dannyboy

I'd keep away,I was going to buy one but dug a little deeper and found that some failed very early as with everything cheaper,its cheaper because its built c...heaper. I've learned over many years of Modding,cheaper product=higher risk of failure

I maybe able to talk you through it if u like quickly I had problems initially but sorted them

Do u have subs in the booth?or an amp?

Try this,it might help u http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?58538-The-MK3-Diesel-Gearbox-Thread&highlight=tdi+gearbox+thread

Check the relay,they're well known to fail themselves.it would have been the first thing I changed. Then its a case of fuel,spark and timing check.

Blue wire turns the 'idiot light' on the dash out to indicate alternator field is excited and ur voltage is over battery voltage ie over 13 volts.however it won't indicate how many amps its putting out.in other words the cables may be high resistance to the battery.feel them.if their quite hot u have a high resistance fault.also check for corrosion around the earth terminals and cables

Lots of wd40 and few hours make that difference between struggling and it popping out with ease.spray it overnight before finishing for d night and next morning it'll b piece of cake!(well easier)

Don't ever remember g60s running any imobiliser systems unless it was fitted after market or factory option.I'd seriously advise you to stay clear of that guy for the sounds of it.Brand new ecu will come with original programming that u don't need to touch if ur g60 is standard.u can't reprogram them anyway!they run a eprom chip with is swapped by opening the ecu. Take it from me,its a straight swap.I'm sure other guys on here will back me up. You may have to adjust ur idle setting,maybe CO level but that's it

Two heater wires are white and the signal wire is usually grey.I thought the generic narrow band sensors come like that anyway.you just pay an extra £40~ to have the connector on.I'd cut the connector off the old one and splice it onto the new.I'm just a tight git :-)

Yes, black on term 15,green on term 1.I've checked on manual too so yes. One thing to check as well is a contunity test on the green wire,take wire off set multimeter to ohms and check between pin 25 ecu harness plug and green wire terminal 1 coil.you should have 0.2 ohms or similar.this wire is the trigger for the coil to fire from the ecu.without it you'll have no spark

Engine must have had a bad curry lol

I always carry a dry powder extinguisher in the booth after what happened to my last rado ! Cheers for the heads up

Nice mod fellow :-) I have one similar but nowhere as neat in construction as yours! Get a group buy on the go as this is a mod that everyone will want. If u can get these made I'll take one!

It sounds a bit weird but the first day or two its quieter than OEM,then it will get a bit louder once the material inside has settled.just something I noticed when I fitted my jetex system.But the noise level is nowhere near as loud as other systems until u hit high rpms. Enjoy your new exhaust mate :-)

Check the 1m ecu hose and blue temp sender. Both are number one cause of overfuelling, especially the ecu hose.check its not worn or got holes in it.The length is crucial.

I done the same as u guildmage but my box is just about big enough to fit relays in with wiring but small enough to slip down beside the battery

Don't know about VR6 one but g60 one is only very slightly louder on idle to mid range than oem.top end is a few DB louder were it should be.I'm getting bit older so loud exhausts for me is no-no,everyone has their tastes but the jetex 3 box system is as OEM level as u can get so its perfect for me

Put me down for a set!

The multi-layer steel ones are better,they changed from older fibre ones to steel when they made the g60.unless you fry the cylinder head by overheating I've never really known steel ones to pop? I didn't think u could get the fibre ones anymore anyway unless there after market. I'd stick to a dealer one or find a reinz one.

Just make sure whatever you do,upgrade the small charger belt to the 11 or 12 mm one.if the belt snaps its game over for ur g-lader. Standard g60 pulley is 78mm,as the guys here said stick to the 68mm on,going smaller puts a lot of undue stress on the charger and they are fragile components. As said above removing restrictions in the inlet path is the best way to up the power without over speeding the charger. My first g60 had head work done,ported charger,de-wedged throttle,68mm pulley and 7200 rpm limit chip.it made about 11 PSI but the mid range/top end pull was brilliant and boost was smooth and linear.

Use the old soapy water to find where leak is when cold. Depends if its cracked or gasket is leaking. I tend to replace a exhaust manifold if I cracked,they can be rewelded on the cheap but they'll crack again after a few heat cycles so I replace as its a pain to remove and you only do it once

Nice to see another fellow Irishman with a raddo,meath man myself :-)

Long nose pliers make it much easier,taking it out and putting it back in

I agree with above,I didn't like the idea of taking g60 out but now I wouldnt change back now I have a 1.8t in the bay and it costs about the same as buying another charger.I just hated counting down the hours til it needed changing and parts are getting more expensive and harder to find. Also I was always worried about the seals going as they can go in a very short time even if u take care of the charger. All u will miss is the sound,but the Turbo sounds will make up for it :-)

If the slave cylinder blows it leaks internally in the bell housing of the gearbox,since the cylinder uses the brake resevoir fluid it sounds like seal is gone.check under the car where the bottom of bell housing is,it'll give you a better indication.unless the rubber hose is perished or union is leaking oil shouldn't appear there unless its from rocker cover.