mattnorgrove

:clap: :grin: :notworthy: :luvlove:

I thought the cam position sensor/ engine speed sensor both show when engine not running?

I'd guess at a dodgy Lambda.

If there's no smell, then it sounds more like steam to me. Hope for your sake it's not a problem with the new matrix else you've got the whole lot to do again. :( Is it coming from a particular vent or all of them? If its all of them it certainly sounds like the matrix, but would your windscreen not have misted up? Good luck!

Dunno what causes this, but the same thing happened on mine last year, I leant on the button with my arm when the window was down, and it caused the same thing. It's never happened since though.

To me it felt like my old valver was VW's practice attempt, but my VR is their masterpiece. Worlds apart in so many ways, makes it hard to believe they're the same model. Having said that my valver was a bit of an old dog, but my VR is a pampered peach. Do it, you will definitely not regret it.

Thanks for the reply David, I can see what you mean now I've put the calipers/carriers together. Need to find some kind of cylinder polishing tool I reckon, and smooth off the inside of the cylinder the pin slides into (and smooth the pins too). :( Thanks again...

Anyone? :(

I'm in the process of rebuilding a set of 288's, had them sandblasted last week, and have painted them up. The guy who did the shotblasting told me they'd been through a parrafin bath afterwards, so all's ready to rebuild, or so i thought. Tried to refit the slider pins/boots after cleaning them up and greasing the pins (used a regular grease for this). The longer two pins seemed really reluctant to go back in, felt like it was just too big for the hole. :grin: The shorter pins with the rubber end sleeve type thing go in fine. So the thought struck me (too late I fear), that the slider pin hole may still have some grit from the blasting in it (dont think those holes were masked off) :| so ive given the holes a good blast out with Gunk Ultra to shift the grease i'd put in, and took them to be blasted out with air. Had a good look with a penlight after i'd blasted them out, and the inside of the hole for the slider pin looks rough to me, and the pin itself (was unmarked before trying to refit) now has scoring marks on it. Have greased it up again and refitted following the air blasting but the pin seems really sticky/stiff but does move with a little persuasion. So a few question's: Have i fooked the carriers/pins, and just how smooth must the sliding action have to be? (if anyone could explain the sliding motion too, and what purpose it serves would also be grateful, i'm a complete noob when it comes to brakes) :( Why are the pins different lengths, and which should go in which hole? Please help guys!! :(

Good luck with the R32 project Shaun, hope it turns out as sweet as the Corrado is. Hope you stick around on here so we can see the AWD project take shape. Andy, nice purchase!!! One of my favourite Corrado's, has to be one of the best on the planet.

Quality replacement parts sold in this thread mate.... viewtopic.php?f=15&t=16145&hilit=doorhandle+repair

So my recently acquired 288mm front set up went to be shot blasted earlier this week, got them back yesterday. Also received this week, my DG Autotech conversion hoses (brilliant quality items), along with laser cut spacers (these need 6mm spacing same as the 312mm setups) and longer carrier bolts/washers etc. Have sourced new O-Rings and dust seals for the pistons for a tenner a side from VW, so these are now in brand new condition, looking forward to fitting them once i've painted the calipers. Am thinking of either black or silver smooth Hammerite, question is, will i need to prime/undercoat etc, or can i just whop the Hammerite on them? What do you think chaps?

Thought it sounded familiar KIP, glad it's sorted cheaply!! :D

:norty: WAHEEY!! :lol:

Definitely sounds like the left/right mech on top of the box KIP. When mine came loose, 1st gear was where reverse normally is, 3rd where 1st normally is etc. Did you get someone to move the stick left and right while you had a butchers under the bonnet??

Oh yeah!! Forgot the circlip!! KIP, pretty sure there's a picture on here, have a search for gearstick circlip. It's on the left hand side of the shifter mech.

Sounds like what happened to mine mate, turned out the linkage on top of the box had worked it's way loose. Worth checking there. Get someone to move the gearstick left/right while you have a look. It was impossible to miss what had happened on mine, and sorted in seconds with a socket set. HTH.

^^^^what he said!! :lol:

Yeah the "crossover" is part of the tweeter assembly in the dash housings, i think its just some kind of resistor though, pretty basic.

Could anyone find out the part numbers for these please? Looking for all the headlamp screws (including the recessed on inside the slam panel) and all fixings along the top edge of the slam itself. Want to change all mine out, as they've seen better days (i.e. rusted to fook). Alternatively, does anyone know what type screws they all are, and would I be able to get stainless replacements? Thanks in advance guys.

Depends on rim width though - on a 7.5J rim the 195 40 17 radius is closer to the standard 205 50 15... :dorky: :lol:

The profile is a percentage of the tyre width mate, so does make a difference to rolling radius. Compare the two together, the difference is obvious. Have a look here to compare... http://www.tyresave.co.uk/tyresize.html

The Bay of Biscay. A beautiful part of the world.

You'll need 205/40/17 to keep the rolling radius as close to standard as possible. 195/40/17's will give a smaller rolling radius, and cause your speedo/odometer to read incorrectly.

I would strip the lot out, steam clean and refit. If it's such an amount to leave a film on the screen of your phone, and for you to taste it on your lips?! Jeez that mustve been some matrix failure!! :shock: