GazzaG60

rod bearings

on partial the lights will go up and down between probly just over half and nearly none. this is the ECU correcting the fueling to attain stoich-14.5:1 fueling. this is done on partial and idle to maintain good consumption and emmissions. it also keeps the engine clean by running lean, burning off the crud n that. when you put yer foot down on the SNS chip it goes straight to a map as digi lag is no more(cheers SNS) non SNS show a fluttering for a second or 2 before finding a map. im told SNS chips hit a map around 4psi regardless of throttle position. this is shown on the gauge as 1 bar rich or so. this is because the o2 probe is outside its most accurate zone of stoich. while it may stay on the same light the actual operation may vary from rich to lean in that area and this isn't displayed on the gauge. What i used to find before as i havent done 100 on the sns yet is that the range at 100 is v small. it may flick 1,2 or 3 bars from the bottom which may look lean but it aint. its good fuel consumption time. this small change(i may not be right on this )from what ive seen is usually a indication that you are about to hit a map. it seems to be runnig ok from what you say just rich in boost(black smoke). get it on the rollers and let the tweak with the fueling and timing n you'll see a much better consumption i reckon. im at that stage too but with the red top injectors and 65mm pulley.

the o2 sensor is fitted in the exhaust just before the CAT if you still have it. it connects to the engine harness at the engine mount below the clutch master on a right hand drive car, not sure whats there on a left hooker but sensor is in right place. most of the oesive seen have been 4 wire at the plug. the probe is 3 wire and the 4th is a earth that goes to the engine mount bracket. as said above. get a AF gauge and more peeps will be able to help you. speak to bilal. the gauge that most G60 peeps here and the US use are the summit racing type that bilal has

o2 sensor is v important to the system to maintain some fuel consumption and to keep the engine clean. AF gauge will show you the o2 sensor is sending siignals for the ECU to correct for partial throttle driving. it will also show rich or leaning out points to a degree. this is shown as a cycle of the lights from rich to lean. the o2 sensor is miles more accurate at providing stoich readings but thewideband is far better for the extremes. basically when you go full throttle (WOT) then the o2 sensor isn't used. its signals are ignored from that point and the map is used. make sure they aren't sticking. Get a AF gauge and make sure that the systems are working(o2, idle switch,WOT switch) test idle/wot with a multimeter for continuity. as chris says the wideband provides quicker more accurate displays of what going on at the extremes. id bet you are running around 10:1 aF ratio with the black smoke thing. it should be around the 12.5:1 mark. get it set up on the rollers and you will see a big improvement if you haven't got wideband setup that you can get hold of. im lucky on that one.

i see you are running SNS. have you had it set up? it may be running v v rich. im running SNS too.mine was way too rich at 450 or 500ohm. i also spoke to a couple of other peeps and they had the same issues. im getting there with my setup now and its set at 800ohm and still a little rich. you aren't using the MFA are you though? it wont be accurate anymore. iof you are doing the miles to gallons/litres conversion using the maths then it is v poor. if you can gewt your hands on a wideband, shove it up and go for a drive n see whatswhat. check the plugs-give um a clean and go drive it and check them straight after the drive not when its cooled. does it smoke?black? what does your AF gauge show you. as ive leaned it out mine has took a moor normal operation path. ie at 500ohm it would only cycle at idle any more that that it would go rich. at 600ohm i got slight cycle and now at 800 i get almost normal operation i was getting around 50 mils to 20 quid before the recent changes of a o2 sensor and leaning out. thats probly doubled/trebled now. if you cant get hold of much of the kit i mentioned, speak to bilal. he can supply AF gauge etc. got to a rolling rd and get them to set it up and graph the air/fuel. thats my next step now

turbos provide more airflow that a supercharger at any given level of pressure(boost) a 10psi turbo will outdo a G60 in all but the smallest turbo's. Turbo has some benifits. for example a turbo is less prone to destruction in most cases than our G60 so more power can be extracted. problem is our engine doesn't particulary lend to a turbo. with the head being counterflow the turbo sits a tad below the inlet manifold and close to the firewall. this causes heat and clearance issues. downpipe/manifold problems are a biggy too. the Glader does provide a more seamless power delivery with more lowdown torque but this can be counter productvie once the boost is upped on a glader-wheelspin. id have to say im thinking about it. the Glader is good but i too am a tad sceptical about its reliability on the 65mm im on. does sound like its screaming at 70 now. the other thing is lag. dont happen with a glader but does with a turbo. my feeling on this is that you only see the lag for one gear or a cog down. once your in boost your there and stay there so that wouldn't be a problem for me.

i got 7.5x17 RCs too they fit ok. catch on the inside of the wheel well on the fronts. 5mmm spacer will probly solve this. i use a 5mm spacer on the back to clear the coilover.

the ones with no cooler have same length rod. i had to replace my filter housing and used one off my old 1.8 ex engine which is a carb engine. it uses no cooler just filter to housing. although looks like etka states different.

the blue temps sensor is about a fiver i thoought. tis a similar one to all catalyst vw car switches im told. try VW again

agree on the caps lock. he like me has changed the vac hose. ill check mine again though.

the car doesn't have to have a cat at any age, it just has to pass emissions. not many cars will pass if not fitted with a cat after 92. some will. when you get even newer it becomes near on impossible. if its a visual check then you may fail but we dont have um over here. believe the new test is staged where if you fail the initial test it goes into a more lengthy rigorous one.

get the glass from ECP if thats all thats wrong-bout 25 quid

mot get a tad iffy with no cat. basically you need to be under 3%. which is quite some lee-way over standard. it will go richer without the cat. if it fails, trim the fueling on the CO-pot at the station before you go on as you cant adjust during the ticket. as long as your O2 system is working properly you should be ok though.

im having similar prooblems with my new setup. i can feed in 10 psi in 3rd+. first gear is a bit of a nightmare. i got new sparking kit and vac lines n that. im awaiting o2 but this doesn't effect full throttle. i think mine is running too rich. but not sure if this can cause the missing. im gonna try narrowing the gap on the plugs. maybe buy some pound a piece plugs so i dont have to alter the gap on the 6wdpo plugs. what do you see on your AF gauge. really you need a wideband so that you can get a accurate full throttle fueling reading.

in a word yes but no pain no gain. feels so much better already. the std G60 had started to feel sluggish unless i was doing like 4700rpm or above. when i get home the new leads n shiz are going on n see if that improves things.

when chipping you need to do it properly. dont expect results first time as the chip is generic unless you have your car mapped. dont buy a chip thats for a general G60 as id say its a con. it need to be more specific. im still having issues with my setup. im on a SNS but at this stage cant blame a chip. when you upgrade it amplifies the problems that were underlying before. ive made a biggish jump from standard to a frontmount, red tops, FPR 65mm and SNS to match. my problems which were quite less apparent are right in my face now. i think i got weak spark and deffo a bad o2 system. i have problems in first where it misses as i set off and at approx 1 bar boost plus. i know its rich but its better that way for now than melting a piston. speak to bilal. i know this chip is good or a variant of it will be.

belt goes round crank and water up to charger under tensioner upto alt round other tensioer back to crank. replace the small belt on the charger if the other has broken. this is the most important belt. costs a tenner and saves a grand. best is to replace both belts at same time so that condition can be judged off the other. this is rough though n better to be safe than sorry. get a wide charger belt from pitstop and a normal one too.

when does the buzzer sound? if its on idle its the 0.4bar switch on the side of the head. if its at 2100rpm then its the 2 bar switch. drive it slowly upto 2100rpm n see if it sounds. do this a few times to confirm the test. if the test ios inconclusive then get a oil pressure gauge.

ah newcastle is within travelling distance for mapping too.

i found them mean on discs. to much heat retention but i believe they have gone some way to addressing this. still i wouldn't risk it again. they were the best ive tried for dust though as said above its all personal preference

i got a big frontmount, u-bend etc. fitted my SNS chip, pulley, red-tops, FPR at weekend along with the waterpump(not a nice job). im on a 65mm and its making good boost. not sure what as i cant put it all in yet(couple of issue to iron out) but i expect my peak boost to be around 17psi

take some pictures. least you can see what was what before hand then. not too bad a job. tip of the day for the tensioner on the charger belt. get 2 big jubilee clips, around 76mm each and join them together. use these to compress the tensioner. we put it in a vice after to compress it down the put the clips back on for refit.

depends what yuo wanna spend and what mapping kit and abilities you have. if you got wideband and knowledge of mapping then id expect you can stretch beyond digi. probly only of benifit if you have big mods though or a turbo setup. Sam and bilal know their shit. dont think they would do a chip if they knew it was no good for the engine, they would say use stand alone all the way. Ask me next week. with a bit of luck(gotta have luck with a VW) then ill have my stg 5 SNS, red tops n 65mm pulley in and should be moving a tad faster than now. As soon as its fitted and assuming it runs ok ill stick the wideband up it and see whats what. my mate has a SNS chip and his car goes well. it was runnig way too rich but i assume he didn't follow the procedure of getting AF and a re-cut chip. he's having a custom map done today i think, not SNS so ill get the comparison from another angle. ive seen a jabbachip, ive seen a SNS chip(soon to have one too :D ) and then ill see a custom map not SNS. the ideal would be to run all 3 one after another on rollers for proof of pudding but i cant see that happening.

buy a buffer. a proper one is around 120 i think and they are variable speed. buy a few pads. the decent ones are spongy type stuff. Use a G3 or even Tcut and it brings it up a treat. my mate has one and has just done his car. it got covered in over-spray from the air where it had been parked. it took around 4 applications of t-cut metallic or 1 use with a buffer to get rid of it. use the weight of the buffer and dont apply any more pressure n itll come up a treat. with no metallic paints what happens is you take off a layer of paint in order to get a nice shiny finish again whwre as with metallic you are cleaning the laquer so use a heavier one like std tcut or G3. a mate had a red escort turbo n when he got it it was pink esp the mirrors n spoiler. the cloths he used to use were red, not with polish but withn paint but the car was like it was new.

im doing mine on saturday. it started with little leaks at the plastic connectors on the head. ive chased all the leaks and the water pump became the weakest link and does just that. it drips from the pulley side. what you need is a new pump. it is probable that the water pump impeller is worse for wear too so a replacement is all that you can do. you need to remove the alt, charger and swing PAS pump out of way. water pump is connected straight to the engine behind all these. you can see it behind the charger brakect next to the knock sensor. get 2 new seals, one for pump to engine and the other for thermostat housing. get a new thermostat too. id expect a expensive job if you aint doing it yourself as the labour costs will be quite large. i got my pump for a tenner and bout the same for the stat and seals. get a mate to fit the water pump while you are doing the red-tops 65mm and SNS doodah :D :D