jamminvr6storm

Decide how much you want to spend, then you will have a better idea of the options available.

I would have to agree.... I went down the NA route first and its expensive for the gains you see.

Just looks like a boggo 24v / 4mo one to me although i could be wrong :lol:

Excellent.... Glad you got it sorted Nikki :D My 2p would have been the tensioner bolt after wearing a pad out in 1000miles :shock: Take it you got an O ring in the end then.... lol

How much water are you loosing and have you had the heater matrix done? If your loosing water then it must be going somewhere (unless its evaporating which would lead to excessive white smoke) so have you checked your oil for mayo? I have also seen VR's that leak a small amount of water from the side of the headgaskit (you can see this if you stand by the drivers wheel and look where the head meets the block...) All reputable garages will have compression test equipment and shouldn't charge too much to do this for you although with your symptoms i would have a sniffer test done also (thats the one with the liquid that changes colour if it detects exhaust gasses in your water)

Hi there... The compression test will not require the engine to be dismantled they will just remove the plugs as they test each cylinder. This should give a definitive 'extent of the damage' report... From what you have said i would just drive the car to you local garage of choice, slowly of course :lol: Good luck :)

I have noticed the blowers dont warm up as quick as they used to :lol: Its the lesser of 2 evils really tho as I'd rather have an engine that warms up slightly slower then one that runs over 120 degree oil temps, that said my water temps are over 70 degrees.... at least 95% of the time :lol:

I also used to see high oil temps (120+ at times) which were'nt helped much after fitting a BV head and high lift cams 8) I have a thermo controlled Mocal (13 row) which helped a great deal however I have found a low temp thermostat and fan switch now keeps mine below 110 even when giving it some stick :lol: I got them from Awesome GTI IIRC...

If it's a Mk4 R32 engine then it's a bargain, but I'd take what Storm say with a pinch of salt. They're knowledgable guys, but do have a tendancy to exaggerate quite a bit. If it's a Mk5 R32 engine, they're talking out of their backsides as it's FSI lump and needs a completely different ECU to run it, which doesn't yet exist apart from the factory VAG one. Thats not so good.... I definatley said a mk5 because Andy was telling me they make better power then the mk4's which is why i was seriously considering it for a while

hahahaha.... What a heap of sh!t :shock:

Blimey, this is some car! I think they have always cried out for 4wd especially with the addition of a little extra power... what management are you running the R32 on?

This is looking nice and tidy, those track shots look ace 8) The leather improves them in my opinion too

Early or late shape fan controls? Mine are late shape round dials and I had similar problems with the contacts on the blower module.

Im sure storm developments quoted me 290 ish with their emarald, at the time i was thinking its about the same as a vortech'd VR but better power delivery

So was I... :lol: Give Storm Developments a call, I have always found them very aproachable and usually very helpful. As I said it was some time ago when I spoke to them but I thought it was reasonable at the time, that said decent R32 lumps arent cheap!

I looked into this a while ago when I was offered a Mk5 R32 lump, Storm Developments have a ''off the shelf'' Emerald they have developed with Dave Walker. Andy at storm said to me just sit it on the mounts (you will need to plumb it in too) get the car to me and leave £1350 and he will do the rest :lol: I think you will also need an Alfa TB to get around the fly by wire throttle.

As above... Schrick inlet and 268's are the best bet, although to keep costs down just try the cams first cos if your head has been done propperly (again not saying it hasnt) then this *should* aid the cams at the top end. Thing is for the same money as the inlet and cams you can have a Vortech SC.....

I have heard these can be dry-cleaned as they sag a bit if you use too much water when cleaning. Never tried myself tho...

lol.... Buy a new plastic casing.... (just in case).... and give it a bit more 'persuasion' :lol:

4 Sure Si mate, Ive made a modification to mine to ensure it dont happen anymore.... 8) I'll have a butchers Sunday mate, good to see you on here..... now you have a Corrado :lol:

What engine fella ? I know with the VR you can see them weep from the head gaskit.... look to the left of the belt tensioner and follow the head / block join round to the back of the engine.

Not got solid engine mounts have you? they can cause this..... Good Job on the new lump fella :lol:

The ECU cover naturally has a groove running throught it which is designed to channel water toward the drain hole to the right hand side of the foliage tray. Make sure you dont cover the drain hole with the rubble sack so if water does get in it can still get out :) Oh and good luck !

Quite common for them to pack up.... although usually its the switch that gives up !!(or the metal L peice on the dial needs a tweek)

The fan blower is located behind the lower glove box tray (the lowest piece of plastic below the glovebox) The plastic guard thats hampering you is the ECU cover (in the scuttle) under this is the foliage grill and under that is a big hole where your blower sucks in cold air (if you look through the grill you can see the blower motor) maybe the ECU cover has split and is letting water through the foliage grill? I would silicone it to start with, this will let you know if its leaking from the bottom..... if it still leaks then its coming in through the grill itself.