vdubCorrado

Well, I thought I was getting out of Corrados after 15 years, sold off all my rare parts for my project, and 2 years later started on it again... Now that I sold them I have to replace them. Looking for manual / crank window regulator assemblies. Looking for both left and right. Handles for them aren’t a must but I would take them. Oh, they’d have to be shipped across the pond but Royal Mail isn’t bad for that... Thanks!

I might have a full LHD one from a 91 Corrado G60. I only need the body wiring. If you're looking for LHD stuff I'll peek through my wiring stuffs from my life long project

Paid for some buckets earlier today, just gotta wait for em to show up

Thanks for the responses. My glass/lenses are flawless and the reflectors aren't peeling so I'm pretty set there ...but as mentioned, I would take full lights, the extra parts aren't exactly a bad thing. I know I have a couple RHD lenses in stock still haha.

Well... got out of Corrados a while and sold off all of my European market parts. My newest Corrado has late headlights but all 4 tabs across the top are broken. Seems like all the old time Corrado people in the states have called it quits so I have to harass you guys for parts haha. That being said the lights need to be shipped to Baltimore MD, USA ...post code 21222 What I really need is just the plastic buckets so I would be interested in early or late lights, I'll take them with or without lenses (RHD lenses aren't so great on LHD cars), or just buckets ...but ultimately I need all the tabs to be solid. If you're breaking a Corrado with power levelers and would sell me the wiring plugs with leads of wire for the light leveling motors, the switch, and the wiring for the switch I would discuss that as an option as well.

Sounds tasteful! :lol: it's not esp since it hasn't been inproduction since the late 90's... and i think it was rather clear i did not put it on, and the price to replace Corrado parts was and is too riculously priced to bother when i was more concered with my 1.9L lysholm, or the stage 4 G60, or the G60 turbo i had in it... none of my corrado ever have or ever will be my daily driven car haha don't trust them as far as i can spit... i never put more than 4,000 miles on any of them i've owned HAHA

no, it's a stupid crazy rare dash kit in the states that's a red/black carbon fiber stick on... the guy who had it before me did it and i never wanted to spend the money replacing everything to take it off... so now i am gonna pull all the stuff and is being replaced with carbon fiber pannels i am going to hand lay so i can mount all of my autometer gauges in place cause all of the factory stuff is going including the gauges... it reall should just be a race car but i'm gonna try getting away with street driving it maybe one or two times a month in the summer... cause it's gonna have a cage in it too... thinking 10 point weld in... gonna have a place in another state do it called Performance Fabrications... they make hill climb cars from scratch using snowmobile enignes and do cages in all kinds of race cars...

i haven't been taking pics while messing with it even though i should have been... so here was the car closest to being together before i started tearing it down to start building it... (the crappy exhaust was only temp so it was quiet enough to move in and out of the garage with out the neighbors yelling) just a picture of me getting started on the interior... Kwik Wire universal body wiring so i can replace and hand wire the entire car... the less wire, the less weight, the less weight the faster i go haha... but the SDS EM4F was for the 16vTurbo i have that's fully built but is no longer going in the car... so yeh... i wasn;t ver big on pictrues with it... sorry... when it's finished i'll post up pictures though

so it was nice out in Baltimore, Maryland and i had a few hours before i was going out last night so i went into town and took a few pics... it only cost me $10... or uh... £5 to park in that garage HAHA that sucked... but i got some good pics of the car... she's up for sale so worst case i have nice pictures to remember it by... it's a 90 G60 repainted Imola Yellow, a color off of the 25th anniv. GTI... i enjoy it but it's been taking alot of my money and parts away from finishing my red Corrado race car that from time to time i plan to drive on the street :shock: (3.0L VR6 fully forged bottom end, big valve head, ported, polished, and 3 way valve job all done by Schimmel Performance. i will be severely let down if the car makes less than 600whp...)

i carefully took the time to measure out exactly where the tabs need to be, drilled holes at the very far points of each slot, then cut from top of hole to top of hole and bottom as well on all 3 across the top with a Dremel that has a cut off wheel on it... then the bottom holes... worked like a charm! easier to convince the radiator support to make the grille fit i thought

i have one that was originally Nugget Yellow which is now Imola Yellow and the other is Tornado red... dunno what to vote

so i thought some of my friend's acrossthe pond might like to do something withn their Riegre self destructing grille like i have instead of throwing it away, so here is what i did... took the broken grille cut off all the lower part and made the top bar into an eyebrow for a late model badgeless grille! here's the back side... and the car that the grille is going back into :D

Torsten, you're tryign to say none of us across the pond would help you out? i could have dug up a US bumper... but well i guess then again shipping isn't really cheap but maybe in comparison to the cost of a new bumper at the dealer?

so here's the deal with the Black and Blue sensors... when you swaqp them back and forth they're supposably capable of making the ECU or the gauges function properly... i have never had that be the case... it lets you know if one of them are functioning improperly but that's about it... and the reason i think this may be is because the black sensor has been updated i believe twice since i have been buying them regularly... Black - gauges Blue - water temp replace them both they're cheap... i don;t think paid any more than what would be for you guys £15

lemme think... $550 for pistons $350 for rods so about uh... £450 for new forged rods and pistons... and if you can get away with it keep your factory crank... the new pistons come with rings... you will still need crank and rod bearings as well as wrist pins... so maybe throw in another £100 say £550 then if you're good assemble it yourself, or have shop do it... i think though your best bet would be the parts from here in the USA... it seems like alot of things in the UK cost more...

personally what i would do is run a compression test on the cylinders... if compression is good across all cylinders and not too variant there is nothing wrong with the bottom end... not sure if you're familiar with doing compression tests, but you get a gauge that goes in place of a spark plug, disconnect the coil pack wire, turn the car over a couple of times so the cylinder fully pump then check the number. then move on to the next cyl... if the head is redone, and the bottom end is good on compression, then it's probably just that you're used to the power the car makes so now it seems sluggish... i would go out and buy a 50mm intake manifold and a set of cams... autotech are a good cam cause they add power N/A or turbo. they are a rather conservative cam design so fuel efficiency is not comprimised all too much... not sure how they'll effect your MOT though? i would say the 50mm inlet over the 42 even though you lose tq because of the way the engine is built. shorter stroke, higher RPM's, and higher hp than tq. keeping the 42mm inlet over the 50mm i think is just counter acting what the engine is ment to be... again this is my personal opinion... i do know engine building and the concepts of, but i won't say what you should and should not do to your car because it is that... your car not mine... just voicing my opinion here...

if you're gonna pay someone to powder coat why not pay someone to polish them?

that's ridiculous! £399 for one pass?!?! damn for that much money you can make a start to building your own car and take as many passes as you want haha alright £400 won't make a stupid fast drag car but hey if you cut and hack and remove alot of stuff you'd be suprised... i'm looking to get high 10's / low 11's with my red rado. fully built 16v turbo, 8pt roll cage, and stipped interior will be the final product... i started stripping the car today but it's really sunny and like 80 deg. fahrenheit... so what like uh? 27 celcius or so... and then inside a car baking in the glass make me sweat uncomfortably so i stopped... anyone want some USA automatic seat belts? :lol: and soon pulling my electric window set up... as soon as i can get some manual ones...

correct me if i am wrong but a 16v is a 16v in a VW... so they're all horizontal mounted engines so the belt system can nto be driving a cooling fan. there for all VW's with horizontal mounted engines have electric cooling fans... but i would still gesture that your power steering is the one squealing because it does have a bit of pressure on that belt...

i dunno... i thought the same thing... sold my Corrado, got into Honda's... very reliable car... i had a 1992 Integra GSR Turbo (only the states got this car, and i then turbo'd it... has a B17A1, to my knowledge Honda's rarest engine) ...shortly after selling i spent 3 years trying to get mine back haha good luck hope you can get away with staying away but i wouldn't count on it hahaha

nice car my friend... it's funny i still can't decide if i like the early or late bonnet more... some angles really make the early bonnet really make the car look flat and dated, and some make it look like the car shouldn't have anything but and it was what defines VW hoods... center indent... but i guess i didn't have a choice since no one on this side of pond makes an early style carbon fiber... plan on keeping it early? very clean though... for a 1990 why does it have digital mile read out? i would have swore all 90's were cable driven reguardless of where the car was from? or it may have been another poor VW year change... my 91 had 1990 wheels, 1990 early style supercharger, but had the digital clocks...

curious... since a Corrado is based off of the MK2, is there any way i can make a MK2 manual window system work on my corrado with out extensive modifications? you may want to know why i am looking to go from electric to manual... for 2 reasons... save any weight i possibly can... and i am rewiring the car 100%. there will be not 1 single wire left in the car from VWAG when i'm done... the less i have to wire up the better haha... also what Corrados came with manual windows 16v's only right? did any come with a manual sunroof?

as well as a O2 sensor going bad...

you say early, how early? is it distributed or coil packed? cause it sounds pretty much exactly like a back coil pack... they are known to crack... when they crack to loose spark... and when it gets hotter the crack spreads even more and looses even more spark... causing the car to run even worse... i would like to say bad O2 sensor but it's not... the computer does not take any information at all from the O2 sensor while the engine is cold. when it reaches runnign temp the ECU reads the O2 and fi it is bad it will instantly start running poorly... so we can count that out... but if you say the coolant system straightened out the problem then i dunno what totell you haha

alternator... same thing happened with my red rado the first time i owned it... the battery is dead from the alternator not charging the battery and when you jump start it your car is getting power from the other car. when you disconnect the cables your car should be charged by the alternator, and since it is not the car tried to keep running by using the power form the battery. since that is also dead the car will not keep running and die usually immediately after disconnecting the jumper cables...