dannyboy

are you using a 6 speed mk4-5 box or have you had 02a box conversion to 6 speed?

This was three days after buying my current raddo-

Try posting in drivetrain fellow

Spot on man!! We've got creatures similar to ferrets over here that love to chew on cables.Lots of people over here had their cars destroyed by their chewing on cables and hoses. Google Marders.It may come up with german tank,obiviously dont bother with that.its a type of stout or ferret. EVIL LITTLE F"£K£&s!!!!!

very much doubt head loom would cause that unless the weld is broken inside the harness.and they hefty wires too.The fan has its own fuse 30 amp. I spent this morning looking over the wiring diagram for you and its not really complicated. The thermoswitch on the cylinder head has a control unit that does excatly the same as the thermoswitch on the radiator so it points out to that you have a supply problem rather than a sensor problem.Funny enough the connector on the Fusebox is on the same one as the headlight one as you said . Its A1 (yellow,theres two!) pin 5 and wire is 2.5mm red. check for loose wires or connector.I think the headlight loom can still work with one of the connectors disconnected!

gaz ive never really heard of a exhaust pressure tester outside R+D purposes but ill prob shot down in a minute. You could prob make one up using air pressure line with cap on either end,one with a connector on and some washing-up liquid in water to test for leaks. Not really sience,but it will show leaks.obviously with the downpipe off the car

excatly why i used mk3 one and banjo bolts are are pain in the a$$ in general. if you look at the last post on page two youll see the pump fitted ---------- Post added at 08:10 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:07 PM ---------- are you using DBW,e-pedal etc like i am? or you going aftermrket?

it says replace the switch on the rad! Have you got a multimeter? turn it to volts and test the pins on the harness of the rad switch you should get 12 volts ---------- Post added at 07:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:54 PM ---------- with ignition on.

thats an over-run switch for the fan when the engine bay is too hot.If you touch that single connector to ground the fan should come on! ---------- Post added at 07:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:29 PM ---------- sorry i meant disconnect the wire and touch the wire on the engine and the fan should come on

alex i just went on sight because theres only two types of offset i believe and guess what,the g60 is wrong offset.I got mine off a mk3 passat in breakers as it had the front of the car already off so easy to do.Im pretty sure most mk3 golfs,passat etc have near enough the excat same pump-except for VR6. Ill find you the part number on the pump as ive already mounted mine and its OEM fit.One thing to note is that you need a mk4 pulley which bolts straight to the pump otherwise its easy.Ill find it for you later tomorrow as im off to the CCG meet all saturday

alex have you checked the fan switch in the radiator?its what turns the fan on.Number 9 on the diagram.has three pins for two stage fan.

Small update from yesterday.Head removed skimmed,pressure tested and new HG put on.They were very quick had it done in an hour and half! I really liked the air tools with the torque adjustable display which tells you how much NM your torquing to! cost 226 euro Obviously they had a look at the bore and said its ok.Bought second hand K04-20 and my buddy sourced me a pair of second hand cams with very little wear on them and new set of hydralic lifters.cost 289 euro Now i can finally start moving again!!! also spoke to my insurance company allianz,they arent charging me extra for the engine upgrade even though i told they its 225 ps engine -Result!!!!!! :lol:

the only problem is people seem to think the higher the octane number the better the fuel from cheaper outlets.far from the truth.octane only denotes the knock resistance. The fuel is still the same crap tescos or sainsbury's have on sale just with extra additives like ethanol(alco).basiclly it artifically raises the octane number but same amount of sulphur and other crap in cheaper fuels.So your fuel mileage maybe better with normal stuff because it dosent contain lower calorific value additives Stuff like V-power is refined at the higher octane level rather than artifically raising it.Removing most of the crap and sulphur takes longer to refine hence the reason why its more expensive.Really,You get what you pay for. only problem is that higher octane fuels work really well for modern cars.Lets face it the injection systems in these cars are well old and managment systems that are very basic.Yes they work well when in parameters,but they are limited and crude type of injection. ---------- Post added at 08:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:37 PM ---------- Quality :lol:

excatly.Dont really like the word 'coolant' for EG because it confuses people thinking their engine is going to melt if there no EG in with the water. If it is the heater martix youd smell the coolant as it has a sweetish smell when you turn fan on. Otherwise check the damp-proofing plastic on the back of the door cards,if they are torn or missing it leads to alot of damp and condenstion

Depends on the ECU,different countries ran different maps to counter lower octane fuel.But thats if its a standard map which 99% of g60s arent. 91 is the minimum (no longer sold in europe now) 95 is reduced power 98 gives you full power. anything over 98 is pretty much wasted. pay for higher octane fuel and still run like its on 98.unless of course your car has been mapped to run the higher octane small expections are stuff like E10 we have over here which basicly 10% alcohol,90% petrol.Ive tested every type of petrol over here to see how it run in all types of weather My G60 loves E10 stuff,runs like its on 98 but you have to be careful as the high alcohol content can eat through older rubber hoses!

My G60 gets better MPG during summer with V-power or BP Ultimate 102 only when its very hot.during the colder weather i run it on normal 95 because i swear that higher octane fuel cools engine more. Im sure G60s are supposed to run hot anyway and they dont really advance the timing as much as newer engined cars so you wont really get full use of higher octane fuel. Unless your G60 is mapped to run higher octane and more igintion advance then you wont really see a benefit

Big thanks to EMU sorted with coolant hoses.got them on friday after the little delay but very happy with the seller. Only critisism is one of the hoses has a bodge job repair using electrical tape but otherwise rest are good,Thanks

Where you get them alex?ive been looking for ones like that.Mine are the old original ones that starting to look tatty.

Is there fuel in the tank?Dont just trust the guage is the fuel beening pressurised though?failing fuel pump,clogged filter or fuel pump relay.try later ones first before looking at the pump. Is it misfiring or just got compelete lack of power?Smell the exhaust,if you smell fuel you timing is off or worse the dreaded crank pulley bolt.

autometer ones are round £20 in halfords...just dont go overboard once in there!

same as supercharged-change the whole starter,ten times easier and also cost effective.

that is shocking,even GSF is better than that.at least the parts work....for a short while.

bjorn,im coming down on the saturday for a day only so ill be a day visiter.myself and the wife. Do we still have to fill out registrtion form? says we dont have to but want to confirm

address yes pls...... but if you read the add ...it was again somthing extra not inc in the sale ..... here is the add.... g box is a ctn deisel box 2wd ,,,great ratios for 20vt power vr6 uprated clutch and g60 flywheel..all brand new q peng down pipe and connector brand new perfect std loom decoded apx 20vt ecu ( by jbs) std g60 rad,, cables for gbox generic intercooler .. engine mounts.. this set up would be perfect for any application and is the best std 20vt eng set up to have ...these things are still commanding top money on ebay and as i am sure you well know are getting hard to get hold of.. most good complete set ups are 1600 quid with out any of the extras i am including as far as the bad seller thing goes the damage is done already.....!!!!!!! dale Well dale its your own fault that the damage is done,good seller maintains contact til the deal is complete.One email could have sorted all this.You only made an effort once your name was at stake.also dont try worm your way out of it by blaming the buyer...or it'll come back to bite you(your words!!) Ok dale,you want to talk about the extras you gave me.i'll talk about the stuff you should have given first. 1)The gearbox wasnt a CTN as advertised but the cheaper ASD box.I know,i already have one. 2)Where is the standard G60 radiator? 3)Where is the generic intercooler? 4)Where is the cables for the gearbox? I haven't recieved any of them so where are they????? Next thing,the engine you sold me. 1)the FPR is damaged and the fuel rail inlet was bent+cracked-I need new one 2)Engine had an oil leak at the Head gasket on the rear.Brought it to an audi professenial engine specialist to get the engine checked over.So far theyve told me- -head gasket is leaking -Turbo bearings are right on the limit of wear-need recon one -The camlobes are telling them that its ethier been ragged within inch of its life or the 44k mile you said-they said had is more like 80k+ mile.If you knew it or not i dont care. Ok so the extras that YOU included which were two secondhand plastic diverter valves,one a chinese copy.and PAS belt.The maf would have been nice over a month ago. And the TDI e-pedal that i offered to pay for can be bought for 20 euro here anyway. So the extras you have given me are nowhere near the 789 euro bill i need to sort engine out.Plus the extra money lost out in parts you havent supplied.You feel hard done by? Think again buddy.....

x2 for ABS master cylinder, engine Fuel hoses 037133990Q, 037133988M AND rain tray plastic trims