GazzaG60

show me a graph of a 300whp G60 then

thers a company caled racehardware i believe that does this type of thing. cant remember the nmuber but i got passed the contact from h100 VW

no direct fit wire-up sensor as the G60 doesn't use wideband signals in the ECU. also wideband voltages are different so a recalibrate would be necessary, if possible. you can buy a standalone wideband. i use a LC-1 and have used a LM-1 for tuning "customer" cars with a friend. both good kit. in order for an ECU to understand wideband you would have to get an aftermarket ecu for the G60 with wideband support such as Megasquirt but in all honesy digi 1 is good for 300+ which is more than the G60 will put out in its wildest dreams.

in general its about the combustion chamber. in an 8v its in the block hence the dished piston. on a valve its in the head. i think the 1.8t is also a 236mm block apposed to a 220mm of the G60 etc. it would need a piston change. not worth the hassle as you are down grading the engine to match the ever so poor G60 head. also the pullies etc wont match up. get a small turbo conversion for the G60 engine and port the head with a G60 cam. if you are worried about the charger but they aren't as frigile as there reputation states

id be interested to read what you know about cams and stuff. still a relative beginner to cams. also what you found about the 6a. i got a full 6a too. the ignition system is of interest and so is the head and cams. i got the full underbonnet of a 6a from my mates 80 sport

cannot see why you would get an issue unless you upset the earth or weakened the signal wire or broke a heater wire on the ever so frigile plug harness. the af gauge i used was from summit racing via gavin but bilal seels them here too i believe. if nothing else the installation helps you learn about the ecu's o2 circuit. you may find you need a few new bits or some rewiring when you tap in the wire. no point using a secondary lambda as it doesn't tell you what the ecu is being told which is the whole point. the installation of this wont stop you blowing up or help you decipher top end fueling only stoich. itll tell you if the circuit is working, if the probe is if the idle/wot switches are too.

you must earn good money though to match. all economic balance

its the lavinder/purple wire coming form the engine side of the o2 harness. check all others while you are there. quick wank test will snap the week

the cossie lump along with the rwd box is not a bad combo indeed. for a long time peeps have been geting 350hp + even with poor management and old spec turbos boosting hell out of um. if it was easy to get a t5 box in i would have done this instead of a 16vt

turn the 15odd horses into 300 horses for your 3k couldn't get 300 donkeys for that money so gotta be a good deal.

cheers hows about the valve mods that you talked of and the lightweight buckets. i know a few grams can make all the difference.

has to be removed to be polished. do you not have to take the crank out of a 8v to get to the end shells properly?

i mean .25 and .50 oversize deffo rod bolts as they will be stretched

check the crank for damage. if its clean get standard shells. if not get it polished or ground and fit oversize. IIRC ECP sell 25.50 oversize shells.

Darren- any more on the above if you do please. also anybody done this already and if so what cams do you use. im expecting to have to dial out some overlap for FI but would like opinions on solid v hydro and cam choices for solids.

cheers mate. now the festivities are out of the way ill pop down n see you soon. ill gove you a call later still thinking about this one as i will need to put extra money into the bottom end if i go for a 9krpm limit.

hi all im still building this valve. ill update my post soon but xmas has slowed progress a little. pistons are now fitted with rings and ready to fit but i await some HD rod boltd....anyway I am after sourcing a solid lifter kit for a 16v head. i believe that schrick made one that uses a bucket similar to the hydro one but with a small shim inside anybody know of a source and at a mega bonus the cost and telephone number cheers all Gaz

no point messing with s2 pistons when you can get JE customs for around 300 quid a set. i could only base my block choice on what ive been told and rod ratio. im using a 9a so im same as you too aposegil. the abf for its benefit in ratio wasn't justifiable in cash. i paid 30 quid for my 9a and nothing for my 6a hence reason im going 9a megasquirt with the MSNS code is my weapon of choice. its cheap. i am yet to do the mods to the board for spark and the wideband connection but i will document it when i do.

it should clear the bonnet. i got a bit more chopping to do but im on a late bonnet which im told is almost necessary for a short runner. Im gonna run a subaru TB i think. thanks to the subaru guys for supplying again.

engine wise over here you have 3 choices really kr 9a ABF best is the ABF. 9a is good, im using one but the ABF is better due to its rod ratio. a good set of pistons is needed for ABF though as they aint as good as 9a ones. JE or wiseco as i got work well with boost. for reference the ABF is the ABA the yanks go on about in 16v form. the ABA is an 8v.

ive seen a car round here a lot like yours. im on the oldham/rochdale side of town. mine is a jplate blue G60 with BBS RCs and its pretty noisy.

ill have a go. been in IT for nearly 10 yrs and still cant sort images out.

post updated. some details added, pics next week when i start the build.

im trying to kev but im lazy and delivery times from the states can vary. Ill sort the pictures on friday of my turbo, fuel system block changes and methods (if its back). ill put my turbo next to a subaru one for comparison ill talk about the sump and making a 16v breath properly and not blow oil everywhere on high boost. im gonna try and cover what i can and hope it helps people. what i dont want to do is mis-inform people which is why ive not jumped forward too much. its no fun without pictures too. it all goes back to what you want too i think. some only want a bolt on kit to upgrade, which is not too easy on the 16v others want a full fire breathing setup. the one thing that puts me off it k-jet. point taken on the 20v though. it can be easier and produce lots of power

9a is a good engine to start with. its got strong standard internals good for 300-350hp with proper tuning. may not last for ever but will do it. a set of pistons is a good call. kev you make it sound harder than it is mate but like you said you had yours in their earlier years. turbo technology and tuning have gone a long way since then mainly thanks to the americans willing to stretch an old platform. as for the turbo i gone with a precision sc61 which is basically a t3/t04e with a gt40 air side wheel and a t350 exhaust side. management wise ive got megasquirt that costs around 250. not set up yet and my post is still not updated cos im lazy. ill try to not be so idle and update my project post may wait for the block back first from the machine shop so i dont have to post as many times.