Henny

the search is your friend... ;) CLICKY! Could also be a problem with the main battery earth... how well does the car start in the morning? If it's hesitant, check the wire from the battery clamp which goes down to the chassis under the battery and then onto the gearbox to see if it's gone green, has a white powdery build up on it or has rusted ends on it... if it has, either clean it up or replace it (about £25 from VW) and see if that helps... ;)

Blue_Joe, where? my mate works in Manchester so that'd be cool for him to get his car sorted with a map... 8)

OK, I seem to remember that BOTH oil pressure switches are on the oil filter head on the KR engine (1.8 16V) and that the blue/white one is a spare, but I don't have my destruction manual with me at work so I can't confirm that... Anyone out there with a KR wanna have a quick look in their engine bay and let us know which wire goes to which sensor? 8)

ah, that's who did my last re-map! :lol: I'll add another vote for Wayne being good! :lol: 8) He used the no-lag code from the SNS chip and simply redoes the map on the chip so you should end up with a fully customised map based on the SNS code... 8) He also did Gav's Golf G60 (H100VW) which is how I found out about him... Where did you get it done, I've heard a rumour that Wayne's got his own rollers in a workshop now, but I don't know if it's true or where it is... He did mine on a set of Rollers in Runcorn...

http://www.egauges.com ... you need part number 360-006 which is about $25... ;) Or, you could go to VDO and spend £70 on the same part, or £80 from VAG! :|

G60rob, the dash fault (clearing/resetting/dropping to 0rpm) sounds like a dodgy earth on the clocks, or possibly what Kongo found out about dead/dying capacitors which cause all sorts of weird and wacky problems with the clocks on G60s... however, the Rev counter fault could well be your loose pin... you need to "tweak" the contacts on the circuit board to make sure that the pin is FIRMLY held by them else it'll flick like you describe (had the same on my speedo!) although, as I mentioned above, the whole dash reset points to either a loose power wire/connector or a dodgy earth... MFA MPG sounds like the pipe onto the back of the clocks is either split, holed or has come loose... Wiper switches can be bought from GSF for not a lot of cash as they're the same as late MKII Golf GTI... The spoiler switch could be something as simple as either the connector onto the motor or the switch has come loose... you'll need to investigate that one a little further to find if there's power getting to the spoiler motor when the switch is pressed to identify where that problem is... ABS faults are a pain in the arse to diagnose on G60s as they don't store the fault codes, so unless the light is ON, you'll not be able to VAG-COM/VW tool it to find out what's wrong with it... I had the same problem with J-DUB for months until a wheel sensor finally died completely... Corradoincidence does sound very likely on this one... I think that the clocks faults are all slightly related to the fact you've had 'em apart "many times" and that they're not really designed to be played with (not knocking you, I've had mine apart too many times to mention too! :oops: :lol: ) so things can get a little looser than they like to be with the contacts in there/on the multiplug... Hope some of this helps... Good luck! 8)

water in the exhaust won't damage the Lambda sensor... there's loads of water thrown out in the normal exhaust gas anyway, so a slight blow into the coolant system like you have won't make that much of a difference to be honest... Yeah, you'll need a LARGE torque wrench AND a long socket bar as you should never use a torque wrench for the final 2 90degree tightenings as you'll screw up the calibration of the torque wrench...

mike_g60, I ran my 1940cc G60 with red-tops, 3.5 bar FPR, 69.1mm toothed pulley kit etc on the standard chip while I was running it in! Just made sure I never used over 1/2 throttle and NEVER took it over 3K rpm... As long as your Lambda sensor and knock sensor are working properly, you shouldn't have a problem as the ECU will yank the timing RIGHT back if it starts to pink and should control the fuelling enough to stop it having dangerous problems... An SNS chip would be even better as it'll be even closer to what the end map will be... 8)

Greenbat, who did the remap? I know someone who needs one fairly soon and would be interested to know who you used... 8)

nice one Daz, good to hear some more good news from G-Werks... 8)

I know what you're saying Kev... I reckon I could have done the heater matrix in about 4 hours having never done one before, although it's taken me nearly 5 weeks so far driving around with the clocks gaffa taped onto the steering column support bracket in a state somewhat like below due to some seriously crap wiring I found and a lack of time to put it all back together... :oops: (obviously, the car now has a steering wheel and the instruments, but that's pretty much how she's being driven around at the moment... I am SOOOO missing my stereo... :( )

my 1940cc lump runs red tops with 3.5bar FPR and a customised SNS chip

blonde wearing a baseball cap with a standard poodle on the passenger seat in a blue STORM in Congleton yesterday... Seen the car around a few times now, anyone on here?

ah, one of the 2 engines fitted to Corrados I've no experience of... :roll: :oops: I'm sure someone will be along shortly to help though... 8)

nope, sounds about right... :( They crop up regularly on Egay though... I just missed out on one last week due to flying off to New York which ended up going for £12... :?

which engine has your C got? The oil switches vary in position depending on engine type.... ;)

mike_g60, sounds VERY similar to what I'm doing... ;) :twisted: 8)

check the state of the wires onto the oil pressure switches... they can fray or oxidise at the connector causing dodgy readings... Otherwise, change the 2 oil pressure switches, they're not expensive and will rule them out of the problem... ;)

mike_g60, that all depends on why you need to change the head gasket... If it's blowing badly then the odds are that you're gonna need the head at least checking to ensure that it's perfectly flat in all directions (or at least within 0.5mm at any point) otherwise it'll just blow with the new head gasket again. If you have a local engineering firm close by, then you should be able to get the head off on Friday night, pop it down to them on the saturday morning so they can check it and lightly skim it if needed, and then get it all back together saturday afternoon with sunday left to iron out any problems you may come across... I'm looking to do my head gasket swap next weekend and reckon I can do it in about 5 hours (from driving into my garage to driving out again) but that's partially 'cos I've a spare head to go back on so I don't need to mess about with getting it skimmed/checked... ;) 8)

what engine?

check the blue wire from the alternator.... there should be a connector down by the starter motor... if this wire has crappy connectors on it or is damaged the light on the dash will do strange things...

I've just been thinking (dangerous I know! :oops: ) and I'm wondering if the Rallye headbolts should be tightened the same as the PG versions or not... Does anyone out there know what the correct head bolt tensioning is for a 1H block... I've been doing mine the same as the PG and I'm wondering if that could be part of the problem I've had this time... :|

OK, there's 2 ways of doing the oil pressure gauge... 1) get hold of the combined oil pressure sender/switch which simply replaces the existing switch and gives you a connection for the original wire and the wire to your new gauges 2) use an aftermarket 5bar oil pressure sender AND the original oil pressure switch with a T-piece. The T-piece you have listed above sounds right for what you want to do, but you'll need 2 of 'em if you want to keep the MFA oil temp working too... you'll also need an oil temp sender (about £5 from GSF ;) ) What you need to do is put the pressure switch and gauge sender on one T piece and 2 oil temp senders onto the other. This will allow you to run both the MFA oil temp and the gauge at the same time... If you get in contact with Demon Tweaks, they do the T piece for about £4.50 + £1 P&P... ;)

it's a pretty intensive job, but not too taxing.... just make sure you follow some good instructions on which bolts to undo/tighten in which order else you risk warping the head or damaging the new head gasket... Get hold of a Golf MKII haynes manual and follow the instructions in there as it's mechanically the same... only difference are the head bolt torques, which I can't quite remember off the top of my head... :| I still haven't found anywhere cheaper for the head bolts... just shy of £80 a set gets painful when you've stripped the engine as many times as I have now... :(

Andi, snap... And my spoiler mounted brake light lets people know I'm braking WAY better than the normal brake lights! :lol: 8)