dannyboy

G60s dont work like turbos,they work on positive displacement meaning they produce more boost than engine can use on idle and part throttle so boost is bleed off constantly. Putting all that on is a complete waste of money in my eyes,im sure most g60 guys will tell you the same. If you want noise then delete the boost return,most use this as it costs next to nothing

i want to go for a spin right now!!! but the wife wont let me!

sounds like the breather pipe,pics of the pipe would help

went to vw this morning,got new MAP sensor(boost sensor) as none came with the engine and wired it in as i originally chopped wire off by mistake when removing unused connectors..uupps. its like every sensor i get working the engine output is increasing massiviely.prob due to sensors working and not beeing in default mode.I put the power down in secong gear,it wheel-spun.third wheel-spun. The G40(cam-sensor) is short to pos somewhere in the loom as its flagging up 23 ohms on a straight wire.Maybe sensor itself is fubared.Probably whats causing engine to run rich as you can smell it from the exhaust. Anyone know for certain if the APX engine is narrowband or wideband?Ive searched,some say narrow,others wideband.My lamba is giving a voltage so its working but im sure a wideband ecu will need to see a 0-5volt as opposed to 0-1 volt narrow band

I have a new love,my raddo. Found out why some of the sensors were not getting power,gave them a feed and took her for a spin last night. The grin went from the front of my face to the back of my head,its so much fun-ive fallen in love again with her! Some some more bugs to work out but... im happier now

right,just gave my baby her first run with her new engine- Happy and sad at the same time. It was flat as a pancake first,found the recirc valve was leaking badly,put other on,same again and found 'N' valve and the surge stopped.better. The DBW pedal i will have to adjust as its too far off the ground,but still driveable. It was beutiful how smooth the engine was,but the when the pedal is pressed you intinally think its going to be a rocket but kept pressing it and not much happened,dissappointing. Think its running in limp mode as the top end is very screwy,massive drop in power and generally guttless Going to scan her,see what i get

good lad,didnt realise how quiet 20vt are to the roaring g60s nice to see yours is coming along!

Mines been running and finished boost pipes last night but hard to start sometimes.Also coming up with the cam sensor short curcuit/earth fault which could be the problem.Just the fuel pump not priming is amplifying it. Might bridge the overrun wiring but dont see what good that will do as the pump is controlled by the relay which is controlled by the ecu.I have one idea that it may be,audi tt fuel pumps prime when the door is opened bit like the glow plugs on diesel vw's so if i can find the wire to the primer switch on the pinout maybe it will make it prime when corrado door is opened?! ---------- Post added at 06:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:22 PM ---------- sorry just had a look,the 225 engines dont have switch for priming so its upto the ecu then ---------- Post added at 06:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:00 PM ---------- Just had a look,g71 hall sensor short to ground code fault.could be problem too

My starting problem has returned.I think its a fuel problem-fuel pump only seems to work on cranking and engine started.Obiviously it would help if the fuel pump primed first,maybe that might be the prob. I know on a g60 the ecu internally controls the earth for the relay switch which the 1.8t ecu has too but g60 had a fuel pressure switch on the end of the fuel rail(part of the fuel overun unit) The ecu is deffo in control of the pump because on VCDS you can run a test to check and first thing it checks is the N80 valve which is carbon cansister.I have deleted mine but the fuel pump runs well so not the pump or relay itself-could be the ecu power itself as i keep getting intermitted power code on vcds.seems to be when its cranking. 1990 ecu relay had a diode attached to the cranking live circuit as well as switched live on the relay coil side.1991 onwards only has switched live pin. Maybe my problem lies there but with the diode there it shouldnt matter! any thoughts guys?

random indictator problems are usually the brushed tracks on the indictator arm on the steering collum.Clean them with electrical cleaner and they'll work again Does your hazards work correctly?

Glad you found problem mate,i never rule out a new part as cause of the problem because its happened to me before!!!

cheers for the offer owen,poole's more bouremouth way isnt it?

dunkirk-dover mate,i always use it cause its cheap,but its a 7 hour drive

cheers greeny-i really was about to throw the towel in. but im the kind of bloke who wont bloody stop until i find the problem or sort it even though i say ive had enough about 100 times! Hopefully ill be driving it home from germany when im on my christmas leave,might pop by to see your beast

no worries buddy,glad to help

cant remember if g60 is clockwise or anti-clock wise.Take cap off and see which way it spins the intermediate shaft is connected to the timing belt which spins the oil pump and the dizzy.it is a bit of a pain to keep in timing when putting timing belt on.It doesnt matter much because the dizzy still needs to be moved to put the timing of the spark correct.it can be upto 180 degrees out if shaft moved when belt was put on

check the large red wire that goes to the starter then to the battery has good contact also A discharged battery will cause the regulater to up the voltage which will drop as the battery is becoming charged but this should happen slowly.and voltage shouldnt drop below 13 volts uless theres a massive draw on the system Best way to check the battery-charge it,check the voltage once you turn engine off,then leave it overnight unplugged.reconnect,then crank it for a few seconds to remove surface charge.unplug and test voltage again.anything under 10v your battery isnt holding its charge

yep,need one that will test to about 100 amp ---------- Post added at 09:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:56 PM ---------- Out of curiousity,how old is that new battery?

wont try to test a car alternator with a small voltmeter/ampmeter,most only test 10 amp MAX for few seconds.Car ones have way more ampage and you'll blow it. check what amps the reader can test to. ---------- Post added at 09:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:51 PM ---------- brushes are ok then

x1 as above-0.8mm is very low on the brushes,you need new ones

unfortunately volts check doesnt confirm how many amps the alternater is putting out.You need a ampmeter for that. 14v sounds a little high,maybe just because the battery is flat but dont rule out the voltage regulater

dizzy timing is out,needs to be set dynamicaly. Dosent matter where the rotor arm is pointed,if the intermediate shaft is out but its not a problem. undo the bolt that holds the dizzy in place enough so you can just about move it slowly,and move dizzy SLOWLY til you find the sweet spot.You may find your 180 degrees out! also have you checked leads are correct way around?

check the small wire attached to the alternater,think its a 8mm or 10mm nut as this is a important wire as it supplys 12v to the exciter coil in the alternater. without it you wont get a proper charge or no charge. if the brushes are nearly worn out then you'll find the lights will all flicker constantly and flicker faster with engine revs ---------- Post added at 09:24 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:15 PM ---------- sorry had a brain fart-brushed motors dont have exciter coils!! :roll: The small wire puts the battery light out on the dash when charging. Other than worn brushes/slip rings and corroded/loose cables there isnt any reason it shouldnt charge.I would suspect one of the items you've fitted is draining the baterry,prob imobilizer

finally after one last bit of though as i was about to give up,spliced in two wires and i heard the sound i wanted to hear-the TB buzzing its high pitched tone. Pluged in VCDS and on channel 60 perform a TBA and 8 clicks of the tb later.... after starting it-it gave a almighty roar when i pressed the pedal. I now have the OEM management for the 20v,including DBW pedal working!!! Oh yes!! ill start putting exhaust on and all the other stuff now it working! I feel better now,as i was close to given up all hope

check the red/black wire to the coil for volts with a multimeter.its switched live and cranking live.you should get battery voltage Then check green wire from the coil(take it off) and check for continuity from there to the plug on the ecu(cant remember which pin).it should be 0.2 ohms or around that if good,start looking at a problem with the hall sender on the dizzy or wiring