John-M

Had a peep around the fuse area - I have at least 4 wires with connectors that are just hanging there. One is a yellow female connector with yellow wire - cant really tell where it goes till I drop the fusebox of its hinges again. Any chance of posting a photo of what the connector looks like ? Then I'll see if I can match it to anything ... ...

I know fuse box wiring is a nightmare, having just completed a long-running diagnosis of a live wire that was going to earth :( Cab you tell where the red/yellow wire heads off to ? I'll have a peep around mine again, as its still uncovered !

Thanks for the info :) Power windows and Central locking - I found it was all connected via common live feeds. Isolating the module in the door restored P Windows and C Locling, but Remote Locking is still defunk - hopefully addressed by this new module. Door card currently off, and progressing with removal/replacement of this module

Anyone ??

How many of you who have 24V engines fitted have also got one of DUBpower's 24V 6-branch comversion manifolds fitted ? I'm considering getting one, but seem to remember that some ppl had experienced problems with fitment, knocking etc ( tho I cant find the threads now ). My 24V C is my daily/only car, so I really can't afford to have problems - I want it, as much as possible, to be 'fit and leave'. Any opinions/experience welcomed :)

I need to replace the Central Locking vacuum module in the driver's side door - looks easy enough to remove, but is there anything particular that I need to be aware of ? I'm think especially about the vacuum/air pip - does this have to be 'primed' at all in terms of air-pressure ?? Or is it ok so long as the hose is a good fit ?? Any help/advice appreciated :)

After much searching and tracking 'live' wires - I have found that the vacuum module in the drivers door is to blame. Disconnecting the 4-wire plug from this unit has restored Central Locking and Power Windows :) All that is now non-functional is locking of the 'other' door by means of pressing down the lock button on the inside of either door, and remote locking/closure by means of my Clifford alarm fob. A replacement vac module will, hopefully, restore all to working order.

I'm now back from 'up north' I'll send a pm with delivery details etc - unless you'll be at GTi Inter this Sunday and we can meet up there ?? John M

Worst job, so far - tracking down an 'earth' somewhere that has knocked out my central locking and power windows. Currently I'm trying to track where a particular 'suspected' wire is going - way up behind the fuse/relay box. What a rats nest of wires up there !!!

I have to admit to not being totally sure, but the module behind the rear panal ( not in the boot ) is called the Power Windows Control Module - but I think that this and the locking stuff in the boot area do share some wiring :( I'm away for a week or so after last thing Saturday, so good luck - and post here any faults you find, please :)

Its on the top of the fuse box, left hand side. There looks to be space for 4 ( i think ) similar stand-alone fuses, but on mine just the one is in use. I think its a 20 amp fuse, biggy !

The fuse for the central locking / power windows is on top of the fuse-box, not part of the long line of fuses. On mine, this fuse blew and testing showed that the wire from this fuse was going straight to earth. Result: no power windows and no central locking. Still havent traced where the earth is ... ... diagnosis continues. Best of luck if you have to get into the power-window control module that lives behind the offside trim by the rear seats. It's a real pig to get into - and the big white connector does not, as far as I can determine, pull free from the module, even when you have extracted the circuitboard from the box :?

I only just noticed this thread :) Can confirm that mine was, I'm fairly sure, only the second conversion that PSI did. And back then it seemed pretty special. Now, with all the R32 conversions, turboed 24v cars, and talk of R36 transplants - it seemes quite tame. And, after 2 years or so, I'm STILL not used to the hair-trigger throttle - which makes it just so jerky around town. One of these days I'll pop over to Vince's and get it re-mapped to smooth out the response. Love the low-down tractibility of it tho - but it seems to lack the old urge at high revs that the 12v engine had. Now about that re-mapping ... ...

Janis Ian - At Seventeen. Brings back some memories :)

Paypal xfr completed - other details in PM :)

No sign of a pm showing payment requirements, Robert. Last one from you was the one asking if I wanted the last one. John M

Still interested :) John-M After checking the thread you were the next on the list to ask for one after fendervg. it seems i have an extra one as VW sent me one then order another 10 so i will end up with 11 and have sold 10 so let me know if you want it.. thanks Robert Yes, please. Let me know arrangements for payment :)

Still interested :)

Well, I discovered that the white connection does not come out. But there are two hinges holding the wires in - easily levered open. But ... ... The wires still won't come out. Here is a pic, very close-up, of the wires going into the white socket. You can see what looks like a wee locking tab - looked like if I levered that towards the wire it would release. But no. You can see the tab by the thin black wire fully home, and by the thibk red wire slightly moved. It moves all the way out of the little recess, but still doent free the wire. However, the wires seem to attach to a female connection which goes inside the little cage that has the locking tab, so it looks to me as if the wire, attached to the female connector should just pull out, But no. Click on the pic to see it bigger. Has anyone been able to remove these wires ?? Anyone ??

Try your local dealer then - at the very least they'll be able to tell you what's missing ... ... and the bits may still be available :)

What make of alarm is it ? A dealer/installer may be able to supply whatever is missing. In the meantime wedge it 'closed' so it doesnt keep giving false signals to the alarm.

When you stripped the caliper, did you clear out ant rust/dudt/grime from where the pads locate ? Often an area that just seemes to gunge-up, and needs to be clean for the pads to move ok. And how about the piston in its housing ? Is it free to move in/out ?

Me too if there are more than the 10 available :)

Thats what I would expect - but the damn thing seems v reluctant to budge, and I'm loath to try 'force' it !

Here is a pic of the Power Window Control Module, showing the black and brown connectors removed, and the white one which does look as if it is not removeble - but if that is the case, how is the damn thing replaced ? The wiring that goes into it is a long loom that runs down the length of the car back to the fusebox. And there is no sign of it having any heat damage.DSC00752.JPG[/attachment:of7kxd6b]