tonedef

You gotta think 300kg's enough haven't you? Like you say it's the valver not the lardy old VR lump you've got in there!

Brilliant things, dead handy too as you can still move the car around when the engine's supported. Machine Mart sell them starting from £50+VAT

I'm needing a new boiler too but there's no way the Corrado will be going to fund it. Do a cash deal with the plumber's merchant for a new boiler, do the donkey work of the install yourself, get a Corgi registered to do the bit that the law requires (cash in hand Saturday afternoon if possible). Unless that is you wanna sell the Corrado anyway???

My dad bought a Skoda Superb a couple of years ago, full leather, lots of toys and a real nice car if you can get past the badge issue. It's only the 1.9 TDi but I got it chipped for him and it's pretty impressive, 80/90 uphill with his big caravan on the back is no problem :shock:

Got Sony Ericsson bluetooth kit in both the Corrado an the S3, both work fine for me! http://www.expansys.com/b.aspx?i=124493

Tucked underneath the big plastic hose between the MAF and the throttle body there's a tiny bleed nipple on the end of the master cylinder. Easiest if you take off the plastic hose as it just gets in the way. 6mm spanner required IIRC and all your long pedal problems should go away!

This is the one you're looking for Jimmi http://audi-sport.net/vb/

Jeez, I only dropped them at your house this afternoon and you've already broken it, I've got the heater box too if you've broken somehing major, let me know! I'd take you up on the £100 but as I'm away at work all week, Ange would be a little upset if I spent next weekend with your Rado in bits on my drive :lol:

These are knackered panels! Backwards into a tree still doing 90 or so, rolled down a bank and landed on it's wheels. We dragged it out of the field with a tractor. It didn't get fixed :lol:

My first car was a Beetle although it never made the road, not with me anyway as it was bought as a mistake (too much rust) when I was still 16 in 1980. I'm a biker at heart, guess that's why I got into Hillman Imps cos tuned they reved like bikes and you get addicted to the sound of 9,000+ rpm! After loads of Imps I had a Mini Cooper, classic but not as much fun as a 1040 Imp. I remember when the Mk1 GTIs came out and I was very tempted to go back to VW but my dad had a Cav SRi and I loved it so bought an Astra GTE Mk1. That got nicked and I tried to convince my wife we'd have a Mk2 GTI but she wanted another GTE so we got a Mk2. When she wrote that off (reads well doesn't it?) we had a Golf courtesy car and she was sold, the first Corrado, G43 KUH a blue pearl 1.8 valver was purchased within weeks, December 95. Bought my VR in 2000 and still have it, also had a few GTIs over the years and now I've got an S3. My daughter will be 17 this summer so there'll be a Polo on the drive for her soon. Does that make me a Dubber or just old?

Once cut the entire roof off a Hillman Imp just leaving the screen and some sharp edges, (after we'd welded up the doors in case opening one let it break in half) drove it out of the garage and it was bl00dy raining. Drove it around for a week without a single pull from plod, then drove it to the scrapper including the old roof thrown in the back with a couple of blocks and stuff. But a Corrado???

Doubt that, they had me!

Custom Cages list one, never seen one but they make the real stuff for motorsport. It'd be a weld in if that's what you're looking for. http://www.customcages.co.uk/cages2.htm

All Evos have a 4.5K service interval. It's not specifically for the engine although they do get a fill with fully synthetic at the same time, it's based on an oil change for the AYC active rear diff. It's a pig of a job that requires the use of the Mitsubishi only MUT2 tool. There's no vagcom available for Mitsubishis but when I was working on them regularly I made a kit up to plug into the rear diff loom which forced the pump and valves to bleed manually. They also need the major service at 45,000 when all the belts have to be done, again the cambelt is up to possibly more miles but there's a balancer shaft belt runs behind it that if it brakes tends to get snagged in the cam belt and takes that out too! That service will cost you about a grand from Mitsi. Bit like a G Lader really. Oh yes, and driven without care you may need a clutch between even oil changes, too many quick launches and it'll be slipping very soon. But none of the above would stop me buying one as they are a brilliant motor, capable of just about anything you ask one to do. Just don't stray far from the V Power!

Or do what I did and adapt a climatronic system to fit. These are fitted to lots of VAG cars so why not go the whole hog?

Welcome in! Bit like me really, I bought my 1.8 valver in December 95, swapped it in 2000 for the VR then joined the forum late last year, about 11 years late! I was an original member of CCGB though but let that lapse years ago, might rejoin if they let me keep my #058 membership :lol:

Result! Welcome to the club. Take no notice of them, they're just jealous, I know I am, mine cost me £13K :mrgreen:

A Lancer Evo 3 has 266bhp an 228lb/ft torque as standard. Before I bought the S3 I was looking at Evos but for me it would be a 7. The early ones are a more simple car and they also carry a lot less weight making them better in a lot of ways, however I was looking for something newer as I do lots of miles for work. Don't expect to be getting away from expensive bills if you go to an Evo though, I used to work for a rally team, my last season I was running David Higgins' works 8 MR in the BRC. I know my way round the car pretty well so it wouln't be too bad for me but we also had a couple of guys doing road cars in the workshop and some of the bills could be eye watering. Everything after the 3 has a 4,500 mile service interval, not sure what it is for the earlier cars.

Mine was lousy going into 1st, I often had to select 2nd and then have another try. Anyway, I was looking at buying a short shift kit and read the section about adjustment on the diesel geek website: http://www.dieselgeek.com/A3B4Corrvr6sidetoside.htm Didn't buy the kit but followed the adjustment procedure and and now it's sweet 8)

Of course if you need to top up to get home, any oil is better than none at all. Quantum Synta Silver from VW is the stuff to use, semi synthetic 10W-40 if you're looking for a grade.

Use a compressor, it's much easier as there's plenty of air to overcome any leaks, just keep your fingers out of the way :lol:

These are the parts I bought earlier this year for doing pretty much the same job, I did however do the work myself and that's normally the biggest saving of all!

Really? I thought S3s were 5x100, same fit as a C? They are, 100%, I own both and wheels would be interchangeable if my C didn't have 15"ers. I'm planning to buy a set of 17s to use as summer wheels on the C, winter on the S3 and get whichever of the three sets refurbed as needed!

I have to admit to looking at green or red myself but thought that rather than colour coding, they'd never be classic green so would most likely clash anyway. I agree about Corsas, just before I did mine I saw one where the calipers had obviously been painted through the spokes, one coat straight onto rust, looked great??? I had all four calipers on the bench, completely stripped and to me they look as good as I'd get for a few quid. Of course I could invest in a set of Brembos :shock:

Used the Halfrauds stuff on mine, cheap as chips and seems to be OK so far but it's only been back on the road about 6 weeks so time will tell. As everyone else says, clean is the main job, wire brush in the electric drill for most of it made the job bearable. Then get a couple of coats on following the instructions on the can. Red is the only colour for calipers though :lol: