nocrap

Urrmmm not really unless its really rubbish plastic or has a crack in it......mines been grabbed a number of times without a problem! :wink:

Other than Samco or similar i believe it might be........have a look out for a VR thats being broken

http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=25077 Huge thread on what people have got and their opinions

I'd still give it a good soaking in dismantling lube though...the 3 in 1 stuff that i've got is fantastic.

Just thought I'd add to this after talking to a few people about the loop at the summer scorcher.... I bought some excellent quality silicone leads for mine from http://dubpower.co.uk whilst there and fitted them at the same time and wasn't able to attach the 'RPM Lead' and just thought that i'd report that my car is running flawlessly without it.

although mine as standard was 147bhp...... depends which performance "chip" your talking about.... the resistor thing is a pile of poo and should be avoided, this has discussed a good few times now.. the £30odd actual chip jobby does seen to be a good buy, this has also been talked about and i did try and find the post using the search but was unsuccessful.

Surely this brings up a topic of a previous post about everyone having to MOT their car when selling it.....

Basically...... Alonso pitted at around 2mins of the qualifying remaining, Hamilton the pitted and waited behind......the engineer lifted the lollypop at about 1.40 but Alonso just sat there (excuse was that he was listening to the countdown from another team engineer in his ear piece) clock rolled down to about 1.25 and with normal race laps being done at around 1.20 Hamilton then didn't have enough time to get round the track to do his final qualifying lap!!

110 isn't really too high, 90 should be what it's normaly at.....you can change the water gauge sender (one pin black) for about £3 from vwspares.co.uk.

when were the hangers changed last? powerflex is another option if it needs something stiffer

That section looks like a simple flex joint, don't know if it's standard or not.....I suppose you need to find out what's causing it to twist on corners? knackered suspension parts? engine mounts?

Yes

just for an advisory, i'd wear eye protection the next time i release the pressure......even though i put a rag round it last time i still managed to get some petrol in the face....(awaits crude jokes)

Your other C's temps are spot on what this one needs to be....could be a couple of things, the first being a dodgy temp gauge sender as these degrade over time...other issues could be the thermostat or water pump. As for the fan you can buy the switch from http://www.vwspares.co.uk for a few quid along with the temp sender (1 pin black)...probably worth changing them both anyway.

:lol: think every corrado driver does! been coverd tons of times on here but you should be getting, on average, around 30ish mpg.....don't go buy what your MAF says as it'll probably be wrong....mine usually reads a max of 28 but when i calculated it last it was nearer on 34. At the of the day it's a corrado....

Late pods take 5 1/4" which will probably be the same as the earlys

It will only fail if it interferes with the light beam pattern. Late lenses from VW are about £20, early are a bit less but you may struggle to get early lenses now.

Cheers David, I was using that picture for other peoples reference, i was going by ETKA

Hi all, Put a bid in on e-bay for what i thought to be a new ECU coolant temp sensor (number 3 on below picture) and won it.......what the sensor actually turned out to be was a thermo time switch (number 4 from the pic)!! Wasn't too fussed as i want to change most of the sensors anyway, so earlier today i went out to fit it and to my surprise i found that i didn't actually have this sensor on my car...just a bung where it should go.. So just out of curiosity really i'm wandering why my car doesn't have this "thermo switch" when ETKA says that the KR and the 9a do...

well i wouldn't say a complete numpty....it wouldn't be too hard to be a tooth out, the garage could have done the ole tipex timing mark trick so would be even easier to potentially be a couple out...

Apparently that's how they wanted the front grille originally

No worries, Remove the top cam cover, this will mean you can see the dot / indent on the cam pulley and the arrow on the rocker cover. Basically at this end of the engine you need to have the arrow and the dot lined up. To do this crank the engine using the spline bolt at the bottom of the block where the water pump and alternator belts connect (possibly a 19mm bolt?) Once this bit is lined up go to the other side and remove the bung that is on top of the flywheel / gearbox and see if the line lines up with dot. like i said before a very small adjustment (fractions of degrees) will mean mm on the flywheel which is why it's easier if your have a friend. I may PM you regarding the bently later.....

Ah ok, no it shouldn't be like that and yes the timing sounds like its out!

no. 16's are the perfect size

Check out the "1 pin black" sensor that is below the water outlet on the right hand side of the head, they're cheap enough to replace but in a slightly awkward place to change.........but if you're not getting any reading at all i would first turn my attention to the wiring, check it's plugged in etc...