dr_mat

The "driveshaft"? Near the REAR ashtray? :roll: Maybe you mean the rear axle beam? Most likely it's the exhaust hitting the rear axle. You say the car has been lowered... Check that first...

The VW tensioner is now "only" £60.57+VAT, so if in doubt it would seem a good idea to fit one of those... It's the price of two belts, after all... They should be in-line (as I'm sure you're aware!).

We already discussed this one, IIRC...

So you had the tow then.... ;)

Was the sunroof an option on the VR? I thought the sunroof, leccie windows, adjustable steering column (spit), MFA, heated seats were all standard. The only weight-increasing options were leather seats and air-con..?

They might have increased the ride height, but they did that for *all* the late cars, so it's more likely to do with decreasing the likelihood of losing the sump to speed ramps... (I doubt the 2.0 8v has an engine so heavy..) They also increased the track width and did a few other tweaks to the suspension for the VR6, but it was about countering the increased power/torque, rather than trying to "hide" the extra weight. C VR6 weighs about the same as the Civic TR, IIRC... No, you're right, I don't know how heavy a G lader is, but it *looks* heavy.. ;)

5x120? That's the biggest sticking point, think you'd need adapters. The VR was 5x100.

Yeah, but it's a very compact V, and it's no longer than a 2.0 4-pot, and it doesn't have a great lump of supercharger on the side! :) This has always been the myth (amongst G60 drivers, mostly): everyone assumes the VR6 is really heavy and that this kills the handling. Well it's not...

1210 kg, according to the manual. You might find it on the search on this forum, it's been discussed before.

I always knew Peugeots were good for propping up trees...

I think VW built-in a safety system anyway. If you use the front fogs too long, the glass cracks, so you get fined £140 a pair for replacements..

Front foglights were only ever supposed to be used to direct light down at the gutter/centre line, so you can pick out these important parts of the road whilst trying to drive in bad conditions. Anyone caught using foglights at any other time should get a ticket!! That's a nice bit of fog you got there... :) It's grim up north, innit! ;)

Thermostat housing and stat? Assuming they've not been done. With a blank cheque available I'd be getting the work done at Karmann, using brand new original parts all round.. ;)

That's what I hate about these cars (or rather the ecu). So many faults are not reported when I'm sure it should be easy for them to be. Yep, good points, and I agree. Unfortunately the knock sensor is one of the impossible to quantify ones. If electrically it's got a connection, but it's not picking up any knocking, does that mean it's failed, or does that mean the engine isn't pinking? Impossible to tell, without being able to artificially generate pinking (which I suppose would be possible, but not a good idea). But it would be good if we could read off MAF values, and so on. We can read off lambda values, but it's a little impractical when you're driving along, and OBD1 doesn't really give you enough bandwidth to get a decent granularity of reading anyway, unfortunately. Hey, imagine how tricky it's going to be to keep one of the current generation engines running when they're 10 years old and suffering all the same problems? Jeez, it will only get worse as they make the engines more complex.

100 degrees oil temp is normal, unless you've got an oil cooler. Or are you talking about water temp?

I wasn't trying to imply anything, just that it must be a mistake or something beyond CCGB's control.

Sorry, my question was directed at the original poster, skid...

Are you actually talking about "winter" tyres, or just "wet" tyres. There's a big difference. Lots of places in northern europe it's normal for people to have a complete set of spare wheels, usually a bit narrower, fitted with proper winter tyres. None of the examples above are winter tyres, just summer tyres known to be ok in the wet. They will all be crap in the snow, though!

Someone clearly forgot to pay the renewal for the site, or the service provider went awol.. Personally, for my £15 annual contribution to the coffers, I enjoyed free entry (for two) to the hillclimb event at Longleat, and saved over £40 on a bunch of spares using the club discount. The website was looking good, but it seems there's been a glitch.

Given that most people who can still call themselves "boys" don't have senior jobs in IT and therefore can't afford to run such expensive cars as these, I think it would be more appropriate to call us all "man racers". :) Or perhaps just "suckers"? ;)

I was under the impression that the originals were Beru. Whatever.. You got a bargain there, anyway..!

Unless ECP are selling genuine leads at a loss, they are not the same as fitted in the factory I'm afraid.. The BERU ends (not bremi) as used on the OE leads cost around £8 each, and that's before you add in the cost of the cable itself. Best price for not-genuine-but-OE leads I've found was about £65+VAT.

Bummer. :( That makes more sense though..

Hahaha! FYI the prices of the bits are about £298 + VAT (rear + centre) and ~£70+VAT (front box) but they'll probably be quoting 2 hours labour, which means another £200 at the dealer..

The replacement chains are PEANUTS, so if you've got the thing in bits, replace them.