herisites

I don't think the V5 tensioner will fit tbh as the part numbers are different where as the part number is the same for pretty much all the VR6 engines and 2001 4mo engines.

I think you should leave it looking like that Karl, it looks hard as nails :lol: As said it's a shame you gave up with the R32 mate, but at least it will have some turbo goodness on it eventually :clap: Oh and first dibs on the RK's when you sell them mate (because I know you will sell them :lol:) they look sweeeeet!

Cheers Pete, some helpful info as usual! So can anyone confirm the V5 tensioner fitting?

Also does anyone know if the Golf V5 tensioner is the same as the 4mo/R32? It's in the same bracket on vwspares so wanted to check?

What's the case with using the DBW? I have the TB but no pedal. Can I get any mk5 golf DBW pedal or does it have to be R32 specific? Any other ways of going about using the DBW? Also I heard about the DBW TB fouling the bonnet, will this be the case with my Mk5 (Pete?)? Here's a Mk5 Golf 2.0 GT TDI pedal on ebay, will that do?

As said the rear arches are double skinned so require more effort to roll them. Rolling them you may get away with the paint not cracking, pulling them is a proper job and needs the whole rear qtr spraying usually and I was always told to expect about £200 per side to do that. Rolling them wouldn't pull them out any further, just roll the inner lip up to reduce tyre catching but by the look of yours I doubt you get much catching do you? I would just leave them really, roll the arches if they catch otherwise I wouldn't bother, they should pass MOT like that. As for camber the rear isn't adjustable so you need camber shims but they will give more negative camber rather than straighten the wheels up.

I didn't change mine either :shrug: I have a Mk5 engine which has electric power steering so I need a MK4 or 4mo bracket to run the PAS/alternator etc the same as it is on the VR now. And it is a 12v bracket I have pictured but I thought you could use a 12v one as long as it isn't a 2 part one? I'm probably wrong so will just get a 4mo one from the stealers to be safe really. Thanks anyway.

Guys, I just asked a guy on ebay who's breaking a golf VR6 engine about the bracket I need for the PAS pump/alternator and has sent me this photo (attached and bad quality). Is this the one I need? I think I read somewhere that some are 2 parts and that's not the right one, this one look like a 1 piece. And then I would need a 4mo tensioner to go with it as the VR one fouls the inlet manifold or something, is that correct? Cheers :)

Thanks for answering all that Kip, I was still unsure about some of them!

Yeah it's easily accessible, but didn't know whether it would be a case of looks simple enough but ends up being a right ball ache like a lot of jobs on the corrados :lol:

I have read about a suck test you can do with it, suck it to lift the flap and then listen for it to close quickly. Have you done that? What would I need to suck (ooerr!!)? :lol: After doing bit of reading on it it seems that the vanes get sooted up quite and bit and so tend to clog up. A strip down, clean and lube up usually does the trick. There's probs more to it though. So I would need to take the whole turbo off and send to you? That's not going to be fun!

That all sounds pretty spot on to me Graham! Thanks for the help. I'm going to get it home tonight by just whacking a new strong jubilee clip on the intercooler pipe and see what happens. Are there any obvious signs that the vane has stuck, would I need to take it apart?

Yeah I just had a poke around. Checked the turbo impellers to see if there's any movement in the shaft or whether they are fooked but that's fine and it spins fine. I then however noticed what the pop was and the white smoke, the intercooler pipe had burst off and the inlet pipe is pretty oily. So it's pressurising somewhere and has caused the pipe to pop off. I heard of the turbo running on its own oil and the only way to stop it is to stall it. It's running perfectly fine on idle and i tested it round the car park when i connected the intercooler pipe back up (only had access to a cable tie to hold it on which obviously blew off again) and it drove as normal, but then blew it again when the turbo came on boost (full boost at least as was fine up to about 2.5-3k rpm).

Hi guys, Just want to pick a few brains really. I am currently using my old man's audi (2.5 v6 tdi) as my car is finally in the body shop. Quick story of it recently, it had been off the road for ages, we tried starting it but it didn't want to know. We gave it to a diesel specialist and they found the problem to be a corroded relay for the ECU due to the drain plugs being blocked in the scuttle tray (common problem apparently, drain plusg now removed so has lots of drainage!). They got it all running perfectly fine but it needs an ECU reset from Audi only to get things like electric windows back working. Anyway it's been running fine. I have been driving it past 2 days and noticed that when it got up the revs it lost power and backed off and then it would come back in again. I thought it was the ECU problem, it needs to be reset so must be a limiter or something kicking in. Today however on the way to work it was running normally, I turned off down a country road and opened it up a bit (not thrashed it at all) but it was hardly going anywhere. All of a sudden there was a pop, the turbo went really loud and there was white smoke coming out of the exhaust (not a massive amount though). It was then really lumpy and the turbo was spooling up quickly as normal but just loud and not making any boost. I don't think its anything like head gasket (white smoke etc) as its driving. I pulled over and had a look for obvious signs but at idle the engine is perfectly normal, it's just under boost its bad. If it was head gasket it wouldn't run as the bores would be full of water etc. I managed to crawl it to work at about 30mph trying not to go in to boost (hard on a tdi that boosts at about 1.5k!), it was very slow and the turbo kept wanting to spool up but when did went lumpy. I'm thinking the turbo has blown and oil is getting in to it and burning up in the exhaust (it's not blue so not getting in to the bores). Anyone had this happen or has any other ideas? Also signs to check? I am going to take the pipes off the turbo if I can at lunch and see if I can see any obvious signs like excessive movement in the impeller shaft etc. Cheers in advance! Rob.

Try www.zsoc.com, it's for zetec-s owners primarily but there were loads of mk4 owners and general fiesta owners on there when I used to have my fiesta back in the day! They were pretty clued up.

I like that a lot 8) Areed, it looks more proportioned to the golf so the new style grill suits better.

:lol:

I have seen a couple of the flourescent green scirocco's going round lately and they look great! I really like them in green! 8)

Agreed Toad is a really helpful guy, we salute thee :notworthy:

Stylehaus :wink: Owned by Steve Denton who used to work at Premier (also in Northampton), if you ask about him at any VW/Audi car show I bet most people have heard of him! He loves corrados, and is currently working on his own one. He will be doing some work on mine (crash repair with some extras) at the beginning of April so if you aren't planning on getting anything done by then you can wait to see my results 8)

I didn't know they were heated :oops: mine obviously don't work then :lol:

Your car looks so aggressive in them pics, hard as nails 8) :lol:

Any update Karl?? Heard things weren't going too good :(

Why spend a fortune getting the other panels resprayed when they are just faded? :scratch: All you would need to do is give it a damn good polish (machine polish would be better) and they would match again. But anyway as said if you want durability then Collinite is spot on, the 476s would be better suited for your colour as the 915 is better suited for dark colours. There are better waxes out there for finish though. Also you can get very good protection from sealants which chemically bond to the paint and can actually offer better protection from UV rays etc (which is what's fading your paint!) but it depends on your taste for the finish you want, sealants tend to give a more sharp finish where as a natural wax gives a deep warm finish.

It wouldn't work with our cars, the panels are too thick! Plus the bump literally has to just be a push in that can pop out. When you watch the videos the panel is flimsy as hell and the dent is just a 'popped in' dent which pops out.