Henny
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Everything posted by Henny
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dazzy, neither of those are the FK Highsport kits that V3DUB is asking about... :roll: Venom lists the highsports as having a different version for the 16V/g60 and VR6s, complete with different FK part numbers, at the same price... See HERE for details...
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wire the fan straight onto the battery... you'll need 2 male spade terminals and 2 lengths of wire... it'll take you 2 mins to do it (this is how mine's currently wired in :oops: ) and will at least get you home... The only other way I can see to do it is to hire a car transporter van for the day and drive down to pick it up that way... :| If you DO go and get it and decide to drive it back, take the tax disk out of your current car, at least that way it'll look like it's taxed, and as long as you get an MOT and tax disk PDQ after getting it home... ;)
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I've been looking into buying a set of FK konigsport coilovers for my G60 recently and everywhere seems to list different kits for the 4 cylinder and the VR6 versions of the Corrado for both the Konigsports and the highsports. If yours are identical, then I'd suggest that one of the sets was wrong to start with... have a word with your suppliers and find out what they say... :|
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that'll be the bugger, can't remember the make, but I DO think it's Elring that GSF supply... it'll be held on to a red piece of cardboard with clear plastic and have a square hologram on it anyway... 8)
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oh, it's also about 1/2 the price from GSF as the stealers want... ;) don't forget to get new headbolts though... GSF and ECP sell these too for the PG block, but not for the 1H (rallye) block which are dealer only and almost £8 a piece... (you need 10 of 'em...) 8) EDIT - Just had a quick look on GSF's website... they don't list the headset, but from memory it's about £55... Head bolts are £1 each... 8)
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steveo29, it's a combo that they've come up with which seems to work very well... :| I've used it in many different VW gearboxes over the years and it does improve things... Basically, it's a one litre bottle of semi, and a one litre bottle of fully synthetic which they pour into a 2 litre bottle, shake like mad to mix it up, and then lob into the gearbox! :lol:
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Get one from GSF, they're the proper metal head gasket set and are supplied by OE manufacturers... These are the ones I always use on G60 engines... 8)
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there's a bung on the front of the gearbox... with the car on flat ground, undo the bung and top up via the hole until you can't get anymore oil into the gearbox... 8) I tend to change my gear oil every couple of years... Dunno what the reccomended period is though... :oops:
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GPC do 'em a little cheaper than that, but, yes, they are fecking expensive... :( There's a clip at each end and then sticky tape along the whole length of the main bit... If you use the search, Kevhaywire wrote a rather excellent "how to" on this which had lots of tips and photos to show you how to replace 'em... 8)
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veeDuB_Rado, pm/email them to me please... ;) 8)
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*right clicks and saves....* 8)
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see HERE for details on the driveshaft damper/weight thingy and how it should look and looks when it's boogaaarrddd.... ;)
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I've been using a combination of a fully synthetic and a semi-synthetic in my box... it's a combination my local racing team swears by and seems to give a very good smooth change... I'm not sure if it's any better or worse than whatever used to be in there though, as the gearbox was fully rebuilt at Stealth before I put the oil in it, so this is fresh oil in a fresh gearbox... :|
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no I don't want another set of wheels... I need to sell at least 2 of the sets (and 2 of the golfs I have too...) pretty soon so I can sell my house... :| Anyway, Link now works (in a cheating kind of way!)... The forum doesn't like having a ' in a weblink and trunkates the link as soon as it sees one...
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ah, so the center bore needs enlarging 1mm to fit scooby wheels to a Corrado? Hmmm... *goes off to think about something...*
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No they're not... You're thinking of the ISV re-route which is a different matter alltogether... ;) A Boost return kit simply blanks off the return side of the charger, adds a breather pipe to connect to a catch-can, and puts a filter onto the ISV which will still allow it to bleed excess boost... 8)
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body work - dealer - sounds a bit cheap!!....
Henny replied to Nick_Micouris's topic in General Car Chat
my local spray shops all charge around £100 per panel for respraying... Add in a little for removing and repairing that, and £150's not a bad price... 8) -
bristolbaron, if it's booked in it's legal to drive it as long as you go directly to the testing station... so, in theory, you can book a car in to a garage at Lands End, and drive it from John'O'Groats as long as you don't stop off anywhere during the journey... I wouldn't like to try that, but the law is on your side for driving without tax... Be careful that the car is almost certain to pass the MOT though, as driving a vehicle that's not roadworthy WILL land you in deep do-do be it taxed or not taxed if you're on the way to an MOT or not... :|
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JayPSC, I know what you're on about... ignore the two answers above who aren't on the same wavelength... ;) The simple reason that the dipped part of the headlamp bulbs go out when the main beam part is on is simply heat generation... if you had BOTH on at the same time, your bulbs would blow VERY quickly... If your headlights are very poor, then it sounds to me like you need a headlamp upgrade loom... They are a pair of relays that are activated by the original wiring which provide a much shorter wiring path straight to the battery (via a pair of fuses!) to make sure you get full power to your bulbs... H100VW used to sell these, but as he's off to Australia shortly, he's handed over production to KUR2Y... They're dead simple to fit and make an amazing difference to the headlamps... I've got one of Gav (H100VW)'s kits on each of my Corrados... 8) Supercharged, sciroccotune, He's on about the main headlamp bulb, not the extra main beam bulb. The main headlamp bulb has 2 filaments in it, one for dipped and one for main beam. When the main beam element is on, the dipped one goes out to prevent the bulb from burning out too quickly. The extra bulb in the inner lamp only comes on when the main beam is activated purely for extra lighting power... effectively they're the same as the spotlamps on an XR3i, only much, much classier! ;) :lol:
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rear window is NOT bonded in, so won't need to be cut out... basically you just push the window out from the inside... If you've not done one before, then I don't suggest you try it, but if you have, push smoothly on the top corners from the inside with your feet while someone outside is ready to catch it... To re-fit it, you need a draw string to pull the rubber seal back into the frame...
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yup, had this on all 3 of my 'rados now... :roll: I'm running MKIV on J-DUB and MKIII on H-YYU, but I'll soon be upgrading to MKIV on H-YYU when I get chance to put 'em on... 8) As said above, MKIV will fit all Corrados, but don't forget that you need an adaptor flexy hose to fit 'em properly! ;)
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there's LOADS of 'em on Ebay... the trick is to find one without TURBO BOOST splattered across it... :roll: http://www.egauges.com do VDO and Autometer ones (amongst others) for VERY good prices and are VERY good with their customer service... 8) You'll have to wait a little while for shipping 'cos they're in the states, but that makes for a better deal price wise too... ;)
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dazzyvr6, nope, it's stuck onto the inner surface... That's how you can repair it with that electrically conductive paint stuff... 8)
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Please don't cross post... I'll leave the one in the ebay section open, but I'll lock this one up.
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they'll fit your car (being 4x100) and will push your existing wheels out of the arches by 15mm... you'll need 15mm longer bolts though 'cos the original bolts won't reach the threads! :lol: Depends if you want 15mm of spacing or not... the one's Sam's got (Blue_Joe) are good quality ones though, so if you want 15mm, they're the ones to go for... Anything under 15mm on a Corrado will need something custom machining . This is due to the design of the hub and how the wheel fits on it making it impossible to have a hubcentric design for standard wheels on a spacer under 15mm thick... :|