exturbo2003

right you need a proper amp meter to check what the alternator is putting out. basically you need to check the live cable out to all the electrics then check the alternator wire in and make sure you have more coming in then out. just sounds like the alternator isnt pushing out amps. common prob on all cars plenty volts but no amps. in high wycombe if you want a trip up and i can check for you if you dont have access to a proper amp clamp

defo need a electronic one, its down to the resistance on the primary circuit distinguishes the differance, square coils just arnt oil cooled. im assuming the first coil had been on there a while so the first replacement where did you get that from. if the charge rate is under 15 volts then thats not the prob so would suggest a new coil from vw. or are you sitting around a lot with the ignition on, say in lunch break to listen to stereo as this will over heat and burn out the coil

think you will find its 92 centigrade but what temp you see on the gauge will be slightly differant

sorry mate been away yes do have a wiring layout and will find out about a remote today for you sorry

need to get a pressure tester on it to check operation of the system but i reckon pump. was the stat a prob before the new pump or after it. might be badly fitted /have a seal prob.

let you know tonighgt mate

did they say what model it is

if its a gt alarm i will look in my installer book tonight for you if so can get new keys and program them in

try phoning guardian security on 02085977774 they will be able to help ask for mark

you cant do the amperage of a batterry with a multi meter you can check the amp draw with one but not the capacity of the battery or the amp output from the alternater.

only single zone sensors have the screw dual zone is by the alarm fob need to know what model it is first

when you reprogram the remote you have to do all buttons you want working follow the table in your manual also what model is it as some had ariel fauls and you might need the upgraded ariel

four beeps is bonnet/tailgate/doors if the bonnet is disconnected just make sure the wire is not touching earth. also if you have interior light delay (ie doesnt go off for 10 seconds) then the alarm needs to know this or it will keep giving 4 beeps on arming as it thinks the door is open hope this helps

could be the siren battery back stopping the alarm from chirping when you lock but the unlock is probably the button on the key fob. you can reprogram the button layout to see if this helps it tells you how in your manual. also where are you getting your batteries from as i have had batteries only last me half a dozen presses before giving up. check there voltage and they should be at least 3.2 volts when new, if not try a differant make.

when you open the door can you hear a click for the alarm box. if so try and locate it or follow the wire from the back of the led. depends on alarm type if its after market you will find 2 wires go to the indicator wires ussally by the steering colomn, you just need to cut these off and tape up the ends or find the alarm box and follow all wiring untill you find the fuses, and pull them. if its a factory spec one it all plugs into the back of the fuse box and you should see the link wires. disconnect the links and put the original plug back into the fuse box easy lol

my g60 is 12-14 round town and 18-21 on the motorway when having fun i can get it down to 6-7 mpg

dont use loctite 518 all yu need is a little silicone. its a water outlet thats not used so its just a blanking plate cant remember what the outlet was for tho

fuel pump pressure problem or the injectors are leaking

got a installation manual for the sigma if you need any info on it

knocked the multi plug off the back of the hazard swith

im in high wycombe if you wanna pop over some time also depends on the setting most can be done via the valet switch pm me your number and i will call you

wher are you mate as im approved to fit these so might be able to help you out pm me if you like and we can swap numbers and talk

yeah but the bbm one is still taller then the bad one. my one doesnt compress much with the engine on it (its standard) so 20 mm is way too much, mones about 5 mm compression maybe your right in their idea of design but surely bbm looked into that as well but have left theres taller

dont know if renault owners with beru coils would agree

as you look from the front of the car on the right side of the radiator if you look down the edge you will see the switch in the rad. remove the multi plug and bridge 2 teminals with a piece of wire, and the fan will cut in and run. if its 3 wires 1 is live and the other 2 are for slow and fast speeds. push button only replaces the final position on the ignition switch so yes you still need a working ignition switch. thermostat is a pain to do on the vr6 try pm kevhaywire and he will tell you best way to do it, what he doesnt know about vr6's isnt worth knowing