GazzaG60

i got a full 2.25 stainless without cat. 2 boxes towards the back from jap-innovations custom made for car. The exhaust is the best fit ive ever had and doesn't catch on anything even fully loaded. Performance wise not sure. think std G60 exhaust is ok anyway. id say a few horses maybe 10 with the 65mm. a bit free'er than the standard and quite a bit more noisy

my caps of my RC's went about 4 months after i bought them. my first car, my scala 1.8i went missing on friday. the wankers took it on the back of a truck. im less than happy. :mad: :cry:

id be up for a stand on one of the days, preferably saturday. can get away when want on sunday then. Im gonna camp too. was great fun last yr. camp fires a plenty

no dont think the pipes fit a 91. it needs the longer throttle body hose i think

not sure. they aint the best design. get some ali ones made. it wont make that much difference on performance but will last longer. or get a FMIC if you got a early G60 theni got a set of eurosport polished pipes you can buy off me. they dont fit my 92 and i use a front mount anyway. i used the res box-ic one though as it fitted. mods i know this aint a selling thread but i wasn't going on a selling tangent just trying to help out. 50 quid if you want um and need um. i wouldn't buy new pipes unless needed. replace the service items like o2, Vac hose, plugs leads dizzy cap, knock sensor first better to have a good running engine than a good looking one.

pathc up thew boost pipe. remove the kink. G60s have a good chance at getting boost leaks due to the amount of exposed plastic pipes. check the pipe before the intercooler too on the square section behind the rad. Change the throttle cable. when stiff they struggle to hit the idle switch and WOT (wide open throttle) switch. the cable stretches. It s bad not to hit the WOT switch. this may starve your motor of fuel. Theres no throttle positioning sensor on a G60. just 2 switches idel and WOT. get a AF gauge in there to check operation. this clearly shows the o2 operation along with WOT and idle. its not that good at showing accurate fueling stuff but can help diag problems. If you are putting the boost gauge in permanently then tap in under the dash into the vac line to the clocks otherwise a temp one can be put on the front of the inlet manifold on one of the pipes. some have a capped point already. others need a t-piece.

no boost-get a gauge to test it. you should see 8-11psi on a std pully bad O2 probe-shouldn't effect WOT. stuck WOT switch-that should make it rich all the time but ok on boost. compression-get it tested.

try to bleed the system. if pressure returns for a short while its the cylinders. replace the slave first. mine was about 35 quid from ECP for original part. this is the trickiest one to replace. if that fails replace then replace the master. be careful with the brass line connections as they aint that strong. get a proper prake spanner type thingy

ive gone. full ss pipe no cat. stg 4 charger. induction kit FMIC 30# [email protected] SNS 5 chip 65mm pulley before i did proper power increase which are chip and pulley i did brakes suspension front engine mount and other running bits to try n get the car right first. ive noticed that since the 65mm etc that oil temps have gone up 10-15 deg. oil cooler next. im struggling to justify porting of the head etc. may go for a valve engine witha turbo and run digi 1 on it im of the opinion that a valve and glader dont go hand in hand

think its a bit off all or nothing with the phone. yuo see lots of people texting while driving which is a big no-no. supppose you cant ban text if you dont ban talk while holding.

usual dodgy c sunroof. more broken ones than workers.

mines better. if measured the charger to ic is now around a foot if the pipe is straight. The ui bend is soo big the flow is no issue so i have 1 foot of pipe comared with around 3 feet. before i had on std car as most do. res box-about 6 inches. hose about same and pipe about 2 feet before shit shiteing poor std intercooler it works for sure. also i can now. see engine mount. no need to remove fan or rad for anything. im on a pacet pro fan too which is around 8cm thick and 1668CFM i can get the oil filter off from the top by hand.

if you are runnnig a 2l then id expect you need lots of ufel to match the air. a set of red tops may come in handy and a SNS 5 chip our fuel pump is pretty weak though

i got my samco reducers from demon tweeks. around 14 quid get the ubend and fit a front mount

harvey has 2 cars i believe. it was the first uk over 500 and made 533 at well lane when i was there the other week. It doesn't boost till quite late but then its off with a bang. The work is all done by himself inc mapping. think he owns a enguineering company in scotland

how much is fairly cheap. im in need of a upgrade soon. did you get um from VW

the charger passes some oil all the time. it gets recirculated from the breather so.. id check it out. see how much is passing. get it rebuilt otherwise. boost levels are a good indication.

iid be a tad sceptical about chips of unknown origin. whos to say they havent only thown a bit of timing in to make it more perky. Have you had a wideband on it? it may not even have been programmed in a car

buy a filter big get a joining 3" piece connect filter to existing intake pipe. make a heatshield full length of engine bay and up to bonnet so its a shield and not just a piece of metal in the engine bay. go into the wing for more cold air.

the G60 dooesnt make power up top so you are wasting your time. whenthe torque drops off change gear. its not the ideal q mile car though is it. a mk1 G60 on a vr 1st n second would be nice.

i had my charger done by yabba 3 yrs ago. i had stg 4. they port but not a lot. they do a good build job though as my charger is still putting 15-17psi out on the 65mm 30k miles on. i know it need a rebuild or at least a check up. its time will come v soon. i was very happy with their service and customer care while i was there. i havent had a problem so i cant compain about after sales. I very much doubt the can match the customer service and knowledge of SNS on the G60 mapping/engine control front. Bilal Sam n danny know their stuff.

impreza is a good car. The yanks get the 2.5 in the new STi but we dont. Ive been in impreza's up to 400hp n thereis a vast difference between a standard one. look out for crank knock-full rebuild to fix. gearbox issues- weak box. drops seals over 320hp if not careful. handling is great though take a look at jap-innovations.co.uk they are mates of mine n i doubt there is a c in the country that could match their cars for pace. i got my exhaust for the corrado from them too weent to well lane with them last week. one bloke pulled 533hp took 5 peeps in it to keep traction. build quality isn't in vw league but repair bills are

ive used a few types. magnatec synta comma duckhams ive not seen much of a difference between them all. they all burn and go black eventually. there are some oils that can cause oil pressure issues and pressure does vary between them slightly but never had a issue with any of the above. some are cheap too (comma) im gonna try motal 15 50 or 5 50. my subaru mates use this stuff in their cars which run more boost. its been run in sunny GTi rs too which ive seen the oil from. it does seem to hold its colour lots longer whereas the 10 40 goes burnt lots easier. it is more expensive though. 15 50 motal was put into the gti-r which runs 400hp +nos and the day after it went to york dragway. pulled a 13.1 no nos. when it got back theoil was still golden so it must be ok on the razz. ill price it before i buy(cos im skint and tight) and let you lot know how i get on.

i suffer from same. i run 7.5x17 with 205 40 17. I was tempted to remove the liners but they protect the crank and water pump pulley and PS belt. a set of spacers may help or it may bring the fouling to the outer arch edge.

check your idle switch and for a vac leak. The idle switch is on the throttle body and should click when its engaged. check the throttle cable make sure it aint too tight or stretched. Check for a leak around the ISV. problems with it are hard to find. you can clean out the isv with brake cleaner. also check the idle screw isn't missing or v loose