dannyboy

disconnecting the cold start valve puts the electrical side of fuel management out off the picture.No need to remove the valve.He isnt checking to see if the cold start is working,he is checking to see if its overfueling when cold. the revving to 2.5 k is probably clearing out the excess fuel in the cylinders

got an idea,turn ign to on postion but dont start for 30 seconds.then start. see if it makes a difference? from cold start of course

EXACTLY!!! And the rear beam bushes are not something you want to be replacing all the time,theyre a pain in the &r$e to get in

nope corrado doesnt have low fuel level warning lamp,just make sure you stay out of the red,its a guessing game once its in there.Blue temp sender is a common issue with all VWs around these years but is only apperent when hot not cold. you can look for the basics first- check vacuum hoses for holes or tears,check the dizzy and cap(oil seal goes on these and leaks oil into the dizzy) check the HT leads for cracks, electrical connectors that are loose. On the side of the inlet there is a cold start device that operates when cold(basicaly an injector) disconnect it and see if it makes a difference

that would indicate a electrical problem.Happy hunting is all i can say. if you havent already invested in a bentley manual i suggest you get one.rare cars like this dont have haynes manuals for them and will save you countless hours looking for problems

any car before april 1992 doesnt require a Cat and is allowed 3.5% CO by volume and 1200 HC ppm.After that you require a Cat and are only allowed 0.3% and 600 HC ppm. Pays to have a earlier car as the limit is quite generous.

quite interesting i found that the T121 ecu has two tacho outputs so i will try the other one out tomorrow.will report back with my findings

U1/6 goes directly to the rev counter generator.g1/12 is red/black on earlier cars that goes to the fuse box which then connects through the constant positive on the ecu relay which then connects to U1/6 green then to the tacho.i dont know if they used the same driver i have now three fault codes-warning lamp,crash signal and abs controller. as soon as the other codes were cleared after sorting out wiring and resistors,the lambda controller started working straight away. Yes!!! it has a bit of a habbit now after driving to rev up slighty then drop again(funny feeling its to do with the DFM on the alternator wiring now its connected) ---------- Post added at 10:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:47 PM ---------- :lol: spent so long writing you replied before i did!

looks like the piece on the end has broken off though,which accounted for the black soot all over the bay.go to a scrappy and grab one off another vw.their common item and its just a small piece of plastic/silicon.Or weld/bend it shut.I have never seen a garage use this for diagnoistics like its designed for.

can you see the bottom cable where it connects on the gear stick,normally this one causes the problem as the cable jumps off and jams in the side

:lol: im sure your being 'dragged' to see it :lol:

mine is a 1990 so mine will be the excat same.from 1991 onwards the clocks changed.Where have you conected it to? U1/6 directly or to g1/12(red/Black)? ---------- Post added at 10:33 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:26 AM ---------- So green/Red T121/81 to g1/12 will get the rev counter working normal?

Got the resistors in the post this morning,ended up with 100 33ohm ones(so ill have 99 spare) and 3 pretty big 330 ohm 11w ones. well off to finish the wiring today as im on holiday now,Yes!!!

U1/6 will be at the fuse box in the footwell not engine bay.that green wire should go to the old digifant ecu.Have you not removed it?

right if its a 1990 car or earlier the red/black wire is connected to the coil g1/12 was for the tacho(as yours is in the engine bay you have earlier car i believe) which is correct however on earlier cars this wire was also connected to constant positive on the old ecu relay. So to that end it believe connecting the tacho adpator output directly to the green wire at U1/6 (goes to the tacho directly but shares the same connection to the oil control unit in the dash which may be the bleeping)cut wire U1/6 and splice wire directly to the tacho which will take the constant positive out of the question(obviously splice into one going to the tacho not to the fusebox) This may work but i cant guarantee it will as im still working on my own. How much was the tach driver?

give it a try when you get to the car but bear in mind it may be difficult if the cable is trapped between gear stick cable holders.Just lift the gaiter at look to see if both cable loops are still on.Theyre a bit difficult to see mind you so you'll need a torch ---------- Post added at 09:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:02 PM ---------- a long flat blade screwdriver can help too to get it on and get you car home to fix it properly

i seriously doubt it would be the gearbox,can you take it out of gear if you move the shifter tower in the engine bay?

Does it splutter or die completely instantly?

sounds like the shifter cable has jumped off the gear stick under the gaiter.Theres a C-clip that attaches to the end the hold the cable loop on and sometimes the clip breaks off and shifter cable loop pops off. Its a bit tricky to get in due to small space but an easy fix ---------- Post added at 08:30 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:28 PM ---------- happened to mine,put a washer and split pin in-never had a problem since

my TB does mapake a constant high pitch whine when i turn ignition on,thinks thats quite normal,you just dont hear it once engine is started. My g60 ecu relay isnt used for anything now. Im meant when you disconnect the n249 valve it puts the ecu in limp mode and tells the n75 valve to open the wastegate sooner.All ive done is connected the n112 valve onto N249 connector(because none came with the engine and valves are the same) and put a length of pipe straight from the DV to the inlet manifold. You have the APX wiring diagram as well from what i gather on pdf. Did you know there a second one thats slighty differnet and ive just solved my own question again,apx does in fact have ecu relay and i know which wire it is

'17695 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249) P1287 - 35-00 - Open Circuit This will limit boost quite a bit,i took the N112 valve off and put it on the N249 connector left of number one coil pack as its the same connector. Mine's Wednesday, 16 November 2011, 19:25:34:43355 VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.1 Control Module Part Number: 8L0 906 018 M Component and/or Version: 1.8L R4/5VT 0002 5 Faults Found: 18057 - Powertrain Data Bus: Missing Message from ABS Controller P1649 - 35-00 - - 18084 - EPC Warning Lamp (K132) Circuit: Electrical Malfunction P1676 - 35-00 - - 17840 - Secondary Air Injection Solenoid Valve (N112): Open Circuit P1432 - 35-00 - - 17925 - Power Supply Relay for ECU (J271 or J363): Electrical Malfunction P1517 - 35-00 - - 17931 - Crash Signal from Airbag Controller: Implausible Signal P1523 - 35-00 - the ecu one is the one that concerns me,Maybe because i dont have pin W on the alternator hooked up.So you have three wires on your alternator connected then, two small ones and big red ---------- Post added at 09:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:11 PM ---------- just found that pin 28 does indeed need to go to DFM on the alternator so will have to add a wire to that tomorrow. my lambda is working but the ecu is not using it as controller is on zero at the moment and block 32(fuel trims) are both reading zero all the time even before reseting it so problem so it indicates a problem

pity you dont have your motor finished yet but good things come to those who wait ;) In all fair honesty im comin in at three in the morning so unless your like me (bit of a madhead) and drive at stupid o'clock in the morning you wont see me.Might swing by on the way back though as got few hours to kill and its at normal hours

looking good man.What type of fmic is that? My Golf G60 is great fit but the pipes are a complete ar$e ache as left one needs a sharp 120 degree bend.Plus trying to find the radiator from g60 that ends in 'H' is a pain as one i have is 3-4 inch smaller

ive changed 3 of these black sensors in the past 1 and half years.They dont like water at all!!! and theyre way more expenisive than the BTS