tonedef

:mad: :mad: :mad: OK, maybe that's a little exageration but it failed on rusty brake pipes! A couple of the pipes from the bias valve and then the ones over the rear beam to the wheels need swapping, tell the truth I knew they would but I don't have the flaring tools and the garage floor was cold and the roof leaks a bit so it was wet etc etc. So I left it at the garage over night and we'll be sorted tomorrow. Thanks for all the nice comments anyway, I'm fitting a stereo in my mates 993 tomorrow so hoping to get a picture of that plus the Rado and the S3 on the drive at the same time, I'll post the results.

Couple of pictures, first time out of the garage in 10 months. Now I just need the MOT tester to be happy!

After nearly selling the Corrado when we took it off the road last March because we'd bought the S3 and then deciding to tidy it up a little, it's back. I just went for a sneaky spin around the village, still officialy on SORN and need to get MOT and tax tomorrow but I couldn't resist any longer. :twisted: Looks the part too, refurbed Speedlines, painted bumpers, body all clayed and polished, driver's seat repaired. Plus engine rebuild, new clutch and climate control thrown in for good measure, almost like having a new car. I'll post some pictures, tomorrow, tried now but it's too dark.

Just to offer an alternative opinion. I bought a cable from an Ebay seller in Germany, slightly more money than one from the States but I was sure of paying no duty that way. It's a serial cable but then I have a serial port on the laptop as I need it for work. Download of Vagcom 409.1 from Ross Tech is free, activation is $99, total price around £70 and I can connect to most VAG motors up to around 2004. Even without activation there are a lot of functions can be carried out so can be even cheaper?

Way back when I had my valver, some time in 96 I was in the dealers and they had two blue 95 VR6s, one a Storm, one not in the showroom. One had almost 40,000 miles on it, not sure which, but both had asking price £24,500 on the screen. When I swapped my valver for a VR6 a few years later and it cost me £13,000 I thought I had a bargain, no wonder I don't want to sell now is there?

That was my thought, if it drives OK missing that much weight I wouldn't be bothered looking where it came from!

The top sill as you're calling it is part of the front panel, all comes out together after the bumper comes off. As I said before, it is possible to do a rad without removing front panel, I've done it both ways but now would only do it by removing the front as it's a real ball ache without, just my opion of course. I used to work for a rally team and we always looked for the quickest way to do anything. 36 minutes for an Evo gearbox takes some practice :)

That's cheating :wink:

If I remember right, there's 2 M10 bolts (17mm socket) up through the chassis rail each side and a few self tappers holding the plastic guards on at each side. Plus you'll have to disconnect the wiring from lights etc. Front panels mainly just headlights out then about six 6mm (10mm socket) self tapping bolts on each side plus a couple more in the centre behind the front bumper. Top rad brackets and it's away.

SCAM- Read exactly the same email posted on another forum a few weeks ago. Same text word for word.

I had 10x6 white Weller 8 spokes on me Mini. Bloody hell that were a long time ago!

Checked mine last week, the fan cut in at 86 degrees so you're in company :)

This might be a really stupid question but you are getting full throttle opening with the pedal pressed right down aren't you???

In one episode they take a new motor out to the desert and Mike talks about last time he was there he had a big accident and had to be airlifted to hospital. His face is all made up with plates and he was only just starting to get some movement back. Not sure when they were filmed but as Blue_Joe said, you also see him working for Foose so maybe he had too much of Dwayne too!

But due to the big accident he had it left him with no muscles left in his face IIRC so you can't really comment one that!! I realise that and I'm not knocking him for it at all, it's not just his face anyway, his voice is the same and everything, him and bluebear were real chalk and cheese.

You gotta say that Boyd and Dwayne possibly skipped people skills lessons, I'm surprised anyone stays there to take that type of abuse. Foose has so much talent, the drawings he produces, awesome! Mike's the best, I know he had some big accident but have you ever know anyone with less expression?

I recently rebuilt my motor with a Sharan HG and no skim, it didn't seal as I had a gas leak by number 1 cyl. Took it to bits again and there was no obvious reason for the leak but had it skimmed and this time used a Corrado gasket, everything's OK now. I don't believe the Sharan gasket was at fault, I just wasn't brave enough the second time! Anyway, a simple clean up skim of .008" cost me £28.44 inc VAT which compared with head bolts, gasket, stem seals etc was not much money. If you're doing a gasket, have it skimmed for peace of mind.

You have to say they're not too good at figuring out the wheel sizes! X2B = national sales program Great Britain B0N = component parts set, complying with vehicle type for Great Britain, various parts C5K = alloy wheels 9J x 19 G0C = 5-speed manual transmission H1V = TYRES 205/50 R 15 V J1L = battery 280 A (60 Ah) Q1D = sports front seats 1AE = electronic differential lock (EDL/ABS) 1G9 = space-saving spare wheel for temporary use, radial tire (5-hole) 1MV = leather steering wheel 3AE = outer right rear view mirror: flat, powered, heated 3BF = outer left rear view mirror: convex, powered, heated T6Q = components for, base engine, unit 021.D 3FD = electric sliding/pop-up sunroof 9BA = without additional electric safety package 9HA = without additional malfunction display 9C2 = without special low beam mode but with "coming and leaving home" function for ROW" 8GD = alternator 90A 8RL = six loudspeakers (passive) 8TD = rear fog light for driving on the left 4A3 = seat heater for front seats separately controlled 8BF = halogen headlight for driving on the left 8WD = integrated front fog light 1BA = standard suspension/shock absorption and the S3 E0A = no special edition 7A0 = without CD changer/CD player 4UF = drivers and front passenger airbag with front passenger airbag deactivation 6XD = outer rear view mirrors: powered, heated 5SJ = outer left rear view mirror: convex 6TS = outer right rear view mirror: non-spherical, large viewing field 1KF = disc brakes, rear J1L = battery 280 A (60 Ah) 1LT = disc brakes, front 1AT = electronic stabilization program (ESP) 3FE = electric slide/tilt sunroof with sun screen/sunblind 1JF = rear sports shock absorption G21 = front shock absorption 5TL = decorative inserts in piano lacquer 7X0 = without park distance control 4R1 = power windows F0A = no special purpose vehicle, standard equipment 0L2 = electric throttle actuation 8GL = alternator 120A 0G4 = cable gearshift 0YP = weight category rear axle weight range 13 L21 = suspension range 21 T6B = components for, base engine, unit 06A.G 3NC = rear seat bench/backrest, split folding 8JJ = headlight with gas discharge lamp for driving on the left U1B = instrument insert with mph speedometer, clock, tachometer and trip odometer X2B = national sales program Great Britain 1N4 = power steering 2PL = leather trimmed sports steering wheel for airbag system with "S" badge" 8Q2 = automatic headlight-range adjustment static 9Q2 = multi-function indicator/on-board computer with check control 8Z5 = engine cooling system, type 1 MK1 = 4-cylinder turbo gas. engine 1.8 L/154 kW 20V appendix EU 3, base engine is T6B 7Q0 = without navigation device C4F = alloy wheels 7 1/2J x 17 "S" offset 32" 4X3 = side airbag front with curtain airbag 6R2 = leather gearshift boot 3L7 = electric height and backrest adjustment for both front seats 4K4 = radio remote controlled central locking operated from inside and separate trunk release 5D1 = carrier frequency *** MHz 1SA = without additional engine guard 0GE = emissions concept EU 3 Q1E = Recaro sports seats, front QG1 = service interval prolongation 4GP = windshield tinted with sun band and viewing window for vehicle identification number

Fair enough, was trying to picture it without going into the cold to take a look!

I don't mind being wrong here but surely the intake temp will remain the same as that's measured at the MAF? Or is there another inlet temp measurement. It would only prove anything if you could actually measure the temp at the runner.

Voted!

A few years ago I was arguing with my wife and slammed the hatchback down on my old valver so hard that I smashed the glass! Took it in to have it swapped expecting to have to pay, turned out I was covered. Checking your cover first might be an idea though. :wink:

Snap On make special tapered splined sockets for this job that when used with an impact gun will take most studs out. Any tyre place will normally have them.

Did mine without taking the front panel out, took me 6 hours, a real nightmare! Then I saw how the front panel came out, reckon you'd do it easilly in half that time. Grill off, headlights out, bumper off, front panel out and it's there in front of you.

Can I get a bacon and egg sandwich instead?