GazzaG60

from what i can gather there are 2 types hubcentric and universal the universal ones are a flat plat with many holes in to fit most vehicle types the hubcentric are for that type of car and basically extent the hub meaning centre is replicated so mounting wheel is easy. universals go upto around 10mm. i use 5mm woith no problems id have to say over that id get proper ones but they can extend into a fair few quid like 60 or so.

bigger is always better. id ask questions myself of a 2.9 V6 with mods didn't beet a counterflow, 8v 1.8 FI or no FI Glader never been that good i dont think for out n out power. it doesn't flow enough at a reliable level. no point spending all that on a VR either. buy a scooby and spend 60 quid on a bleed valve and beat the VR and G60 on straights and corners, more like leave the VR for dead after all this is a thread about speed.

not sure what answer you are loking for but.. there are a few things that can boost octane levels. the advantages are that you can throw in some more timing which invariably makes more power than boost but brings on det as the fuel explodes to soon. unless your car is mapped for 110 ron or whatever then it aint gonna take much advantage of it. unless its already detting

yay a optimized red top chip. more power less fuel. have to say the chips have got better as the go along testement to SNS development and know how. after all bilal aint seen the car hes just going off what ive said. my personal opinion is that the older chips may be better with a 3bar reg. i havent tried it yet so.. there may be issues on boost at part throttle with the 3 bar though. Bilal was saying the fuel pump strength may be a factor. Gman-i aint got a graph as im lazy. i was gonna get it done but im lazy. ive had the wideband up it so i know it aint lean if anything its too rich which aint good either. i get some smoke sometimes and plugs get sooted up. my charger is loosing a fraction of boost which im deffo addressing this month. even so at around 2-3krpm WOT(10psi) i get a smoke until around 5k(14psi+) when itclears. the wideband shows rich(10:1) at 2-4krpm going to 11-11.5 higher in the revs.

id get some red tops in with the 65mm. wait for bilal to make the new chip that he's donig at the moment. mine is a tad rich still but will hopefully be addressed by bilals tuning. get the reds to cover your ass as you never know how good the old greens are.

no your right you dont get a true reading you get a picture of vague engine working at stoich. from what i can gather from various sources inc SNS USA probly the people responsible for the amount of summit-racing AF gauges in G60s the AF gauge is good for telling u the following (not quotes) 1. proper lamba probe functioning 2. warmup status 3. WOT/idle swithc issues to tell what is really happening you need a wideband as a O2 probe is onyl accurate at stoich, what its designed for. to see whats-what at the ranges a wideband is needed. im thinking of fitting one too as the probe is same fitment, ill get a second nut welded on and fit it in there. i use a mates wideband to set up. its amazing the differences in ration that cover one bar on a AF gauges especially at WOT You might see 10,11 and 12 to1 on the wideband but itll have hit and held on the AF gauge. my planis not the hijack the thread use current summit AF for seeing the actual probe that the engine uses fit a second NGK wideband probe(NGK does 8:1, bosch does 10:1 lowest) and fit a LM-1 (i think) from innovativeproducts.com to view ration info and graph for chip adjustments

A g60 isn't ever gonna make good HP figures. 1. it doesn't rev enough and stillk make power(poor 8v head) 2. its got a Glader on it that wont wanna rev past 6krpm with a decent size pulley. Good low down torque can be got from a small pulley. itll get the charger pumping sooner. im runnig a 65mm that does the trick. i cant rev past 6k but the engine in standard form drops off at around 5500 anyway. problems that you get from this type of mod. 1. traction-low down torque gives wheelspin. 2. belt slip. mine aint too bad but if you wanna get rid of it go for the toothed pulley like henny has.

but why? you wanna know what the engines doing not what a different sensor is telling you..unless its wideband of course. You dont want one sensor telling you its fine if the proper engine one isn't. its the proper one that the readings are used from.

turn the car off does it try n disconnect the battery. like henny says therres no reset switch,wiring tis just a power thing

ive seen that car before. it was at the GTi show in france in PVW a year or so ago IIRC

the bounce should subdue as they wear in if they are new. usuall if the front id too hard they may bounce. AS for the backs. I use a 5mm spacer with my 7.5x17" wheels so that the spring mount will clear the wheel otherwise it catches.

reliability is the key as always personally i think the charger is the weak bit as it is having to do a crap load of boost to produce the power the jd did(or lots of timing when its cold and run it then.) Without going into the engine first and changing stuff you wont be able to generate power without boost G60 block is quite easily strong enough for 300hp. TT stuff aint that much different. blown engines are usually down to bad management and poor cooling. or letting off from high speed and melting it you can t expect the std G60 intercooler to suffice for much if any over 200hp. small turbos,good flow and chamber design and higher comression gives the 225 the torque. same as the imprezas were a TD05 impreza is poor on the torque but can make the horses(itll hold for longer) the early engine has lower compression too a la G60 the later TD04 equiped impreza will onle make around 290hp on the standard turbo but out of the box response and torque is down to the higher compression and smaler turbine.

different suspension geometry results in the handling differences as much as the weight. although weight in front of the front wheels does make a difference. 50kg may not seem a lot but its the same as a tank of fuel versus nearly empty. you can feel it ever so slightly. both are good. personally i dont see the corrado as a out n out fast car cos it aint. its more a good quick cruiser. if you are after some class, nicelevels of comfort and a nice engine a c is a good car. if you want pace in a point to point fashion go for a scooby or something like it. not got german build quality though(or panel costs) yes i know some people have raced um and won but point to point 9/10 will be a jap victory esp if twisties are involved. and 300 hp is easily available with a full system, filter and a bar of boost via a bleed valve if you wanna be cheap.( equates to around £500 fro 80hp)

use a lighter car. corrado is shite for dragging. you want lighter car with top end power to get rid of the wheelspin. All wheel or rear would help too. a VR clutch is upto quite a lot. drops into the G60 box. G60 aint a good drag engine either. too short on engine revs. you gotta change too often.

Anyone going to the manx rally? i think ill be going over this year. i know its the same weekend as inters but quite a few of the scooby lads are gonna go over so may have a look at that instead. may even take the corrado with me.

that mythical "the VR is the greatest" statement again :sleeping:

get a AF gauge if you havent got one. sounds like the o2 probe may be tired. also the blue temp switch may not be giving the correct signal to tell the engine to drop enrichment. A stretched/sticky throllte cable can also cause problems with the idle. The sensor on the boost tube is the CO_Pot. it measures inlet temperature and corrects fueling to the set values. the CO_pot has a default setting of around 450-500ohm. set it to this. To do this connect a multimeter to the 2 outer pins on the sensor. the middle is for temp. take it off the tube first its easier then. replace the hose from the throttle body to the ECU. it must be 1m long. get it from the dealer so the materials are the same as factory spec. its the cloth covered tube.

itllhelp thats for sure but its intended uses id to cool heavily charged air not heatsoaked stuff. a proper cooler will give a denser charger to start with. removing the boost return will also help. ive not noticed anywhere near as much performance degredation since i removed it. a bigger cooler just takes longer to soak. i got both bigger front mounted cooler and no boost return and the degredation is now next to nothing.

i expect the std VR brakes are v similar to G60. Id say the G60 ones only just pass when your on them lots. they work but not that good. A few of my mates use AP 6 pots with 315 and 335mm disks on their imprezas and they really work. we got more clearence problems than them though.

bbs RCs are pretty light. with my old 17" on it felt slower and less responsive on the turn than with the 15" with the RC itt feels much the same as with the 15" bbs standard rims except its more stable and better gripping with the RC due to the tyre wall/more surface area combo as state above

how about the rover 216/volvo 4 pot combo that the mk 1s used to run. isn't the brembo issue down to us having vented hubs while the seat doesn't. and thoughts on using a seat hub or isn't this a option? i ask this as a question not putting it as a statement.

im using a Awia mp3 player. had it for nearly 4 years was one of the first along with JVC. never had a problem with it. My mate has a clarion MP3 player in his legacy. sound is very good as is function. tis one of the higher end units at around £370

pitstop/Gwerks may be able to confirm this it basically balances up the idle for a given temp. i suppose it depends on how much your idle screw is in or out. then it applies the relevent bleed amount to match that for a given temp and idle speed..

i wouldn't be too bothered about a valve thats been thrashed. it keeps the engine free. valves go real flat if you dont rev um. my G60 has had 5 owners too. i got leather but not heated. its fine in winter, sweaty in summer 12 month spans of ownership are common. thats when the repair bills come in as somebody previosly said Corrados are not cheap to run or maintain. its the age of the beast really. people used to say "theres a story behind every cossie" and the same is true of the corrado

ive run both 6dpo and 4dpo. at the time ECP swore the 4dpo was the standard plug. i used them on my standard G60 for a year or 2. no problems. im on 6dpo now again. not seen any difference between the 2. you could always gap some coppers up. Sam from SNS in the states uses copper ones with no problems.