dannyboy

Do you have a resistor in the N112 valve as well?think it might overfuel if this code has flagged up. ive just went to a scrappy and bought N80 off a audi(end in same number so i suppose theyre pretty much the same) for fiver and think it may have helped,not sure yet-might have to clear the codes on VAG-COM. One bigger problem remains that i cant understand is the code 'ECU power relay J217 intermittent' or something like that.Ive given the ecu a constant feed to pin 62,so shouldnt be a problem. One other question is have you given pin 28 feed from ecu(blue/purple) to alternator pin W? i have not idea apart from i think its many used as a voltage reference or rpm feed.But surely thats what the engine rpm sensor on front of the block does.

ah traction control,got you

sounds like you ignition timing is out,does it have a dizzy?

you should have posted in driveline fellow. Whats eds?

sump will leak when driven as the pressure in the crankcase will blow oil out the part where its not sealing correctly.Shouldnt leak when engine isnt on ---------- Post added at 11:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:01 PM ---------- do the sump gasket first then,you can do it yourself to save money but the few bolts at the flywheel side are a pain in the ar$e to get at without proper U/J

sorry just to say id change the sump gasket first before as its easiest(and cheapest) done first ---------- Post added at 10:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:55 PM ---------- think its 068103051G as its quite a common seal across the vag range

take the small plate off that covers the flywheel near the sump.(got small piece of rubber on it too) Get you finger in behind the flywheel.You may get a bit of oil if the sump seal is gone but not much.if its dripping off when you start the engine then you may have to start looking at a new crank seal

Thats the PCV system that makes it look like your turbo seals are gone,dont worry their not.Take the PCV off the intake pipe just after the maf,dip your finger in and you'll see oil. Im on standard map,haven't plumbed in guage yet so i dont know boost readings yet.your readings sound normal so your looking good On block 30 you should have one box with 011 or 111 or 110 in it.ideally it should be 011 or 111 most of the time on block 31 you should have 1.0 0.8 is rich and 1.2 is lean on block 33 you will see the lambda sensor voltage 0.2 is lean 0.8 is rich ,it should be in middle when cruising ---------- Post added at 10:47 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:33 PM ---------- some new additions- Boost guage and A/F guage holder that slots into center console. And picking up the pcv hose and turbo seal i noticed a model of corrado ive never heard of :lol: they know me so much by now,when i go to the parts desk he has the audi tt parts screen ready for me!

oops... not something you want to be doing all the time! my 20v sump is the lowest part of the car so im not happy about going over speed bumps and ive decided to keep car at standard ride height. Could have been worse,the crank output seal could have went on the gearbox side.thats a big job

your valve guides and stem seals sound ok because you'd be sucking in air through the breather if they were worn(on idle,not boost) Blow is normal,sucking isnt

mine over fuels too,seems to have got little better as ive found a large hole in the s-shaped breather pipe under the manifold and bought new one along with new turbo output flange gasket. Got a jetex too and decat also-ive got the resonated system as i wanted it to be quieter.on vcds block 30 to 33 is all im looking for for lambda valves. I think because of my fault code p1426 N80 valve open circiut the fuel trim is running rich so i need to put resistors in or run an EVAP unit

send them an email with the picture to their complaints department.They may give you a new set or your money back.unforunately its their call but you can tell them you've already bought another set of plugs(tell them bosch ones ;) )

they might give you your money back,theyre goods have failed in service not due to fair wear and tear so your intitled to your money back. Depends where you got them from

if its leaking at the front,the oil return from the charger hose could be split or not tightened properly.its difficult to see and you really need to get under the car to see under the supercharger leaking over the gearbox is the union on the head where charger oil feed pipe starts or the pipe work above it.oil feed pipe can kink quite easily there The hole in the inlet manifold,does it look like a piece has broken away between runner 1 and 2? thats normal casting mark.all mine have it

your running super 4s in a 20vt?! shame on you! only use original platinuim plugs-they'll last 60-80 thousand. But ive never see that before,doubt many people have.You are lucky as if the insulator fell off you'd end up with some serious cylinder damage. Bring them back to bosch,see what they say! you may get brand new set for free since its defective parts. but dont put them in your 20v

Alex do you have any spare sets?Only just noticed this today!!

I had the excat problem you had and it turned out to be the fuel pump became dislodged from its mounting in the fuel tank.even when it showed 1/4 tank. But it could be coincidence older g60s have two pumps,earlier had one. the older two is the same one off a mk2 gti 16v which get noiser as they start to fail. intank ones are quiet on newer ones so hard to detect when it fails but you should hear it prime when you turn ign key on. Removing the intank pump retaining ring can be a bit of a pain.I use a flat-blade screwdriver to tap it off the thread.Undo fuel pipe clips and electrical connector. then twist the top half of the pump out,then twist bottom half to undo it from the tank(if its still in place)

Id say you'd really want to worry more about axial play rather than end float as the crank and head should both have a small amount of end float between them so intermediate shaft will only move as much as the bottom or top end end-float allows. From your video it doesnt look excessive at all,looks quite normal. From what i gather it sounds more like a oil problem if its dissappering when warm,maybe oil pressure to the top end/tappets isnt as good as it should be?Maybe oil is too thin?

Yes you can, and its even possible to do it while the box is on the car(difficult though)but you'll need gear-puller and doing this first time your very likely to damage the teeth on the gear ring so it may not out-weigh the problems of just fitting a box as opposed to running the risk on damaging the teeth trying to remove fifth gear. If you have mechanical knowledge and correct tools you can try the fifth gear but you still have to source the the two gears needed. Ive got 1,300km drive back to ireland(meath) for christmas,do what i usually do at christmas.... :drinking: Thanks for comments guys,feel more that people help each other,the better the forum gets!!!

most vags can run pretty good with baseline tables,just depends on what sensors are not reading when they should be. i know that you can write sensors out of the software or you can turn them off.which one youve have done,dont know-prob cheaper to to turn off sensor than reprogram

does your model have four or two? Yeap running without sensors,especially lamba will put the car into limp and run base-line tables which always run rich.you wont get adpative mode because its in limp mode(supposed to get you home or to the garage) To get adpative mode, clear your faults and sort sensor problems then it will work.And dont do what i did with my 20vt.Put a switched live on a feed thats supposed to be perm live and wonder why the Thorttle body done an adpation every time i turned the damn thing on!!

how sensitive are R32s to sensor faults? if there similar to 1.8t ecus theyre a pain as they run base-line tables all the time if they dectect a fault or out-of-range measurement. You using oem mangement or aftermarket?

It does sound like the pressure pump(one under the car)is on its last legs but it could be the fuel filter hasnt been changed.HG arent as common as people think on 16v engines. HG are usually down to poor mainantance(topping up the coolant with a'bit of old water til its diluted that much theres no coolant left in the system so corrosion sets in) and beening too harsh on the engine when cold(revving too much). HG usually brings on overheating and coolant/oil cumsumption get him to take you for a drive doing 70mph to see if hg is playing up be wary all i can say,

What have you done about the abs light?is yours on? mines not working at the moment prob due to missing digifant ecu or maybe something im missing... Im dreading MOT time as mines overfuelling a bit at the moment on idle but then again ive got no cat on there,just a straight jetex system.20vt do sound evil at high RPMs and quiet at lows with jetex on!!! Have you seen this video??? It sounds excatly like mine,just mine doesnt move as quick and maybe a little quieter

oh thats good question! i believe LHD ABS have a pump internal with a pressure acummulitar so i didnt need to use the vacuum. Do you have the black and white one way valve attached? Is yours not abs model?