herisites

What are you doing man! :( (did you get your jumper back? :wink: :lol:)

Yeah i saw the Whiteline ones when googling, would be great to find ones for ours which dont cost stupid money! Is it as simple as just lowering the ball joing though, wouldnt the TRE end need doing as well so they still move together?

They already do these ball joint extenders apparently, i cant seem to find them though :?

Ahh thats not good to hear Judith! I hope you can get it sorted out, would be a shame to waste a car with such shiny paint :wink: :lol:

Buy this :wink: :lol: Oh and Mic LOVE the avatar, nice hair dude! :rofl:

Yeah was trying too much to be like top gear i thought.

Its not very good for the eyes :roll:

Nice one :cheers: might see you weekend then mate :lol:

Yeah as Karl says really, cant see a reason to go for Vortech and not for Rotrex personally, if anything a rotrex is better. What sort of power are you hoping for? Because there are different models, for around 300bhp and maybe a bit more you can get the C30-74 or if you want more then there is the C30-84 and then even more the C30-94 (potentially 400+ bhp!). Also when are you looking to buy? I will have a complete kit ready to go on for sale within the next few months, my charger packed up but i will be selling the kit with a brand new Rotrex. I can also help with any advice you need about fitting, and if i get the right price i would even help fit it as it can be done in a day easily enough, but will just need remapping.

Ahh see i didnt know that, i have a vr :roll:

OMG that is fcuking stunning!!! *splat* :notworthy:

Try the search mate, its bound to have been covered a thousand and one times already. I would imagine you could get just an induction kit anywhere, but it depends whether you are after a specific make/model or your budget.

Well done Torsten! Very well deserved, your car is stunning! P.S I miss germany :(

My thoughts exactly! Not to mention throttle response being pretty sheeite! Also wouldnt want a small furry animal walking under the car after a spirited run, it would come out the other side as a fireball :shock: :lol:

Well depends on your budget i think, the usual charge cooler most people use will require the battery being relocated to the boot but if you have a wedge in your wallet then PWR charge coolers can be squeezed in the bay and do a good job. Look for CrazyDave's build thread, his is very neat indeed. I would imagine with some good cams and cooling 300bhp should be reached easily enough. Mine made 270bhp with a rotrex running 7psi and with lowered compression and thats without any other mods like cams. And KADVR6's old Vortech V1 running 8psi at stage 2 made something like 294bhp with a just a 6 branch and no cams/cooling!

Well i am fairly new to the forced fed club (even though its no longer forced fed!!!!!!) so i wanted to learn as much as possible, its fairly simple when you break it down to the basics, when you start getting in to turbos or big power then the technical mumbo jumbo comes out!!

I would save your money with the schrick mani mate, im sure they are great on a na vr but i would rather put the money towards more boost! I know i am no longer a member ( :( ) but welcome to the forced fed club and the forum! What supercharger are you thinking of going for? There are 2 main ones really, Vortech which is well proven as everyone and their nan has one, so you cant go wrong with them. Or the Rotrex, a bit more of a beast, not been round long but so far have been well proven. Differences between the 2 are they are both centrifugal, but the Vortechs are HUGE and are grear driven (makes a great noise) whereas the Rotrex is small and has a unique roller design. The vortech's tend to be laggy for a supercharger, they dont seem to do much until 3.5k really whereas the Rotrex comes in much earlier. The vortechs run off the engine oil so oil change intervals need to be frequent (every 4 months recommended) but the rotrex has its own oil supply and cooler which doesnt go anywhere so only needs changing every other year or so depending on miles, however at a price as the special 'Traction Oil' is a tad pricey! As for mods to go with the chargers, the Schimmel 263 cams have been very well proven, they have given brilliant results even on na engines and they love forced fed! So they are a definite, and much much cheaper than over hyped (imo) Schrick cams. If you are going stage 2 (8psi) or more then water injection or some form of cooling is advised, it will help performance but will mainly help avoid pinking when hot! 6 branch is also worth it, but not a must really. When i fitted my rotrex i went straight for lowered compression with a spacer gasket, i only ran 7psi to start but the plan was to have big boost in the future so i thought might as well lower the compression at the beginning that way its out the way. Now fortunately my engine is prepped ready for a turbo :clap: Also worth noting if you are going to take the head off and fit a spacer you need a sharan vr6 head gasket, bin the middle layer and use the 2 outer layers round the spacer gasket, helps it seal better and also worth getting ARP non-stretch bolts for the head and if you plan on big power conrods as well. Then your engine will be bomb proof! Hope this helps! There are a few charged boys on the forum, check out the Forced Induction VR6 thread which has covered pretty much everything you could need to know.

Ahh ok so you got the larger injectors. Well if adjustable was same price then fair enough, dont think it would be needed though as the larger injectors will allow for more fuel. Although it might come in handy when going stage 3 later on i suppose. Sounds like a good setup, should be good for 300bhp! Enjoy :D

What charger you having installed? Are you changing the injectors or just adding the adjustable fuel reg to up the pressure? With charging these are the 2 options, either stick some larger injectors in in which case Vince will setup the fuelling correctly for them when mapping. Or fit a rising rate reg like a BEGI which replaces the standard fuel reg and basically forces more fuel through the standard smaller injectors. If you are going for the fuel reg then my guesses are leave it to Vince to setup. You wont want to adjust it to give more fuel as that wont give you anymore power, it will simply make it run too rich.

Waste of time imo, save the money, stick some fuel in the car and go and enjoy it as it is.

Been there before :brickwall: Can be done if not tooooo seized in if you use something in the center to hit rather than just whacking the splines which will just distort.

Saw your car weekend Skinny (looked good btw) but didnt get a chance to meet you. Mind you i was looking for Al Murray which is probably why i couldnt find you :roll: :lol:

Yeah i saw that! What a tit even if it is a pisstake he still did it!! :lol: :lol:

As said really, wash it with any old shampoo will do tbh if you are going to be giving it a good polish. Ideally without using a sponge though :( get a megs lambs wool mitt if you can stretch, its a great mitt, lasts a long time and is safe on the paint. And dry with some form of drying towel rather than a chamois if you dont have one already. Clay the car if its not been done, you can get the Megs Clay Kit from halfords usually which isn't too expensive, that comes with the clay and the detailer spray which you use as a lubricant for the clay. The clay will then remove any grit, sap, tar etc from the paint and make it smoooooth ready for polishing. If you have some detailer left at the end of it, bonus as it has many uses. Once clayed wash it again to remove the lube/detailer and any loosened grit etc. Then dry. Then use the Super Resin Polish, which is underated imo, i still use it after machine polishing its such a great polish! This will lightly cut the paint but its main feature is its ability to 'fill in' swirls etc like an anti-wrinkle cream. Give it a couple of coats of this for a better finish, first starting with a liberal amount of polish applied quite quickly, apply to whole car leave for 5 mins or so and then buff off. Then do it again, this time with less polish but work it in more, leave again then buff off. For best results use some form of applicator to apply rather than a cloth as you use too much product with a cloth. You can get loads of cheapy applicators and cloths from Wilcos Carmaster, no need for names megs stuff really, i think i bought some microfibre applicators and a pack of microfibre cloths for about a fiver from my local Wilcos!! Then as said, the best product to use after SRP is the Extra Gloss Protection which is an acrylic sealant and gives a great finish and durable protection. Do not use a cloth to apply this as its like baby oil to apply and you will just soak up all the product and use it far too quickly. Use a foam applicator of possible. No need for too much of it, just a quick squirt per panel really. Apply it to the WHOLE CAR and leave for ATLEAST 30 mins, an hour if possible to let it harden. Then buff it off. The detailer spray you get with the clay can be used to splritz the applicators which stops too much product soaking in. It can be used to help buff off product, lightly mist your cloth and buff it off. Or you can just use it as a finisher when complete, simply spritz the panel and buff with clean cloth to remove any dust or left over polish/wax etc.

I just had 2 large crusty cheese and ham (and salad) rolls, were rather tasty indeed!!:D