Banana Man

Sorry mate will definately try to make it to the next one!!!

Sorry chap I cant make it for one I don't want to put undue strain on the engine mounts and 2 it's a long drive for me just to watch and I know I wouldn't be able to resit taking it up the strip if I did go to watch!! I will try and make it to thenext one though once I ve got everything sorted!!

If you want a blanking plate have a word with darren (8vg60) he'll machine you up one!! If your gonna remove the isv jon you can just fit a breather filter on top of the crankcase!

I ve got an mpeg of that car doing 0-60 somewhere on my hardrive it is absolutely awesome f**king rapid as hell!!

Yeah I'm with HIC they beat all my other quotes by over £300 and they are really good with modded cars they had no problem insuring me on my G60 with quite a few mods. My quote was 761tpft with one years ncb and 23yrs old it went down by £200 over last years premium well chuffed!!

Alright joby to do the rears you will need to get under the car and loosen off the 17mm bolt that goes through the rear axle but dont pull it out, then you'll need to take the parcel shelf and the p/s supports out which are held in with 7mm nuts if I remember correctly once all that is off you will be able to get to the top of the struts which you will need a 17mm spanner to undo the 3 nuts, the last nut will probably need to be undone with an offset ring spanner as it is quite hard to undo as it is inset into the cowling of the lower top mount! once they are all undone get back under the car and pull the bolt out of the axle ! heres the tricky part if you dont want to use spring compressors ( which I generally dont) jack the car up as hight as it will go get a mate to put some weight on the wheel so it drops down a bit this lets you have enough clearance so you can lift and pull out the the strut from the axle. Thats the rears done!! Now for the fronts which are really easy you will need a 7mm allen key the bigger the better and a 22mm offset ring spanner to undo the top nut and a 19mm socket to undo the 2 bolts that go through the hub the best thing to do when you come to undo the 2 lower bolts is make a marking round the nuts and bolts before you undo them as this will affect the camber of the wheels if they are in a different position when you put them back on. Once they are undone the strut can be removed and and you can refit the new strut and spring. Thats about it I hope this all makes sense to you as it'ds hard to put it into words once it's all back together you will need to have the tracking done but dont get ripped off with 4 wheel alignment as only the 2 fronts wheels can be tracked up the rears are on a fixed axle so cant be tracked up!!! If you have any queeries just give me a shout and I'll see if I can give you anymore input!

I would say it's the tappets making the noise it could be down to a faulty oil pump thats causing it as that would affect the oil pressure!! or maybe just down to worn tappets! Has the oil pressure warning light come on at all they usually come on if you belt it round corners if its not working properly!!! Also another thing to consider is have you got enough oil in the car!!! Check the dipstick first before anything else!!!

I like my g60 they are easy enough to work on a bit cheaper than the vr to buy and quite a bit lighter and handle a bit better. You can easily hike the g60 to over 200bhp without having to spend fortunes. I would definately buy a g60 with the charger rebuild already done If I were you as They are expensive to replace ( as I found out :( )

Wow that is impressive whats the 0-60 times!!!! :D

That is a bloody good quote for insurance!!! Who's that with???

Joe you have brought up a good point there I didn't think about the rear!! Ther front subframe should be the same as the corrado as a corrado is based on the same chassis as a passat and mk3 golf!! There would be a hell of alot of work involed in changing to thhe vr6 setup and you should only delve into it if all the parts are supplied in the conversion eg, rad,loom, subframe, hubs, ancilleries and so on and only go through with it if you are 100% sure he knows what he is doing!!!

It tells you how much power its got 400ps when running 1.2 bar of boost and 270ps when running 0.6 bar of boost. Ps is basically the same as hp god knows why they have to be awkward and measure it in pounds per square inch!! Flamin krauts!!! I love that front bumper!!

I am so temted to answer that question tony but I think I'll leave it for darren to explain!!! :D

No not the best but are cheap and reliable imho if you want the best try a vibratech mount as they are far superior to any genuine mount if you can afford it that is!! probably twice the amount of a standard mount!!!

Its alright jon just spotted that thread I had never heard of removing the ISV thats all!!! I am a little wiser now!! :D

It's mr banana now is it!!! :D

Go for it andy if £1650 is the fitted price with a new head gasket and all the trimmings I reckon that is a bargain!! As long as the engine is in good condition what does it matter what the mileage is you just need to know the engine is legit before you commit yourself to anything!! If you do go for it make sure that you can trust the bloke selling it and get it in writing exactly what you are purchasing as if the worst happens and something goes wrong you have something to back you up!!! Another thing to think about is if your bonnet is the later raised type as the vr6 lump needs to have the raised bonnet for a bit of extra clearance as it is a taller block compared the 8v and 16v counterparts I dont know how significant having the raised bonnet is but they wouldn't have raised the bonnet for no reason!! Thats my 2 pennies worth anyway!!!

Try coating the backs of the pads with copper grease that usually sorts squeeky brakes out, I know how annoying it is as mine are doing it at the moment but I think its the new grooved discs matched up with hard compounded ferrodo pads that are causing the squeel I'm kinda hoping as they wear in a bit further they'll stop doing it as it really is quite annoying everyone turns around and looks at you!!! :(

The only time the bypass system is noisy is when it is venting boost which only occurs when the supercharger is runnig positive boost around 4000rpm if you are only running on vacuum then it wont be noisy just a slight whistle from the charger! When you say you want to ditch the ISV altogether what do you mean as if you remove the ISV it wont idle!!!!

I used a genuine oe one from euro parts so it's not the quality chris its probably down to the fact that the rear one had pulled through it's mounts so the front one has been taking all the flack, I'll just kick up a fuss and get epc to replace it under warranty!!! :D VAG tend to add whatever percentage they feel like onto they're parts there is really no logic for instance the rear engine mount I got a genuine part from another source £60+vat Vag price £140+vat mark up of over 100% heres another one water hose from engine to heater valve genuine but from another supplier £3.50 VAG price £16+vat mark up of well god knows my brain is fried just trying to think about it!!! It just goes to show that there is a reason why we call them the dealer stealers!!!

Okay dokay chap!! I could respray the one I ve already got as you can dismantle them but dont really want to do that do you know of costs because I ve been stunned by shipping and import taxes before!!!

Mark front seat passengers have the luxury of the floor at the mo as I really cant be arsed to put the frnt seat back in!! :) I ve been told the rear passenger seat is really comfy tho you can stretch your legs quite nicely!! Shame the convoy from the services didn't go quite according to plan I dont know how the guy in front of you managed to take us back onto the motorway in the wrong direction I was thinking to myself "this aint right!" but oh well made the trip a bit more interesting as once we realised it was time to give the cars a little thrash to try and catch up!! Great day out!!!!

G60ing Do you have any schabak like this but in yellow got to get a yellow one :D If you do I would be interested in buying one!!!

Hi kevin I changed my rear mount at the weekend as I get alot of movement and a really annoying squeeking noise. The mount is really easy to change it took me about 20mins to change it all you need is a 17mm socket and wrench and a 13mm socket oh and a jack of course wheel off ubolt jack up engine take out refit JOB done!!! :D It didn't cure my problem though :( I think the front engine mount that I changed 2 weeks ago has failled again due to the rear one going!!! I dont know why the mount is so expensive I ended up getting one from work as the dealer stealers wanted £140 for it HAHAHA who in their right mind would pay that sort of money for one. I got mine for half that price!!!

It could be down to a sticky solenoid on the starter or the common ignition barrel problem 1 of the ways to tell if it is a sticky starter is if it clicks but doesn't do anything else!