on switch IS NOT part of the radiator thermo switch, it's location varies depending on which engine you have. The wire to it is brown with a white tracer, and the sensor looks like a brass bolt with a single male spade terminal on the top of it... (on the G60 it's above the fuel rail on the left as you look from the front of the car)

nope, they were brought over from 99 to 05 in either manual 6 speed or 5 speed auto flavours... My mate's just confirmed that the one he's found is a 6speed manual and it all runs OK with just a VERY VERY large dent in the passenger side where a car T-boned it... 8) :D

oooh, sequential turbos? Never read up on that idea, sounds fun though, although turbo selection would have to be made very carefully I'd guess... Personally, I just like Superchargers... ;) 8)