exturbo2003

there is a plastic ring around the base of the handle and you slide it away from the winder knob and it moves about 20mm and then the whole handle slides off

have you tried a new temp sender as had 3 genuine ones on mine that were wrong. check resistancew across teminals on temp sender should be abot 250-300 ohms when warm or about 5000 when cold

long time since done one but it all just plugs into the fuse box and the original loom piggy backs the conlog, so you should be able to find whats what fairly easily on the back of the fuse box. RW1 might have a wiring diagram

not a guarantee but most brains are fitted above the glove box. listen for clicking when arming and dissarming the car inside to give you a clue. when you find the brain the model number is on the front the serial number on the back, but as said the brain can be plugged into for a complete check over. when you have found it give me a call and i can help

both are platinum as they need to be to not melt. got similar mods to yours and fine on the standard plugs bosch w6dpo

defo original everytime, cheap and work as well as any on the market

gotta go with henny on this one always use the flywheel for timing. and yes the mark on the cam cover should be in the middle of the dots

cut one and tape it up then cut the other and you will be fine, just dont cut both at once or let the two wires from the alarm touch

bit far for me sorry

where are you might be able to help

baily do a twin piston jobbie for k-jet cars which is open at idle but shuts as soon as you come off idle. normal ones are shut till the negative boost is greater then the positive boost and then it vents to the atmosphire

have you tried moving the switch on the side up or down

what alarm have you got

cheers guys just need to locate pin number or send it off for reprogramming

has anyone got the instructions for programming this alarm please specifically for turning the central locking on or off thanks

.1 of an amp is fine. alarms should be no more then .050 so that leaves .05 for the rest. quite good. divide your ahr capacity by the currant drain and you have how many hours your battery will last. i can leave my car for about 6 weeks without the battery going flat

so what was wrong then

might find its the immob brain or ariel. try following the ariel from the barrel to the box and remove and wd40 all connectors and then try

usually you can do it by switching a couple of dip switches on the alarm brain or inside the remote, dont know which ones tho

prob a sensor try disconnecting all 4 multi plugs, two under bonnet 2 under back seats iirc and reconnect sometimes helps if not need to test each with a multi meter

just checked the wiring diag and the brown red wire goes to seat belt wiring control unit and back to the ignition switch. maybe try disconnecting these 2 as well to see if the drain stops could be the infamous ign switch gremlin

yep if the fuse is radio then disconnect the radio and put the fuse back in, if light goes out then try another radio. if that still lights it up then you need to check the wiring. when you fitted the stereo did you use the iso connecters or connect into the loom. if into the loom disconnect one wire at a time. also is there an alarm on the car with total closure if so that could have a supply from the last fuse, if not drop down the fuse box and try and see some thing that shouldnt be there

try one of these fitted loads very reliable and work well, cheap too http://www.wolfelec.co.uk/product/keyless.htm can get these for about 45 quid including delivery

you need to connect everything you want to measure so between the battery and the fuse box should get most, or between alternator and battery to see if the alternator works ok. really need 2 one in each so you can make sure the alternator puts out more then the car pulls just dont connect to the starter circuit as this can pull 250 amps and will overload your meter personally i wouldnt bother with one

ok get yourself a 21 watt bulb ie a fog light bulb and solder 2 wires to it. now disconnect the negative terminal on the battery and put one wire to the terminal and one wire to the lead, if the bulb lights up you have a drain. now start unplugging fuses and relays one at a time untill it goes out, when it does you just need to check whats on the that circuit. if nothing goes out then try disconnecting things like the alternator and the starter and poss the wiper motor until it goes off. if when you connect it there is no light then its a battery fault. you may need to leave the bulb connected for a few hours and recheck it. hoe this helps good luck