dr_mat

That vac hose thing to the ECU seems to be the classic one... :)

Ok, given the number of variables here (your driving style, the weight you were carrying, the traffic, your average speed, the state of tune of the engine, the phases of the moon, the colour of the vicar's underwear when you were baptised and so on and so on..) it's difficult to say if that's right or wrong. Give us a hint!!

Oh, and to add to the confusion, sometimes GSF will sell you the SACHS part, sometimes the BOGE one - it just depends what they have in. But they are identical, and that's why they don't always specify. (The rear shocks from VW had the same SACHS part number stamped on them as the rear shocks from SACHS!!)

I have been informed by the people at SACHS UK that the BOGE (or SACHS) shocks supplied by GSF are *identical* in every way to the ones that were fitted on the car at the factory. I put great stress on this and they said "yes". The Bilstein ones at GSF I can't comment upon. Some people have claimed a difference, and I could be mis-informed, but I KNOW these companies were the original suppliers, and I have held in my hand a pair of VW rear VR6 shocks, and they *are* identical to SACHS gas rear shocks (as sold by GSF) - so my suggestion is to go to GSF...

And it's not a problem fitting gas shocks to a car that used to have standard ones - it's an "upgrade", if you like, but it doesn't make a lot of difference. Oh, and the OE supplier to the factory was SACHS, but BOGE are identical (made on the same production line).

They call 'em gas, but they all have oil in aswell. The ones not labelled as "gas" don't have gas, they *just* have oil. Clear as mud, huh? Try again: Standard shock: Just oil Gas shock: Oil with inert gas pressure on top. Gas shocks are better (but only in extreme situations), so they just call them "gas" to make the distinction.

They all have oil in. The VR6 had gas shocks alone. The gas is just there to prevent the oil from "foaming" under pressure.

Get 'im with his famous friends!! :roll: ;) Ok, it's only Mani from Stone Roses.. :)

I got a set of speedlines delivered to me for £10/wheel. You should be able to do it for about £30-40, unless your wheels are really heavy or you're delivering to the highlands...

I wuz gonna say - your VR was on ebay wasn't it?

Dodge Viper engine, anyone? Or maybe the 900+ bhp TVR V8? Now how would that work with front wheel drive?? :wink:

Just my 2p on the oil temp side - my VR will run it's oil temp to 110 - 114 at those kind of motorway speeds, always has for the two years I've owned it, and I refuse to worry about that aswell! Too much other stuff to fix!! Too right about the rattles - that's what gets you down. Mine needs a load of trim rattles sorting (did anyone come up with a cheap reliable way of stopping the windows rattling when open?!), but I just don't get the time. Too busy saving up for a steering rack or an ABS pump! (Hey, Asim! You still got that 2nd hand one?) I mean, I even have a badly rattly passenger seat adjuster knob?! How can *that* get loose?!

Ah, moving abroad, yeah, good point. It'd be nice to be able to keep it, but you really need a secure lock-up for that sort of thing. Seems a bit extreme to get rid for the sake of a few months away though..

Should come on at 92? I think? Definitely less than 100. But then your gauge could be reading high - you shouldn't ever be seeing 115!!

"Not keeping the Corrado much longer"?! What is this blasphemy?! Don't you know a Corrado is for life, not just for MOT time?! I must admit, the rust stuff you're having done surprised me - I always got the impression your car was pretty mint!!

Thank god you're not a woman, Kev...

But I agree with ya Jedi - I didn't wanna have a hole in my bonnet either, so I had the VT fitted, though I *was* considering having a NEW original mount fitted instead. Tom's bonnet was modified by a standard engine, which obviously implies a weak, old engine mount. But let's not rake over those coals again, shall we? Kev appears to be in a mood.. ;)

I don't remember having an argument, it was a contradiction. Perhaps I wanted to be in room 6, down the corridor?

I don't mind it not being a engine mount debate, but I'd like to see some admission on both sides that the case is not proven... I have admitted that - I mean I've even gone ahead and uprated the mount.. :) Did I *have* to? No idea, I'll never find out now, either. I should add that Vince at Stealth thought it was a "good idea" to uprate the mount. Recommended it, in fact.

I think you probably would, but other people around here would probably beg to differ... ;) It's a question of degree of control - if it hits the bonnet you will need to uprate the mount. If it doesn't, you don't.

Totally standard engine otherwise. Yeah, I went for a VT front engine mount in the end... Don't forget your bonnet mod aswell.. The Schrick is a big beastie. The VT mount *does* produce ever-so-slightly more vibration in the car (don't let Kev convince you otherwise), but it's pretty hard to tell and it's not a problem in any way. The car still feels achingly smooth and refined compared to ANY 4-pot on the road. :)

Depends on the age of the passat, I'm not sure but there could have been OBD1 passat VR6s. Most people have found that Schrick with standard chip means no problems - except when it gets *really* hot and humid. Like right now, in fact! Just a little bit of pinking, but you can easily avoid it. In cooler weather I've never experienced any issues.

If it's only got 6 leads it's the coil pack.. Oily black plug 6 can be for many reasons, head wear being the primary, bore wear being the secondary (and most expensive to fix :( ) - nasty smell well this could be anything. You might be burning a bit of oil, you might have an iffy CAT. Lack of power under 3k rpm - well they all feel a bit like this, but if it's noticeably less powerful at those revs than it used to be there may be a reason to be concerned. Bear in mind the current stupendous air temperature and humidity make these cars feel even more lethargic than normal! Rattley - well it's a VR6! They all sound a bit clattery to be honest. If it's particularly clattery then you're looking at the timing chains (off beat rattle at the gearbox end of the engine) or the tappets (noise from the head). Also bear in mind those stupendous temperatures I mentioned - they'll make the oil thinner and that will make the engine more noisy!

Yeah, not only the buckled boot foor, but a buckled slam panel at the front, too. No chance it'll be repaired... :(

Does the weird shaped holes in front of the driver not cause "chuffing" (ahem) at high volumes? That's why most bass ports have rounded edges to allow the air to flow without causing distortion.