dr_mat

We have heard rumours of people swapping the tensioner pad without getting access to the lower inspection panel, but you need to drill the old rivets out, and then rivet the new pad on, which is a complete GIT of a job, by all accounts. If you're doing it yourself, fine, spend the time, but if you're paying someone, it may be worthwhile just biting the bullet and dropping the gearbox - at least that way you KNOW what you're getting into. The guide rail, however, can be changed without removing the gearbox. These can break apparently (tho mine was fine at 118k miles). You will have to remove the intake manifold, yes...

This noise is the ABS self-test. Read your Corrado manual! ;)

No doubt you have to buy a whole tailgate from VW to get these bits! :lol:

Foam blocks?! :? I think I found out why my parcel shelf rattles like a barsteward.

From what I have read, the 16v are pretty easy to work on, and most parts are relatively cheap, compared to the VR6 at least. They should also be quite reliable on the whole, but I've not really had any experience of living with one, so can't really comment any further..

The castor can be slightly out, due to the placing of the lower BJ, I've been told. Or do the bolts run in grooves, thereby limiting it's front/rear movement?

I think, personally, that the majority of the detectable change when adjusting the steering column is "weirdness factor" - you're not used to it feeling like that, so it takes a while before you settle in and start detecting the problems again. Both myself and Kev found the same thing - initially a change of column position would help, but the problems would return shortly. And anyway - ball joints: £40 plus an hour labour, steering column: £630 plus several hours labour.

What about castor angle? And then sticky the thread? :)

My timing chains were Sachs, iirc.

But Phat does all his own labour, so he can do it for free...

They're captive parts, even Sachs, the OE can't supply the chains/tensioners. Buy from VW, they're warrantied for 2 years, don't even think about pattern. The only people who may be able to get OE for less are GPC...

How long does the head gasket and the crank last when a VR6 is pushing nearly 500 lbft?! I'm sure someone here can work out what the force exerted on the crank is from that..!

They *all* prefer cold air! Even us N/A boys.. (Though how you cen describe a Schrick-equipped car as naturally aspirated when it's pushing +6psi I don't know.. :) )

Steering probs - a few of us have been reporting steering probs that *may* be down to worn ball joints. Might be worth taking a look at some of the other threads kicking around on this. As for being over-sensitive it's a part of owning a Corrado I'm afraid!! I suspect you won't find a single person on this list who doesn't claim to be a little oversensitive to problems with their C! Fuel smell: yeah, well, they opened the tank access port, and almost certainly spilled a few drops (or more) of fuel into your boot. Don't worry about it unless it's overpowering, it'll go away after a while. It only takes a TINY amount of fuel to cause you to smell it quite strongly. But if you start getting headaches or feeling dizzy, STOP THE CAR and get out. (Preferably in that order! :) ) Oil temp - that seems VERY strange. I'd expect the oil to climb through 85 and then keep going up to 120+ if it's being driven hard, but I wouldn't expect it to drop much further than 90 or so when you back off, unless there's an after-market oil cooler on the car, anyway. Still, at least it's not stalling...!

It's fairly normal for the frame to twist if you're supporting the car on the sill jacking points. I'd have preferred to use some other chassis or subframe spots to support the car for an extended period of time tho! I'm sure other folks here with more experience can suggest the best spots to use...

What is the G60 knock sensor *for* if it doesn't retard the timing accordingly? Or does it throw in more fuel to try and compensate a little?

Just checked today - reset the MFA at constant 80 on the M4 (being overtaken by everyone!), and it goes to 35-37mpg in the VR6 :) Mind you, the cold start and the trundling in traffic means that overall the journey averages 25mpg.. :|

It seems that method is not thorough enough. Mine too... TWO separate places, along with an MOT tester have both attempted to find any play in my BJs with methods of extreme force. We will see soon if they are actually "ok", like everyone is insistent on telling me.. I'm convinced they're not!

I always used to find that I got 28-29mpg on a long trip somewhere, then 31-33mpg on the long trip back HOME the next day. And then I figured out that it was cos I had dragging rear calipers that freed up for the return journey...

We have to keep our club as excusive as possible. The terminology gives us plenty of opportunity for belittling newcomers, we like it like that... ;) I just booked to get my ball joints replaced by Stealth when it's in next month, so fingers crossed that works for me aswell as you, Kev! :)

Yeah, had a similar experience. Was looking for a cheap runabout Cavalier 2.0. Saw this dark blue one in Walsall (bad start) for £1700. It was tatty. Really tatty. Needed 4 tyres, new shocks, every panel was scratched, lots of loose/missing trim.. I went as far as starting it up, but the gear lever had so much slop in it, after waggling it and convincing myself it was in neutral I turned the starter... and the car jumped forward cos it was in third!! And these things have gear changes with metal connecting rods, no cable change sloppiness to blame there... I walked away and told the guy that he'd be lucky to get a grand for it in it's current state...

"Inboard BJs"? Whatchew talkin 'bout, Lewis?

Yes please, a locked, sticky thread with just the current part numbers and any other useful/relevant info would be a good idea. Maybe put it in the new idiot's guides section...? ;)

Personally I'm not that keen on the TT wheels on the C. I don't like the very flat faces, don't think it suits the C's lines that well. But then I like Speedlines, so what do I know? :lol:

Judder is usually more to do with the clutch or engine mounts, I think. Or at least, my VR was juddering very slightly (and has done ever since I got it), which has been removed completely by fitting a new clutch.