dannyboy

if you can move the track rod ends or any component on the suspension with ease chances are its worn. Corrados are very fussy with suspension geometery,ive given up trying to get it perfect even after replacing every single bush and full alignment. Doesnt tramline really but has a bit of play somewhere in the steering that i cant find!

Good lad, once the corrado bug has bitten you'll never be without another one again!

Its tight either side of the tunnel ,isnt it kev? I get the occaisonal tap when driving but youve gone for the same system as me expect youve got a big 3.2 in there! the exhaust is a nice sound btw.

Is that mechanical flap for a active exhaust?? thats a nice touch and very well built exhaust.

Welcome buddy,beautiful conversion looks like it belongs there!! Ill be driving past Eindhoven next month.Dont like the antwerpen ring road, its a pain. Have you started to terrorise the public with your beast yet?

Well more time in the garage.... The misses is getting annoyed that i spend more time in there than in the house.Told her she goes before the car...Im currently walking around the house dazed with a head shaped dent in the frying pan that the wife uses more to 'educate' me more than she cooks with it. Oh well...love,or something like that? Footpedal height sorted. and a nice BIG K&N filter added. Opted for the XD version of the filter as the filtration level is higher than normal one at the tiny expense of flow which is what i wanted.I'll be relocating the battery to the other side at a later date and shield the heat away from the filter but since its winter it doesnt matter

Nice to see someone else who kept the original sebrings! thought i was the only one how uses 15 inch alloys :lol:

i would check to see if the connections have splayed out and check for corrosion.Get a torch and youself down that footwell and check connections. Water seems to get in on the bulkhead and first place it drops on is the fusebox,great!

Do you have the under-body fuel pump? If you do you need to delete the under body one and install intank pump for a VR or g60 one as valver ones are too high a pressure. Cant remember if pierburg or bosch is better but ive got two pierburgs and they havent failed (yet)

I run standard suspension so i cant comment on on stiffness(had rock-hard suspension on last one,didnt like it) but even fitting different tyres sizes can change the characteristics of the car. I had 195/50/15 on the front and 205/50/15 on the rear. this alone induced more oversteer due to the rear tyres been a bit stiffer. Ive literally just put my winter tyres on hour ago and theyre 195/50/15 all round and the car feels more neutral.lower profile tyres are stiffer,help handling but theyre not as forgiving when you take them to the edge of cohesion as softer walled tyres

buzz may be from the fuel rail as fuel passes through or you maybe hearing the isv buzz. Try this turn the engine off and remove the key.Behind the ISV take the single spade connector off the thermo switch(brown wire) Earth the wire to the engine block by touch it to metal.The fan and the pump should run together(youve find the pump is difficult to hear over the noise of the fan so feel the fuel hose) At the end of the fuel rail disconnect the brown,two pin connector for the fuel pressure switch.touch the single connector on engine metal again.only the fan should run.to listen if the pump is running disconnect the fan.The pump should not run.If it does you have a short somewhere

The fuel overrun is a feature.Unplug the brown connector at the right hand side end of the fuel rail(where the U rubber pipe connects to) This will stop the fuel pump overrun from working but on hot days you may end up with vapour lock causing hard restarting. is the fan overruning to? if so the small thermistor behind the ISV is earthing out(common fault causing flat batteries on G60s)

The oil pressure switch should be bigger of the two and it is black with a vertical spade connector. The oil temp sensor is brass and about half the size with a horizontal spade t piece. The sensor is earthed through the filter housing so one multi-meter probe to the connector and other to the body,stick it on ohms.but as said above the test isnt really valid because sensor may work but just inaccurate.not sure if theyre still available but you can ask or find one at a scrappy

good lad adam, Ill prob see you down the ring at some point next year now your motors sorted! Four months in canada then home in time for the snow to melt and ring to open.

Ill get it done as soon as my k&n filter comes through the post which is next week.At the moment im trying to drive as little as possible as the filter i have on at the moment is a ....cough...thick woolly sock :roll:

Just fitted the new cam position sensor,engine runs much better.Seems to have also solved the starting issue as well because it started every time i turned the key but ill have to see when its cold. The boost is now predictable,smooth and less spikey.Im sure a Remap at a later date will change that. Didnt even need to change gear when i overtake unless im in fifth as ive got a ASD gearbox attached to the engine. Next on list of things to do- Sort accelarator pedal height out,Sort Rev counter out,Find way to plug hole in the wirewall where loom goes through and find some hoses to suit the boost side as ive got a Golf intercooler fitted and the angle is around 120-130 dregrees but sharp bend as the hard pipe i made up is quite close to the serp belt and not the best fit Will post vid of a quick drive soon

check the wiring to the sensor on the filter housing.its a little t-piece and wiring is exposed and can touch metal.Make sure its not. My temps were similar to alex's, my oil temps get to 80C in cold weather after 7-8 minutes driving 70-100 kmph(about 40-60 mph)If im stuck in traffic it rises a bit quicker as theres no airflow to cool oil down.

Sounds like what i had mate,my fuel pump became dislodged from the bottom of the fuel tank where pump locks in. Pump was on a tilt,so on hills it was sucking air in with fuel beening a bit spluttery.on noticed mine because fuel guage stuck on quarter tank! otherwise mybe you should put more fuel in the tank ;)

As VCDS has constantly logged the same fault- G40 cam sensor open or wiring to plus it decided to dig a little deeper and remove the sensor.Look at what i found- This is when Cam/hall sensors go bad!!! never rule them out even though they 'should' have no contacting parts. Prob attributing to my hard starting problem

Me says you should prob check the 1m ecu hose too! easiest first anyway.if its been chipped the hose may not have been put on or come off the ecu

a little bit off topic but does anyone else have a problem with joiners for 2 1/2 inch exhaust.Ive bought two of them and both end up with a 1mm crease on the bottom allowing some of the exhaust through.and these are 20-25 quid ones too so theyre not cheap

Its still a bit tempermental at the moment as ive found the G40 cam sensor signal wire has a 20 ohm resistance!!so ive disconnected it.Instead of opening the whole loom im just going to add a wire to run from the start of the connector to the ecu connector.far easier.Sometimes it wants to go,splutters,kicks in,then repeats this over again but only when i floor it.If i take it easy its fine,apart from overrich exhaust smell so make me think its still running in limp mode. Ive still got the ABS problem,lights on and wheels lock but the pump is heard to run The club gti thread is the one i used too,

My rev counter isnt working at the moment,i just change by engine tone.If you have a digital cluster you need an Tacho adpator box that QPEG do,if you have an older cable drive like mine i think you can bridge a diode on the back to get it working but i havent got around to this yet.Im not really driving it hard yet because cam sensor needs fixxing. i gave it a blast on saturday and using it as a daily at the moment. Your 1992 wiring is different than my 1990 one,i believe G1/12 on my one is perm live rather than swicthed so i used G1/4 to pin 81 I dont have page 10 from the main wiring index,you dont have it by any chance?

Im asumming you mean the arm is pointing at the side of the core rather than covering top like 99% of spark plugs? This is normal on the g60.They are best, only use original bosch W6DPO platium plugs.Anything else can cause problems i cant remember gap off the top of my head but check if you search

have a look using search my friend.should be plenty of info. im pretty sure you can get blanking plate and connecting hose on ebay for 20-30 quid ---------- Post added at 08:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:31 PM ---------- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/S2-VW-CORRADO-GOLF-G60-DUMP-VALVE-KIT-/140639016687?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20bebd16ef