Henny

ooh, I've never come across a 1.8 valver with 2 LCDs... :crazyeyes: Wonder if that's original?!? :|

Fancy a VDO Boost gauge for $36 +P&P? ;) VDO Cockpit International Series Or how about one for $30 + P&P? :) VDO Vision Series I've got one on the way for my pillar pod at the moment... 8)

There's 2 different exhaust systems fitted as standard, both are pretty much identical other then the type of mounting system they use. The early ones use a hook style hanger, the later ones use a bar style hanger. From memory, I don't think there's a mount on the middle box (as long as you don't mean the sodding huge one under the rear seat) so it should be the same on either late or early... Where are you thinking of getting a replacement from? Most places will ask for the chassis number to ensure they're supplying the correct part... 8)

bcstudent, nope, not all G60s had the double LCD ones... the very first ones had the mechanical odometer, as did the early LHD ones... They're rare in RHD, but they do exist. Riley, Late 16V clocks don't have the redline to 8K as bcstudent says... 8)

OK, for a straight head swap you'll need: 10x headbolts 1x head gasket 1x set (4) exhaust manifold gaskets 1x exhaust manifold to downpipe gasket 1x inlet manifold gasket 1x rocker cover gasket 2x rubber O ring for the plastic water flanges (I'd also change the flanges and blue and black temp sensors and O rings too, but I'm like that!) 1x oil filter 1x 5L oil 4x injector seals (optional, but I tend to do these just for safety) While you're in there I'd also put on a new cam belt and belt tensioner on as it's easy enough to do while it's all apart... ;) Supercharger doesn't attach to the head anywhere, so there's no gasket there... 8) Good luck!

That pic of an intercooler's the one off an air-conditioned Golf G60... it sits over the gearbox and isn't actually any better than the standard Corrado one in that location.... :( The ebay one would be an utter git to fit and to pipe up as it's got the feed and outlet of the intercooler on the same end... you really want one where the feed is on one end and the outlet is on the other The one to fit is one from a non-air-con car which fits along the whole front of the car in front of the radiator.... I've got one on my G60 and it makes one hell of a difference... 8)

they shouldn't have dried out if they're that new... my engine has sat for 6 months without needing new valve seals... it's only when they're old and worn that leaving them can cause 'em to dry out... 8)

I'd advise that you also change the plastic thermostat housing (only a couple of pounds) as they normally crack (due to weakening from heat stress) when you re-fit them resulting in a trip to the dealers anyway! :lol:

Automatic what? (not being funny, just can't work out what you'd want the sunroof to automatically do! :| ) If you mean it has the total closure feature, then I'd lay odds that it's the same wiring as the late model Corrados... Someone's just done this in another thread on here, so it may be worth asking them about it if that's what you mean... 8)

OK, before people start parting with hard earned cash, can I throw some light into the darkness of this thread? 1.8 16V clocks were MECHANICAL for the odometer and speedo and had several seperate circuit boards inside them. One of these was specifically for the rev counter which also provided the 2.5K RPM+ signal for the oil pressure buzzer (ie the thing wot tells the buzzer to beep when the oil pressure switch isn't operated and the engine goes over 2500 rpm...) G60 EARLY clocks were also mechanical odometer/speedo, so the rev counter circuit can probably be swapped over from a 1.8 16V into one of these sets, but I wouldn't guarantee it... however, swapping either of these sets of clocks into a later car isn't all that easy and will involve quite a bit of re-wiring... same goes for putting late clocks in an early (mechanical) car... G60 LATE clocks had an electronic speedo/odometer (ie 2x LCDs) and a single full size circuit board. The gauge faces and operating coils simply slotted into the circuit board on pins so the 1.8 16V rev counter WILL NOT fit into a set of these clocks. ALSO: the late G60 clocks (and all later clocks for that matter) use the same sprung coil driver for BOTH speedo and rev counter. It's the firmware on the chip which drives provides the correct voltage to make the needle turn to the correct value. By this token, you can probably get someone to re-program your 7K clocks to read correctly on an 8K scale off a 1.8 16V rev counter face. (IE, swap JUST the face over as mentioned above, but then get the software changed to make it accurate again) I'm not sure how much that'll cost, but I know places like "digi-dash" can do that... Hope this clears things up slightly... 8)

andy, they are... it just allows you to get the line of the moon roof to sit flusher with the (very very slightly) different curve of the Corrado Roof... you're talking about a couple of mm difference in how it sits at the very maximum which will make no difference when you think of some of the angles that cars are parked at in the rain without leaking... ;) Dec, May take you up on that, I've broken (my own stupid fault) part of the mechanism on H-YYU's moonroof and I reckon it'll be cheaper to put in a new one than repair the existin one... ;) *looks around for stopwatch and spare moonroof...* :lol:

guess what I had to do this morning after my car failed it's MOT... They really are a crap design... :lol: Still, she's got nice new brake pipes now and a working compensator, so I think I may go whole hog tomorrow and fit the MKIV rear calipers and Brembo 4 pot fronts while she's off the road with no MOT... :roll: :lol:

I've cut the fag lighter bit off my rod angle and hard-wired it into the dash with the wire appearing through the windscreen vents... lots nicer than having wires trailling in all directions across the dash... ;) Seem to remember* the USB lead is a standard A to B USB lead which you'll get at Maplin or any other PC shop for not much cash, and you don't need the CD as you can download the software from the website... 8) *Mine's the one with the serial connector on it

failed the MOT... :( Then made up and put on 2 new rear brake pipes and freed up the brake compensator to sort all the problems only to find that I can't get a new certificate until mid next week due to the new computerised MOT system :mad: Still, only £25 for the bits to sort the car and get it though it's MOT isn't bad for a 250BHP 15 year old car is it I suppose... 8)

you'll get a nice set of Borbets in a 7.5x16 with tyres for well under £500... Shame you've a VR as I've a set of 4 stud Borbet Cs for sale that are fresh from the restorers... :roll:

thinking about it, the system may actually be 2.75" pipework... Can't remember off hand, but Darren will know... 8) The fit involved the usual bit of swearing and skinned/burnt fingers (should have waited for the old one to cool down I suppose!) but I got a mate to fit it for me at lunchtime, so I didn't mind that too much! ;) :lol: The system fits very well once it's all on and didn't take a lot of messing with to get it to clear everything properly and sit nicely in the cutout. It's a 2 box system (rear box and a BIG one under the rear seat) with a straight pipe from the downpipe to the first box which is split into 2 pieces (so you can keep the cat if you don't buy the bypass pipe!) and has both types of hanger on it, so it'll fit early or late cars without any messing about... 8) I'm more than happy with mine, and normally I go to a local place who custom builds the exhaust for the car I take there, so that's praise in itself from me... 8)

Stunning... 8) Bet that's gonna be a little lively to drive... :D

chrishill, some of them have a dedicated fuel feed straight into the exhaust so you don't need to be running rich... (how else do you think they fit them to Paxos and Cursors? ;) :lol: )

looking closer at the photos, it's taken BOTH doors on the passenger side and probably the B pillar too... If that car isn't a write off, it should have been.... :|

Yeah, my mate had an old van in for MOT which they couldn't turn off after the smoke test... The oil in the engine seeps past the rings and acts like diesel fuel meaning that the engine will keep going until it runs out of oil... Only way to stop it is to try and stall the car... not easy on a metal set of ramps... :shock:

just use your existing motor and wiring... it'll bolt on to the passat roof with no problems... 8)

not had a leak from either of mine, and not had to use a single washer on either too... 8) Got it down to under 2 hours from driving up, to driving off for this swap now... 8)

bet it'd be a write off too as that arm that's gone in through the window will have hit the roof and damaged the top of the door frame...

nope, it was only fitted a couple of weeks ago, and I've not had chance to clean the car since... She's in for MOT today, so I'll see if I can take a couple of pics while it's up on the ramps and post 'em up next time I get on line... :)

I want one too... :|