BeavisJem

He He, I am going back to Aus in a couple of weeks, but I work as a freelance sound engineer and i'm back to do Glastonbury and Prince at Hop Farm Festival. Beavisjem

Hi there, Haven't really been active since moving out to Australia last year. Just come back and I have sold my Corrado of 8 years. Good news is it will be staying within the Corrado community and was sold to a fellow forum member. So this is farewell to my old G60 Cheers Beavisjem

Hi there, Very good friend got screwed over getting a gearbox off ebay. She brought a secondhand one and got it installed because her original gearbox totally went. The new gearbox grinds big time and the syncro has gone in second. Anyone have a spare 1.8 8v GTI Gearbox that is in good condition (ie, no rattles or noises) Cheers Chris

Hi guys, I am really stuck. My car has started to lose a lot of water, I initially thought it was the pipes leading to the oil filter housing as these looked like they were furred up with a coolant beard :D So i took the pipes off and cleaned them up and replace the pipes, put the car back together and water started to come out. I have had the right hand supercharger bracket off and realised there is a water way behind and there is an o-ring..........I went to VW and they have discontinued this o-ring and. So they gave me the dimensions of the o-ring (26.5 mm by 2 mm) I went to a car parts shop and managed to by a 27mm x 3mm o-ring, put the car back together and ever since its been leaking. can a .5mm in diameter and 1mm thickness really cause the bracket to leak, Any other idea's? I think my car hates me, I have been saying i will sell it and now i am, its decided to throw its toys out the pram. Please help Beavisjem

Well after having lots of fun doing the sound at the John Peel stage at Glasto :D i was driving back to Norwich and less than 1/4 mile from my house the car died and didn;t restart. I thought i had stalled it so i decided to try starting again. Had a good poke around and had fuel and had spark, couldn't understand why it didn't start until i checked the cambelt. I think the tentioner has failed and its stripped the teeth of the cambelt. So......... Is the G60 an interfering engine? Any other idea's? I am going to get a an new cambelt, tentioner and other bits but just wanted to know if i have damaged anything else. Beavisjem

I had a clifford alarm that sometimes wouldn't disarm. Apparently if its an older clifford the alarm module aerial gets interference from all the wi-fi stuff and stops the car responding to the remote. Apparently you can buy new aerials that work better, jsut plug and play. Don;t know how much. This might be utter rubbish but when i was having clifford alarm problems this is the info i found, i had another error with the alarm that mean i ripped it out and replaced it before trying this idea. Hope it helps, Don;t forget to try a different battery in the fob, might just been running low. Beavisjem

Right had another play with the car and checked the oil and the leads in the engine bay. Now the oil light only flashes when the car is idle. Not while driving and not when cornering. Just flashes when its idles. But the engine note doesn't change nor does it sound or feel like its going to stall. Any ideas before i head off to the garage to see what the problem is. Cheers Beavisjem

Hi Guys, VW G60 1992 145k miles When i dip the clutch, the revs drop just below the idle speed for a couple of ms and the oil light comes on and goes off. I get this when i pull up to a stop or leave the clutch down too long between changes. The car never stalls. Just the oil light flicks on and off. I never get the oil buzzer sound and there is plenty of oil in the car. Topped it up and its still flashing at me. Comes on as normal when put the key in the ignition and never comes on when i'm driving. Don't get a light when cornering hard either. Everything else running as normal, not using much oil (always used a little, 1 liter per 5000miles) Oil is 12 months old and 5000 miles. Any ideas? I'm stumped. Beavis

If you push the Lock pin down on the drivers side (door closed) does it lock the whole system? If yes it might be the wiring to the handle, if not then it might be the wiring on the central locking pump in the door, The pump should trigger the system when you push the pin down. Beavisjem

Thought i would update you all.... Success :clap: :clap: :clap: Right i disconnected the 2 pipes coming from the heater matrix. Then i poured a strong mix of soda crystals and water down the inlet pipe. Ran about 1 litre through the pipe. I then connected my garden hose up to the return and secured it with a juberliee clip. Then ran water through for about 5 mins at full pressure. Then connected it all back up and filled the water up and added coolant. I squeezed the matrix pipes with the expansion cap off until the stat opened. Then topped up and put the expansion cap on. I now have roast your eyebrows style heat from my heater :) Now just have to sort the window motor that broke when it was an inch from top. :( MY CAR HATES ME Beavisjem

Hello, All this on a 1992 G60 I am having some problems with my heaters. I have done a search and followed some advice but its not really solved it. Basically they warm up ok and then gets rubbish. It used to be painfully hot but now its medium hot at best. It also changes temp on different speeds. 1 it stays hot, 2, medium heat, 3 luke warm and on 4 it really starts to cool down. Right, I do have a small coolant leak on the right side of the head but nothing dramatic. I have run the car up to temp and the fan kicks in and the stat opens. This all seems to be fine. The car up to temp seems to be around 100 so this is normal. I have got myself a new expansion cap (blue top) and that didn't fix it. I have the correct amount of coolant in the car and i can feel the pipe to the matriix is red hot but the return is only ever hot but not red hot. I gave the whole system a squeeze while warming up hoping to get all the air out and that seemed to help for about a day and then it went back to being rubbish. The water pump is only 12 months old so I think that's OK. Although there doesn't seem to be much water running back into the expansion tank from the pipe above the radiator, what the flow meant to be like? I don't have a damp foot well and the car doesn't smell of coolant. It mists up a bit but soon clears up when i turn the blower on the screen. Is my matrix blocked? How much affect does a coolant leak have on the temp? I have to top up every 2 months. Any idea's would be helpful. Thanks Beavijem

10 days? Thats a long time. Suppose it is Christmas. I got a local windscreen fitter to take mine out for £10 when i had my car sprayed and you can get them put back in easily enough. Another 10 mins. Hardest part is sourcing a second hand one. Problem when removing them is not to cut through the rubber surround. So very easily done. Proper windscreen places have a right angled blade that does the job. If its insurance then get autoglass to do it. If not find a nice local glass fitter to remove the old window and put a new one in when you get it. Beavisjem I think they are over £200 from the dealer.

I think the rear windows in a Rado are there to give strength to the shell. That's why they are bonded in. Beavisjem

Cheers Beavisjem

Hi there, After being locked out of my car several times because my Clifford alarm fob wouldn't disarm i finally had enough. I couldn't even open the door because the alarm would run the central locking. Had to go through the boot while the alarm goes off, open the bonnet, disconnect the battery and reset the alarm. Total nightmare. I decided to rip out the alarm system (dodgy install, after ripping the unit out i managed to start the car within 5 mins, not a very good alarm) So now i need someone ASAP (car is not being driven so its not at risk) to fit me an alarm. Problem is I would like to get it done before Christmas. I don't mind traveling to get it done. There was a guy who was recommended on the forum but i can't find his name. I am based in Norwich. Anyone got any advice?

I had a similar problem with my clifford, I found that the alarm had dead locked the doors and if you tried to open the car the central locking pump would engage and keep the door pins down. My fob stopped working as well. I was told by a couple of people that the old clifford alarm airels get alot of interference from wireless internet and general stuff in the air. You can get a replacement airel from clifford that might help. As for getting in your car there are a couple of options. 1. You could try pulling the door handle as you turn the key and see if you can catch the lock before the pump engages. 2. You can try doing the same on the boot lock as this seems to be easier to catch before the alarm cuts in. 3. Open the bonnet from underneath (search forum) disconnect the battery and unlock the car. 4.Hold the button on the remote, when the alarm goes into panic mode try and un-arm with the remote. Sometimes this resets the alarm. Hope this helps Beavisjem

Had a simlar problem, speed sensor on the gearbox. They are not expensive. There are 2 types, one with a righ angle plug and one with a straight plug, just take the old one in and get a replacment. I think its a dealer only part. Chris

What a nightmare, just had to climb through the boot of my car because the alarm fob wouldn't respond to opening my car. With alarm going off and scramblerling through the back i managed to put the key in the ignition and disarm the alarm. I then proceeded to get out of the driver’s door and close the boot, the drivers door shut as i went round to the boot and as i shut the boot my alarm decided to re-arm itself :bad-words: Keys were still in the ignition. I then had to walk a mile to get a lift home where i got my spare key. Got back to the car and couldn’t open it because it was dead locked :bad-words: So had to walk another mile and another lift later to get my spar fob. Got back to the car and opened it. Decided to drive home and have a look at the alarm and see if i could diagnose the problem, currently it seems to be the ariel. I have 3 fobs and most (90%) of the time the alarm doesn’t respond to any of them. Anyways i was admiring the C*** job of the wiring of the alarm.... twisted wires with insulation tape, cut into the loom really badly when a couple of wires came off in my hands lol, i connected them back and the alarm just clicked away, seemed to be totally borked :bad-words: By this time i had had enough and proceeded to learn how it worked so i could bypass it, embarrassingly i managed to bypass the £400 alarm (previous owner had been charged for a clifford 550) in about 5 mins. Just 2 wires, not particularly good imho. Must have just been fitted wrong. Anyways i ripped out the brain and chucked it in the boot, probably do more use stopping the stuff in my boot moving about. :D So i need a new alarm. Have never had to purchase an alarm before and i have had a look through various website and was wondering what people would recommend. What i want the alarm to do.......... Lock unlock with fob, Immobiliser CAT 1 Close windows if they are open on lock Bleep if people look in (my old clifford would do this) RELIABLE Not to fussed with remote start (wouldn't mind) or other crazy things, Voice warning etc. So i was wondering what advice people have and what do you get if you spend more on an alarm....... Cheers Beavisjem

You can still get it from the dealers but it will cost you around £30 :bad-words: Beavis

As far as i'm aware there are 3 slam panel types, Early found mainly on pre july 1992 cars inc G60 and 16v (early exterior.) Then there is late exterior G60, 16v, 8v, etc which have another type of slam panel and then there is the VR, all slam panels are interchangeable but the radiator might not sit right due to where the radiator is held at the top of the slam panel, i think the holes are different. I'm not sure if there is an early slam panel for VR as i think they were made after the facelift. (Might be wrong) Basically i have found that the early panels pre 92 don;t have the extra hole for mounting the newer 3 slat grill. If the car is a 91 then i would assume its the early slam panel. The early slam panel will fit. This is what i have worked out after going buying and selling 4 slam panels. I currently have a late VR panel on a facelift G60. This might help. Chris

Thermostat stuck closed? Beavisjem

Hmmm one of the reasons is i need to move it out the way to get to the 10 foot of excess cable the arm fitters left behind the fuse box and also i have 2 plugs from the door loom hanging out, they are the power for the central locking and the plug for the door swith. Do both of these plug into the fuse box, at the moment i don;t have any central locking. No sound from the pump. the windows still work so the fuse hasn;t blown. Will have a look how tight it is. Cheers

I called 6 local places up and nobody wanted to know :( Have you tried some of the smaller companies, man in a van types i found the major ones didn;t really want to know because they didn't want to break the window. I found a guy who works for himself and he was happy to sort it for me. Good luck Beavisjem

Due to some rubbish Alarm fitters my fuse box has never sat right. I was wondering if i pull all the plugs out the back and sort the wiring behind the fuse box will my car ever work again :confused4: I read in another post that each plug into the fuse box can only go in one position. Is this correct? Don;t want to be in a tangle of wires. Cheers Beavisjem

You can go and see some local windscreen places, some of them will take them out for you for a little cash in hand :) They will however take no responsiblity if they break them, but a good windscreen place should have no problems, i have had mine out twice in the last 5 years with no problems. The will bond them back in for you aswell for another nominal price. Beavisjem